N/P reducing pellets (solid vodka dosing)

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Bluereefs that looks like some pretty good stuff you've got mixed there. Wish I lived near a location where I could get a wide variety of fresh food like that. In regards to the aiptasia, I'm culturing berghia. Culturing the berghia is much easier than culturing the aiptasia to feed them. I'd love to have some overgrowth of aiptasia!! LOL!! As silly as it sounds, getting aiptasia to reproduce and grow fast when you want them to is harder than it sounds. Of course when you're dealing with an aiptasia infestation in a reef tank (and don't have berghia waiting to eat them they seem to grow and reproduce faster than any other living animal.

Just got word from Bulk Reef Supply that they are looking into getting a source of pellets and selling them in bulk. This eliminates the cost we pay to the person who gets them, packages them with an indication of aquatic application, then sells them to places like Premium aquatics and Marine depot who then sells them to us. Unfortunately Brandon didn't have a price or timeframe of availablity yet.

In talking with Jeremy Brower from Premium Aquatics, it seems that Premium Aquatics isn't currently aware of any specific manufacturer to be able to provide them in bulk (and remove the cost of the middle man) but he indicated if they find a manufacturer they would consider selling them in bulk.

Jeremy
 
Hell, I was thinking about ordering a box of these http://biodegradablestore.com/pp/Utensils/corn_hw/pp_corn_plastic_forks_C_P.html
and throwing them in the sump up stream from the skimmers. Since I'm running passive anyway (no reactor) I couldn't see how it would hurt, and it would be a helluva lot cheaper per lb than BP's.

DJ

Heck yeah!!

From your link

Made from 100% corn, our biodegradable corn utensils fully compost in 45-60 days.

This from your link clearly indicates that they are PLA

Eco-Products certifies that all corn-based products (PLA) are stored in our temperature controlled warehouse.

From the carbon source link I posted earlier.

Polylactic Acid (PLA):

Information:
Basically these are degradable plastic (polymers) derived from corn starch and sugercanes. (Reference #2)

In fact we've a reefer here on RC who'd DIY'ing these polymers from corn starch. (Reference #3)

Studies on waste water processing have shown that PLA with corn starch at 10% weight content receive the best nitrate reduction effects. (Reference #1)

PRO:
- Commercial PLA are relatively cheap.
- Can be DIY from corn starch with some effort.

CON:
- Slow decomposition rate (Reference #4), meaning it could take just too long for the starch to be released from the polymer form into the water.
- Not much information on how effective PLA can be use to control NO3/PO4 in reef aquariums.
(Again please share your story with us if you've successfully used PLA as alternative biopellets)

Sounds like PLA may not be the most efficient polymer and there is limited research on the aquarium use thus far, but somebody will give it a try at some point. I guess I'd try this before I'd put a bag of rice in my tank. Interesting that the link you posted indicates a full decomposition in 45-60 days. If you look at the reference #4 link (listed below) it indicates a decomposition rate of less than 90 days only in a "controlled composting environment". I think the decomposition rate of all of these different polymers are what will determine the amount of organic carbon they release and how fast they release it.

Hmm. I wonder how many forks for a 420 gallon tank??? LOL!!

I looked at the reference site #4 (http://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/plastic.html?c=y&page=1) and found this.

At the NatureWorks plant in Blair, I don a hard hat, earplugs, gloves and protective eyewear and swear that I will snap no photographs.

I did get a chance to see and touch the obscure object of my desire when some liquid PLA, with the color and shine of caramelized sugar, burst from a pipe and solidified in flossy strands on the steel-grated floor. The next time I saw the stuff, in a box in a warehouse, it had been crystallized into translucent white balls the size of peas: PLA resin. In the hands of fabricators, the pellets would be melted and reshaped into containers, films and fibers.

Sounds very similar to the description of our NP pellets. Maybe I'll try contacting NatureWorks when I have more spare time.


Jeremy
 
Bluereefs that looks like some pretty good stuff you've got mixed there. Wish I lived near a location where I could get a wide variety of fresh food like that. In regards to the aiptasia, I'm culturing berghia. Culturing the berghia is much easier than culturing the aiptasia to feed them. I'd love to have some overgrowth of aiptasia!! LOL!! As silly as it sounds, getting aiptasia to reproduce and grow fast when you want them to is harder than it sounds. Of course when you're dealing with an aiptasia infestation in a reef tank (and don't have berghia waiting to eat them they seem to grow and reproduce faster than any other living animal.

