Myka's 69 SPS Tank 2015

Thanks to Scythanith for giving me some Potassium phosphate! I also have my own Sodium nitrate. Lastnight I dosed 0.02 ppm PO4 and 1.5 ppm NO3.

Since removing all the fish for minor Ich treatment just after Christmas, and only putting 4 back into the tank, nutrients have totally bottomed out. Before removing the fish NO3 and PO4 were undetectable, but thanks to Pohl'z Xtra dosing, colors were looking pretty good. Now the tank is in bad shape (nutrient stripped) even though I'm feeding the 4 fish about 5 times a day all they can eat. Hopefully the NO3 and PO4 additions will help.

I have 3 fish in QT right now too. Another 2 weeks before adding them.
Good luck with the treatment! I've had a similar experience in my smaller tank removing fish for QT and having nutrients bottom out. I went with Sodium nitrate and Brightwell's neophos. Acros are suffering some from nutrient depletion it's amazing what fish will do for coral.
 
Are you still using you CO2 scrubber Mindy? Do you have a picture of its set up please?

Thanks

Bülent
Yes I am.

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Thanks Mindy.I got the idea. You bought a CO2 adaptor for TLF reactor.

What is the internal diameter of the tube you are using?

Does this set up not reduce its air intake potential of your simmer, thus affecting its performance?

Is there any other way a CO2 scrubber may be used?

Thank you.

Bülent
 
Thanks Mindy.I got the idea. You bought a CO2 adaptor for TLF reactor.

What is the internal diameter of the tube you are using?

Does this set up not reduce its air intake potential of your simmer, thus affecting its performance?

Is there any other way a CO2 scrubber may be used?

Thank you.

Bülent

There's how iv'e done mine Bulent if you looking for different ideas.
RO cannister/water filter housing with inserts.3/8 tubing running back to the skimmer where it matches into some rubber tubing coming off the air intake.

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Good luck with the treatment! I've had a similar experience in my smaller tank removing fish for QT and having nutrients bottom out. I went with Sodium nitrate and Brightwell's neophos. Acros are suffering some from nutrient depletion it's amazing what fish will do for coral.

Yesterday I tested the tank mid-afternoon. After two evening doses of NO3 and PO4 here's my results:

SG 34 (normally 35)
Ca 420 ppm (Salifert)
KH 7.7 dKH (Salifert), 7.55 dKH (Hanna) (higher than usual, I'll watch it, but leave it alone)
Mg 1320 ppm (RSP)
K 430 ppm (Salifert test kit reads 60 ppm higher than last Triton test so not sure what's right???)
NO3 0.5-1.0 (Salifert), 0.25-0.5 ppm (RSP)
PO4 7 ppb, 0.02 ppm (Hanna ULR)

So last night I added NO3, but I didn't add any more PO4. I'll check tonight and see if that PO4 got used up before dosing more. I definitely want to take the PO4 increase very slowly. I haven't had much for algae in the tank besides that burgundy turf algae and the weird tufts of very tough green algae that have been there since day one (bubble algae is mostly gone). Yesterday was WC day though (it had been two weeks), and I noticed a significant green cyano bloom. Usually I see some green cyano if I leave the tank 2 weeks between WC, but this was a lot more than usual. I'm assuming the PO4 additions have spurred this. I'll keep an eye on it.

Thanks Mindy.I got the idea. You bought a CO2 adaptor for TLF reactor. What is the internal diameter of the tube you are using? Does this set up not reduce its air intake potential of your simmer, thus affecting its performance? Is there any other way a CO2 scrubber may be used? Thank you.

Bülent

Hi Bülent. Yes, I use the TLF adapter, works well. Hose is 3/8" inside diameter. I expected the addition of the reactor to restrict air into the skimmer, but the water line doesn't move when I connect/disconnect it. Odd I thought.

I've not seen a different way to hook up the CO2 scrubber. I've only ever seen them hooked up to the skimmer air intake. I don't see a reason to not do it this way - it works well. :)

Sorry, I see my photo is HUGE! Not sure why Tapatalk did that.

I meant to take photos of my corals last night to compare after doing the NO3 and PO4 for awhile, but I forgot to. It's been awhile!
 
I went to read the page 6 article and guess what - turns out it's page 6 to page 9.......... 4 pages i had to read Mindy, think i cracked a retina........ :uhoh3:

Great article and stunning little fairy wrasse Mindy, very cool reading articles written by reefers i know :thumbsup:
 
Cool write up Mindy .....See you have a femininus there, Been debating with myself about one for awhile & after watching a vid that had one swimming around in Sunjays tank finally pulled the trigger & ordered one in. I just don't want another wrasse like my red coris that likes to try put the substrate mid air frequently so the sps gets sand blasted.That one in the vid seemed like she wasn't that sort of a problem so hoping they aren't that way inclined,my other tamarin don't go near the substrate much.
Hows your femininus in that regard?
 
I went to read the page 6 article and guess what - turns out it's page 6 to page 9.......... 4 pages i had to read Mindy, think i cracked a retina........ :uhoh3:

Great article and stunning little fairy wrasse Mindy, very cool reading articles written by reefers i know :thumbsup:

Haha, sorry Andrew! It's a short article even!

Nice wrasse you have there Mindy!

Thanks Geeray, I'm quite fond of Johnny.

