My wrasse is dead. Why?

[fixingstill]

It liked to hide in the sand but it always came out often. Last week we noticed a wound on the body and we thought it was bitten by the aggressive dottyback and it has been active, swimming, eating like nothing had happened. 3 days ago, it disappeared. Today we found its body half buried in the sand. This is the wound and there is some white stuff in the gill.

What killed it? What is that white stuff?

Yesterday we also discovered our blue hippo tang has white dots on it. ICH!

Damn it, it is so much work to keep a saltwater tank running. I have not even gotten any corels yet.

This tank is one month old. BIO-Spira helped speed up the cycling, or so I thought. The water parameters are ok. Ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 20...

Next I have to deal with the ICH with Kordon ICH Attack.

 

[Dr. Reef]

i am sorry for the loss, but u need to slow down. read read and read more.
this is all too fast and quick and things u have mentioned are untraditional. there are good forums.blogs here for ridding ich. please go through them they been proven methods.
good luck

 

[rtparty]

Agreed with above. You are adding way too much and way too fast.

What size is your tank? What size sump? Skimmer? What power heads for flow? What other forms of filtration do you have?

A couple pictures of your setup will help us immensely

 

[ali1]

Kordon wont solve your ich problem. Read the disease section. There's a thread on ich almost every half hour.

 

[fixingstill]

I know it was fast. My 6 yr old daughter really wanted Nemo and Dory and those damsels are cheap.
I have a 65 gallon (30 inch tall) tank. Sump is 20G. Apex 2016. GFO and carbon reactors. dry rocks. live sand. 3 powerheads (more flow than enough I think). SCA 301 skimmer. 2 filter socks. RO DI. Chaeto + light. Float valve for evaporation refilling from RO.

Now with the ICH treatment, I have the reactors and skimmer off. Hope Dory will pull it thru.

 

[fixingstill]

 

[fixingstill]

Kordon wont solve your ich problem. Read the disease section. There's a thread on ich almost every half hour.

I know people take all the fish out into a QT, dip them in freshwater, copper treatment, etc... I also know stress will weaken their immune system, moving them to QT might get them sicker. I could not even catch one fish with my net. The rocks are cable tied on to PVT pipe and the fish all hide behind. Kordon is slower but I don't need to setup a QT and catch and move the fish. Copper might have permanent effect on fish and I have some cleaner shrimps, a few snails and anemones. I chose to try Kordon.

 

[Rlyman1]

I had a similar experience... when i first set up my tank I watched the cycle very carefully and after five weeks I added a pair of clowns, a duncan coral, and a torch coral. Both clowns came down with Ich and died within a few days. I then set up a second tank to use as a quarantine for new additions while I left the display fallow for 10 weeks for the ich to subside. Definitely slow down, your looking at at least 10 weeks before you can safely add new fish. A quarantine tank is your best friend and Kordon Ich attack has mixed reviews. Best to remove fish and follow a tank transfer method

 

[AboutAcans]

The thing looks fine to me outside of what could be considered a slightly distended abdomen. I don't know if you recently switched foods, or additives, or if the thing was consuming something odd, but it almost looks like it died from an intestinal blockage. Can't guarantee any of this, cause the thing isn't in front of me, but I'm just saying IMO it looks like intestinal distress. Maybe I'm missing something, but I see no signs of ich. Just looks like some sand stuck from the slime coating likely due to the excess stress of whatever happened. I mean if I look at the Pectoral Fin on the thing I see absolutely nothing that looks like ich.

 

[JohnnyHildo]

Hope Dory will pull it thru.

hate to say it but even if "dory" pulls through this issue i don't suspect it's going to last long in a 60g tank and neither is that yellow tang.
honestly, i get that you've spent all this cash to get things going but knowledge > continuously throwing money at your tank to fix things you don't understand to begin with.
the 72 day fallow period you're going to end up going through is time you should use to figure out how to keep water and the do's and don'ts of this hobby.
best of luck.

 

[ali1]

I know people take all the fish out into a QT, dip them in freshwater, copper treatment, etc... I also know stress will weaken their immune system, moving them to QT might get them sicker. I could not even catch one fish with my net. The rocks are cable tied on to PVT pipe and the fish all hide behind. Kordon is slower but I don't need to setup a QT and catch and move the fish. Copper might have permanent effect on fish and I have some cleaner shrimps, a few snails and anemones. I chose to try Kordon.