Mixed stuff are internal part of crab Maja squinado including eggs ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maja_squinado ) legs and arms are not mixed there because are hard to clean when is fresh, to wet. I was very close to import berghia and breed them, read all materials/articles about breeding, find a dealer but then I come to thread from Paul B: electrocuting majano and order one zapper from him, hopefully with his device I will destroy all aiptasia. Berghia are super but I need to made import licence, documentation... and only that cost aprox 300$ + shipping, taxes, berghia itself so zapper are cheaper solution. What is really ironic we have few Beghia species in Adriatic Sea, even big Berghia (2-3 inches) who eat local anemone and I am sure they will aiptasia as well, I saw them and catched in the past when I do not needed them, now when I need them I could find not even one, that is classic in reef keeping. Off course I am quite sure that if I need aiptasia for whatever reason next day they will be all gone.
 
If you want them as pellets then look into the shapelock plastic. Some where in one of these post Randy suggested using that, IIRC. Also search for Friendly plastic or polymorph. I got some of the polymorph for about $15 a pound. Sorry no results yet.
 
Mixed stuff are internal part of crab Maja squinado including eggs ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maja_squinado ) legs and arms are not mixed there because are hard to clean when is fresh, to wet. I was very close to import berghia and breed them, read all materials/articles about breeding, find a dealer but then I come to thread from Paul B: electrocuting majano and order one zapper from him, hopefully with his device I will destroy all aiptasia. Berghia are super but I need to made import licence, documentation... and only that cost aprox 300$ + shipping, taxes, berghia itself so zapper are cheaper solution. What is really ironic we have few Beghia species in Adriatic Sea, even big Berghia (2-3 inches) who eat local anemone and I am sure they will aiptasia as well, I saw them and catched in the past when I do not needed them, now when I need them I could find not even one, that is classic in reef keeping. Off course I am quite sure that if I need aiptasia for whatever reason next day they will be all gone.

Wow!! You would have to get a license to get berghia shipped to you?? How do you get any other livestock??

Jeremy
 
I would worry about what else is in them. BUt if you do try it i wound try and break them up so that you have more surface area.

Exactly, but given the decomp rate is less than 90 days I think I'd be more inclined to just throw them in there and see what happens. Smaller pieces break down faster.

DJ
 
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Mixed stuff are internal part of crab Maja squinado including eggs ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maja_squinado ) legs and arms are not mixed there because are hard to clean when is fresh, to wet. I was very close to import berghia and breed them, read all materials/articles about breeding, find a dealer but then I come to thread from Paul B: electrocuting majano and order one zapper from him, hopefully with his device I will destroy all aiptasia. Berghia are super but I need to made import licence, documentation... and only that cost aprox 300$ + shipping, taxes, berghia itself so zapper are cheaper solution. What is really ironic we have few Beghia species in Adriatic Sea, even big Berghia (2-3 inches) who eat local anemone and I am sure they will aiptasia as well, I saw them and catched in the past when I do not needed them, now when I need them I could find not even one, that is classic in reef keeping. Off course I am quite sure that if I need aiptasia for whatever reason next day they will be all gone.

That's hilarious that you can easily/cheaply attain an electrocution (torture) device, but need permits and loads of cash to bring in a couple of slugs.

DJ
 
lol DJREEF , is true, I think I could import plutonium much more easy then livestock.

How do you get any other livestock??
Same, direct import from livestock exporters, 3 months of paperwork, import, usually get screwed for at least 30-40 % of order ( if I am lucky), bancrupt, recover and then again, LOL
 
There is so much information in this thread but it's hard to sort through everything because everyone seems to have different experiences with these and each person has a varying degree of documentation.
From what I can gather, the pellets have a positive effect when:
Used with strong skimmer
Gradually increased from 1/2 recommended dose
Used in a reactor
Pellets are in low tumble
Reactor output is very close to skimmer intake

Am I correct in this? I have read about the limiting factor amongst the primary foods, C,N and P, which seems to make a lot of sense, so it is better to increase C very gradually while monitoring N and P?
 
