N/P reducing pellets (solid vodka dosing)
- Thread starter tntneon
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Yes carbon would help. The cloudiness is a normal part of the process. You should expect a bacterial bloom within the first couple of days of using the pellets. This usually clears up within a day or two. The main concern is if you have high nitrates/phosphates and start with a large amount of pellets, you can have a bloom so large that the oxygen can be depleted in your system. hence the suggestion to use air stones.
As a side note: I heard that if you use the system without a skimmer the bacterial blooms ( which usually happen only initially) can repeat themselves.
SJ
As a side note: I heard that if you use the system without a skimmer the bacterial blooms ( which usually happen only initially) can repeat themselves.
SJ
thank you scej12
this bloom took about 2 weeks to happen so i guess they are finally kicking in.
i added the 2 airstones and also turned the skimmer up alittle i notice my skimmate was a lot drier than usual. i only added about 1/4 of the amount of carbon as usual i wasnt sure so better less to be safe.
today a lot more clear. what i did notice today was what softies i have in the tank are closed and thinning out. and feeders are out on all my sps and lps and didnt feed yet. Also in my frag tank since it is bare black bottom i noticed white hairs like algae that was never there before.
what could the hairs be?
TheFishMan65
New member
Probably bacteria strings from what i have read. Got pictures?
gary faulkner
New member
Do you have to keep the Kh low using this method as when using vodka and if so what salt mix are most people using or is there another way to keep alk low enough not to burn tips on SPS?
TIA
TIA
tony varrell
New member
Man I keep reading about all the wonderful results people are having with this product. I am happy for them I can tell you that I have been using the pellets from three months now and have noticed no reduction in Nitrates at all. In fact the pellets look exactly the same as they did when I put them into my system. I am using roughly 1500ML in one of the new nexreef reactors, flow is prefect out put from the reactor goes directly into my Bubble King 250 SM.
I have roughly 350 gallons of water NO3 was 8 to 10 PPM tested on a Lamott low range test kit when I started. Today the NO3 test 10 to 12 PPM on the same test kit. I should also add there has only been negitive effect and that was on my wallet my system remains unfazed by the pellets.
Any suggestions before I pull these pellets off line. Do not suggest bacteria supplementation as a fix. Supposedly the product does not require bacteria supplementation. Thanks..
I have posted the same comments on the Ecopak thread as I have tried them as well..
I have roughly 350 gallons of water NO3 was 8 to 10 PPM tested on a Lamott low range test kit when I started. Today the NO3 test 10 to 12 PPM on the same test kit. I should also add there has only been negitive effect and that was on my wallet my system remains unfazed by the pellets.
Any suggestions before I pull these pellets off line. Do not suggest bacteria supplementation as a fix. Supposedly the product does not require bacteria supplementation. Thanks..
I have posted the same comments on the Ecopak thread as I have tried them as well..
plankton99
New member
Bio Pellet Summary Needed? Need a FAQ
Bio Pellet Summary Needed? Need a FAQ
Is anyone willing to summarize this thread for the lay-person to understand.
Some starting FAQs to answer may be the following...
Do Bio Pellets Reduce Nitrates and Phosphates or only Nitrates?
Can you summarize the Biological Process of how the bacteria work with the Bio Pellets?
Are there any other things that need to be done to support the process? (i.e. more water changes, keep ph stable etc)
Are there any side effects?
*** Any other questions I forgot?
Bio Pellet Summary Needed? Need a FAQ
Is anyone willing to summarize this thread for the lay-person to understand.
Some starting FAQs to answer may be the following...
Do Bio Pellets Reduce Nitrates and Phosphates or only Nitrates?
Can you summarize the Biological Process of how the bacteria work with the Bio Pellets?
- What type of bacteria?
- Do bacteria eat the pellets or something else?
- Do the bacteria directly eat Nitrates and/or Phosphates or is the reduction in N&P a secondary effect?
Are there any other things that need to be done to support the process? (i.e. more water changes, keep ph stable etc)
Are there any side effects?
*** Any other questions I forgot?
JasonD
Active member
I know you don't want me to suggest it but why not try a little Microbacter 7(MB7). A small bottle isn't much and what do you have to lose, either way you could report back how it worked for you. Either become a believer (like I am) or a skeptic like numerous other people. Either way should be a fun experiment to do.
The pellets really reduced my Nitrate from three or four to undetectable. I also doese with MB7.
In fact I like it so much i continue to dose a little bit every day.
Jason
1. Most likely, many types of bacteria are involved, including microbial films that produce an reduced-oxygen zone.
2. The bacteria consume nitrogen and phosphorus from the water column, and carbon from the pellets.
3. The link should be fairly direct.
Next set:
1) No. Bacteria will come for free.
2) No. Limewater should be fine with the pellets.
3) Calcium acetate can be costly to acquire directly. Other than that, it's fine if your system can stand the extra organic carbon.