Ill repeat... kordon is not one of the 3 methods used to eradicate ich. Simply adding chemicals to your tank is putting your water chemistry out of wack. Also adding the wrong fish to your sized tank is causing more stress than anything else. Tangs in your tank is a no no. Petco would love you.

Oh well, keep wasting your money and killing mother nature.

 

[chrisfont23]

I have had an ich outbreak twice. Both times, I did nothing. No chemicals. No hospital tank. Nothing. Call me lucky, but I haven't lost a fish after it ran its course.

 

[MrNurse]

My 6 yr old daughter really wanted Nemo and Dory and those damsels are cheap.

:headwally:

 

[billdogg]

I have had an ich outbreak twice. Both times, I did nothing. No chemicals. No hospital tank. Nothing. Call me lucky, but I haven't lost a fish after it ran its course.

Then you got lucky. Be forewarned that your tank HAS Ich and all your fish are carriers. Many tanks are in a similar situation I'll bet.

I choose to have an Ich free system. The ONLY way to do that is through proper QT procedures, the least stressful of which is TTM.

To the OP:
Kordon Ich Attack is worthless in eradicating the Ich parasite. It does turn your water a pretty color so you think you have actually done something however. I understand the desire to satisfy the desires of a 6yo, but this is one instance where your rush to happiness will backfire, and in a big way. Your tank is nowhere near big enough for either tang, and even if it were they were introduced entirely too soon and are therefore pretty much doomed. Thank, in part, the LFS that sold them to you. They knew (or should have known) better.

As mentioned above, your only real choices at this point are to either set up a Hospital tank for the fish that are suitable for your system and allow the DT to remain fallow (fishless) for a minimum of 72 days, or return the survivors to the LFS, but you will need to remain fallow for that period. You can then restock with appropriate creatures for your system so that they stand a chance at survival. The other choice is to stay on your current course and be prepared to explain to your little girl why everything keeps dying.

There is a wealth of very good information on this site - go to the top of this forum and read all the stickies. Then read them again.

We would all like for you to succeed in this endeavor, but the most important thing you must learn is patience.

Nothing good happens fast in this hobby!!!


Please keep us updated so we can help along the journey!

 

[Preble]

Ich? Sounds more like stress
You need to slow down, and just focus on keeping your fish alive at the point. You're about to have a spike when your tank cycles. Better invest in some seachem prime.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[fixingstill]

We would all like for you to succeed in this endeavor, but the most important thing you must learn is patience.

Nothing good happens fast in this hobby!!!


Please keep us updated so we can help along the journey!

Thanks for all the honest comments. I will keep your guys posted. If I forget and someone wants to know even years down the road, please ask.

 

[fixingstill]

Ich? Sounds more like stress
You need to slow down, and just focus on keeping your fish alive at the point. You're about to have a spike when your tank cycles. Better invest in some seachem prime.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ammonia and nitrite are zero. Nitrate about 20. It has been like that since about a week after I used BIO spira and ghost feeding for a week at the beginning. I will nevertheless continue to test the water while running the double dose Kordon treatment.

 

[ali1]

Ammonia and nitrite are zero. Nitrate about 20. It has been like that since about a week after I used BIO spira and ghost feeding for a week at the beginning. I will nevertheless continue to test the water while running the double dose Kordon treatment.

This guy.....

 

[Flaring Afro]

You should have bought her some plushies. You need a tank 4 times the size for a blue hippo.

 

[fixingstill]

This guy.....

I understand your suggestion of not using Kordon because it does not work. I also heard mix reviews about that. I do understand there are more pros here on this forum and I really do appreciate the comments. Yet, I do not have space, time, equipment and money to setup a QT. I certainly do not have a fish room. Some people say copper will hurt fish permanently and the move will give them stress and hence lower their immunity to fight ICH. I also had a hard time catching the fish with a net and do not want to tear down the tank rock work. I have read the docs on Kordon Ich Attack and decided to give it a try. I started it 3 days ago and even you suggested it is a waste of time, I prefer to continue to see how it goes.

Thanks for your honest comments. Maybe I don't even have ICH or I will get lucky. Dory had white dots on its body 3-4 days ago and now the "white" is gone but still has dots. I will see. Thank you.