There is so much information in this thread but it's hard to sort through everything because everyone seems to have different experiences with these and each person has a varying degree of documentation.
From what I can gather, the pellets have a positive effect when:
Used with strong skimmer
Gradually increased from 1/2 recommended dose
Used in a reactor
Pellets are in low tumble
Reactor output is very close to skimmer intake

Am I correct in this? I have read about the limiting factor amongst the primary foods, C,N and P, which seems to make a lot of sense, so it is better to increase C very gradually while monitoring N and P?

That's a pretty good generalization IMO.

Jeremy
 
Hey guys, I am super interested in this product, and were wondering if you think it would work out in my system. After 1 hour of reading ive only made it through the first 10 pages of this thread and still have a few ?'s. I have a 210 gallon mixed reef, that has been overall doing really well. I have recently increased my feedings in an attempt to keep my anthias and new tangs happy. Since the feedings have increased, I have noticed a very light green cyano-ish bacteria growing in the lowest flow areas of the tank. My sps have also lost some of their color. Ive always had some diatomish brown algae that grows on the sand. Im guessing increased nutrients in the system are the culprit and Id like to get the tank as clean as possible. The only supplements I have ever used are calcium and alkalinity buffers, as well as GFO. I currently have a reactor filled with de-nitrate that I was thinking of swapping out for the Bio-pellets. Do you think this product will help? and what flow optimizes their performance in the reactor, here is a pic of the tank just for fun. Also my nitrates and phosphates are testing up as 0, but I am only using API kits so I know they are not the most accurate.
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nadking, you can try, start with low amount of bp and add slowly more bp until you get satisfied with results. Watch carefully for posibble issue with soft corals, I do not have problem with soft corals but someone mentioned in this thread that they lost softy due to bleaching. If your reactor start to produce bacteria I think that will be positive for your aquarium. I use aprox 500 ml of bp on heavy feeded 150 g aquarium.

Here is recent shot of my 150 g aquarium, is also mixed reef, sorry for the picture quality
normal_2.jpg


normal_1.jpg


normal_4.jpg
 
Bluereefs, great looking tank, it looks like we have a similar amount of fish, although you have WAY more corals than me. How much of the np do you think I should begin with on my 210, overall volume appx. 240. I am not too concerened with bleaching of my softies, as I am not as in love with them as I am the sps.
 
Thank you nadking, most of sps corals grow from tinny/small frags.

I started with 100 ml and ad each week or two 100 ml until I come to 500 ml, I do had high nitrate, 50 mg/lit and have specific diy reactor who create bacterial bloom if I start with high dosage so for me was mandatory to start with small amount. Your aquarium are different so I can not say exact amount but IMO is safer to start with very law amount and ad each week litlle more. Because you have bigger tank maybe you can start with 200 ml and add 100-200 ml each week, maybe even better every 2 week because my starting bp was already in use and had bacteria, you will start with fresh bp who need few weeks to reach maxmium bacterial production.
 
Interesting. For the first time it´s working. I have removed the pellets (500 ml in a 550 L mixed reeftank) and cleand them. Re-started with 125 ml in a Deltec reactor using a MJ1200 now after a week and I can see bacteria on the panels. No bloom, decreasing No3 and everything seems to be ok with the corals. It´s seems to be a dose response issue.
 
thank you very much for the insight, another question for the group. I have taken my bioballs out of my wet-dry and run that section completely bare for the time being. I still do use a filter pad over the top of where the bio balls should be. If i started using this product would the filterpad get sooo muck and clog to the point I should take it out. Or should I leave it in their as just another polisher.
 
Did anyone have 2 bacterial blooms???

I had the first one and it lasted about 5 days
the tank has been clear for about 4 days now and it's starting to get cloudy again !! :/
 
My 1st bacterial bloom with half of intended pellet dosage lasted about the same amount of days as yours. 10 days later I added half of the remaining amount and experienced a slight bacterial bloom that lasted 2 days, definitely not as cloudy as the first.
The 3rd and final addition created no bacterial bloom.
 
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