Cool write up Mindy .....See you have a femininus there, Been debating with myself about one for awhile & after watching a vid that had one swimming around in Sunjays tank finally pulled the trigger & ordered one in. I just don't want another wrasse like my red coris that likes to try put the substrate mid air frequently so the sps gets sand blasted.That one in the vid seemed like she wasn't that sort of a problem so hoping they aren't that way inclined,my other tamarin don't go near the substrate much.
Hows your femininus in that regard?

Hey 2una, I do not have a femininus. Most of the photos in the article are by Hunter Hammond. Those are his fish. The only pic of my wrasse in the article is the one with my hand. Johnny is too fast for me to get pics of. I took over 600 photos trying to get pics for the article, and I failed for the most part.

Here's my best picture of Johhny from January 14th:
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Hey Mindy, nice write up!
That's one seriously conscientious QT process.
Stunning photos as well!

Hi Matt, mostly not my photos. :) I don't like disease in my reef, so QT is a must.
 
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I took a bunch of photos last night. The photos have a yellow hue that is not seen in person. The white balance was off, so colors aren't quite right...

Most of the following corals are new to me, so are still adjusting and changing colors quite a bit.


Got this one in Feb. LFS ordered me a blue Echinata from a wild Aussie supplier, and this showed up.
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Blue mille
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This I've had for a number of months now. Maricultured piece.
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The one on the left is a green tabling piece that is getting the boot. The one on the right is tenuis I got from another reefer in mid-Feb right in the middle of the dosing pump disaster.
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Nice blue Tort I got last fall has finally woken up and put out a couple growth tips at the base. Unaffected by the dosing pump disaster. The yellow hue you see in the pic is just from my wacky white balance - it is a true blue in person. Very pretty.
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Got this mariculture piece a couple days ago because of the pretty tips. I'm hoping the base doesn't go green, but I think it probably will and then I'll have to get rid of it. Andrew will tell me it's ugly. Haha
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This one is supposed to be an Oregon Tort that I got in mid-Feb during the dosing pump disaster. It didn't seem to mind either. Seems to have a green hue that I thought Oregon Tort should never have. Everything turns green in my tank though, so I don't know what to think about it. Ha.
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This I got a couple days ago too. There were bigger pieces - looks very stag-ish. I was looking for a nice blue stag, so hopefully this is it. The fragged piece looks like an austera though with those purple polyps. Hmmm.
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Sunset mille
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Maricultured tenuis I got about a month ago. It had pink hues in it when it was first imported and looked a lot like a pseudo-Home Wrecker. I'm interested to see how it turns out. I have it under PAR of about 400. Base is just starting to encrust.
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Oh, an update on the NO3 and PO4 dosing...

NO3 is about 5 ppm right now
PO4 4 ppb, 0.01 ppm (tested this morning before lights came on)

So for now I've stopped NO3 dosing, and I'll monitor it and figure out the daily dose I need to maintain 2-5 ppm. PO4 I've been dosing just under 0.02 ppm every evening. This has caused a green cyano outbreak, and I'm hoping over time this will subside, but for now it's sucking all the PO4 out of the water of the end of the day. Grrr...

Still dosing 3 mL Pohl's Xtra every evening after lights out.
 
So a couple months ago I put a frag rack in my tank for an hour to hold some frags off the sand that I was taking in to the LFS so I could vacuum the sand during a WC. Well, I managed to put an 11" scratch into the side pane of my tank from sliding the stupid rack. :facepalm: About 4" of the scratch is very noticeable, the rest is very minor. However, it's right slap in the middle of the pane, and the side is my main viewing pane from the couch. I have been seething. :angryfire:

I decided I "need" a new tank now. I can use this "opportunity" to make a few changes to the system that have been bugging me. First, the weir overflow is about 5/8" shorter than I would like it. I'd like the tank to be fuller. Second, the gap in the weir is too big, and fish go through it. Third, as much as I really like the clean look of the coast to coast black glass false wall overflow, I think I'd prefer that space inside the tank. Fourth, I currently have little gaps in the rounded screening corners for the powerhead lines to go through, and I don't like this. By going with a traditional corner overflow with built-in return the display area goes from 36x21x21" which is 69 gallons not including glass displacement or actual water height, to 36x24x21" which is 79 gallons (before deducting the corner overflow area which is about 3 gallons). The overflow will be approximately 9x4" which gives me enough space for the 1" Herbie-style drains and the 3/4" return. There are (3) 1.5" holes in the euro-bracing to accommodate black plastic grommets normally seen on office desks which I'll use to pass the powerhead wires through.

New design:
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This is the current tank design. It does currently have the one-piece euro-bracing, but my drawing ability was not able to show that. There is also a single 3/4" hole in the euro-bracing at the back center where the return line comes over the back and through the euro-bracing.
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You can see the screen/wires and return line here as well as the really low water line.
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I am having a very very hard time getting my phosphates off 0 with the hanna ulr so I think I am gonna have to add P04, how are you doing this and how much?
 
Mindy, you have made your argument and made it well. I concur. Your 'need' for a new tank is REAL!
Concept has built a few tanks for people out this way and I have only ever heard good things about them.
I like the design. Larger tank volume and better depth.
Now, about a couple of those corals.. I want them! That Aussie 'blue' tennis would make me kinda happy if it turned out how yours is. It's cool
I am Jack's total envy (sorry, was watching fight club lately) for that blue and white tort. Just stunning.
Still love that pale yellow deep water as well. And the 'Oregon tort' is actually really pretty as well.. whether it's a true OT is debatable but I still want it!!
What's your current status with AF?
 
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