2. The bacteria consume nitrogen and phosphorus from the water column, and carbon from the pellets.
3. The link should be fairly direct.
Next set:
1) No. Bacteria will come for free.
2) No. Limewater should be fine with the pellets.
3) Calcium acetate can be costly to acquire directly. Other than that, it's fine if your system can stand the extra organic carbon.
stevedola
Master of my domain
On my fathers tank I was able to reduce the algea problem I had to zero with NPs. However after a while the tank started to look ill. I took the pellets off line and tossed them. The tank started to show some of the algea returning however hes been able to combat the little bit with maintenance, reduced feedings, and water changes. The tank looks great.
I also, installed NPs on my 60g cube and found the result to be subpar. SPS didnt do well and some lps retracted after the Nps were running for several mths. I have sinced discontinued and my tank has turned around with very positive results.
I think the main difference in the 2 tanks was my husbandry skills were not lacking or maybe more aware of the consequences. The 60g had low NO3 and PO4 to begin with. What ever little bit the pellets were consuming was starving the coral (IMO). Where as my fathers 90g had a surplus of "food" to consume from his overfeeding and overstocking.
Just like anything else, I believe these types of products have their place. If you consistantly overfeed and slack on water changes then this product would do an good job of reducing PO4 and NO3 in your tank. However if your tank was not showing the signs of excess nutrients then in my opinion I would stay away. I never saw any results in the 60 however the difference in the 90g was remarkable.
just my thoughts. take it or leave it.
ps-the pellets were run for roughtly 6mths on the 60g and 8 mths on the 90g.
I also, installed NPs on my 60g cube and found the result to be subpar. SPS didnt do well and some lps retracted after the Nps were running for several mths. I have sinced discontinued and my tank has turned around with very positive results.
I think the main difference in the 2 tanks was my husbandry skills were not lacking or maybe more aware of the consequences. The 60g had low NO3 and PO4 to begin with. What ever little bit the pellets were consuming was starving the coral (IMO). Where as my fathers 90g had a surplus of "food" to consume from his overfeeding and overstocking.
Just like anything else, I believe these types of products have their place. If you consistantly overfeed and slack on water changes then this product would do an good job of reducing PO4 and NO3 in your tank. However if your tank was not showing the signs of excess nutrients then in my opinion I would stay away. I never saw any results in the 60 however the difference in the 90g was remarkable.
just my thoughts. take it or leave it.
ps-the pellets were run for roughtly 6mths on the 60g and 8 mths on the 90g.
tntneon
SPSahollic
Hi stevedola ,
Witch brand of pellets did you use ?
I too started with low detectable nutrients , but with hair algea problems.
My corals never seem to suffer the lack of N /P , it seems other wise in my case.
The only thing i look at is my ball of chaeto if she/he starts to go lighter colored or go brittle then thats the point that i reduced some of the pellets (1/4 of the amount), nitrates are at 0.2 ppm and po4 lower then 0.0015 ppm (salifert)
greetingzz tntneon
Witch brand of pellets did you use ?
I too started with low detectable nutrients , but with hair algea problems.
My corals never seem to suffer the lack of N /P , it seems other wise in my case.
The only thing i look at is my ball of chaeto if she/he starts to go lighter colored or go brittle then thats the point that i reduced some of the pellets (1/4 of the amount), nitrates are at 0.2 ppm and po4 lower then 0.0015 ppm (salifert)
greetingzz tntneon
tntneon
SPSahollic
-It will stay a tricky question , but the flow thru the reactor has to sufficient to be able to remove bacterail build-up .
In other words if they gently tumble or boil you are pretty much sure there's enough flow to remove bacterial plancton and detrius that can be skimmed of or eaten by the corals.
If there is not much motion in the reactor you will have bacterial build up and / or build up off detrius which always is a bad thing , even in a BP reactor.
eventualy clogging the pellets togheter and creating anoxigic conditions , then will withness the smell of rotten eggs ( H2S) , wich is toxic
The principal is still keeping detrius and the bacteria coming loose from the pellets suspended so it can be skimmed off or eaten by the corals .
greetingzz tntneon
In other words if they gently tumble or boil you are pretty much sure there's enough flow to remove bacterial plancton and detrius that can be skimmed of or eaten by the corals.
If there is not much motion in the reactor you will have bacterial build up and / or build up off detrius which always is a bad thing , even in a BP reactor.
eventualy clogging the pellets togheter and creating anoxigic conditions , then will withness the smell of rotten eggs ( H2S) , wich is toxic
The principal is still keeping detrius and the bacteria coming loose from the pellets suspended so it can be skimmed off or eaten by the corals .
greetingzz tntneon
You could also use the pellets to feed your corals and fish more. This may allow you to balance your nutrient import and export at higher levels thus having healthier animals.
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