Need a DE 20k for Magnetic HQI Ballast

[Eric The Red]

Hi,
I'm looking to get more blue. I recently switched from T5's after many years to MH's and I'd prefer not to buy every bulb out there until I find one I like
Also, since I'm new to MH's I'm still trying to wrap my head around the impact of the ballasts I have.

I'm using Reeflex Cube Magnetic HQI ballasts and presently running DE Phoenix 14k bulbs. This combo is pretty white for my taste and I'd like to get more blue (and pop)!

I've been trying to research bulbs but now I'm getting nervous that some won't operate/perform with these magnetic HQI ballasts. As an example the Ushio 20k specifically says it is okay w/ mag HQI while the Reeflux 20k says pulse start mag is okay but HQI mag is not recommended. Is it really this complicated or am I over thinking it?

Does anyone have any recommendations for a DE 20k bulb that will perform well with these ballasts...?

 

[gcarroll]

How old are the Phoenix? They typically get more blue after break in. Keep in mind that your eyes may be deceiving you as to just how blue these bulbs are.

IMO, the Ushio 20K is less blue than the Phoenix. Bluest would probably be the EVC 20K.

The best bulbs I have used with that ballasts is the 250 watt Radium 20K. That is the recommended ballast and it is a great combo.

 

[Eric The Red]

Thanks Chef (lol),

The Phoenix are right around 3 weeks. Thanks for brining that up, I'll make sure I wait at least another week to make sure they've totally burnt-in before making any purchases.

I've heard great things about the Radium 20k's but those are all SE and need DE.

I'm very new to MH and I'm wondering if I can use any bulb with these magnetic HQI ballasts or if there are some I can't use?

 

[gcarroll]

There are very few DE bulbs that cannot be used with that ballast. As a matter of fact, only MH bulbs from cheap chinese factories are the only ones that I have seen not able to be run on these ballasts. Chinese MH manufacturers seem to be the only ones that are completely ignoring the standards set in the MH industry. Oh well this is the life that we live in and we can't do anything about it. You could always switch out to electronic ballasts or trade in the DE fixtures for moguls and go with the Radiums!

 

[tkeracer619]

I would enjoy what you have until its time to switch bulbs. It is a nice combo. If you want more pop consider adding some t5 actinics or some blue led strips. Rarely do we run halides without some type of supplement. It also allows us to watch the tank longer then we would like to run the halides.

 

[sirreal63]

If you stay with the DE, you can always add a T5 or two to get the color you want without sacrificing PAR. The Phoenix is a great bulb in DE form, I ran it for many years and liked the color, once it was broke in. If you have room to add a supplement to get the color you want, it is the best solution. LED actintics also work but have a hard time overpowering the halides, but it is what I am currently using. The price is not as easy to swallow with LED's but it will work out in the long run. I would have gone with T5 if I had the room, but I didn't.

 

[Eric The Red]

I would enjoy what you have until its time to switch bulbs. It is a nice combo. If you want more pop consider adding some t5 actinics or some blue led strips. Rarely do we run halides without some type of supplement. It also allows us to watch the tank longer then we would like to run the halides.

I'm already running a 36" ReefBright XHO LED strip which gives a very nice dawn/dusk look but they do very little to punch through the crisp white of the Phoenix 14k's. From what I've gathered, the ballasts I run tend to over-drive bulbs which tends to make them brighter white and less blue. I'm wondering if this is why I don't see as much blue as I thought I'd get with these bulbs.

 

[sirreal63]

Actually the ballast you have is the correct ballast, it does not overdrive a HQI bulb, it drives them according to the spec on the bulb.

 

[Eric The Red]

If you stay with the DE, you can always add a T5 or two to get the color you want without sacrificing PAR. The Phoenix is a great bulb in DE form, I ran it for many years and liked the color, once it was broke in. If you have room to add a supplement to get the color you want, it is the best solution. LED actintics also work but have a hard time overpowering the halides, but it is what I am currently using. The price is not as easy to swallow with LED's but it will work out in the long run. I would have gone with T5 if I had the room, but I didn't.

I'm strapped for room too so I can't add more than the LED strip I have now.

Why do you prefer the Phoenix? Did you see better growth vs. 20k?

 

[gcarroll]

Actually the ballast you have is the correct ballast, it does not overdrive a HQI bulb, it drives them according to the spec on the bulb.

100% correct.

 

[Eric The Red]

Actually the ballast you have is the correct ballast, it does not overdrive a HQI bulb, it drives them according to the spec on the bulb.

Oh, that's great to know. I never realized how complicated MH setups can be with all the different ballasts out there! I've been getting pretty confused....:hmm4:

 

[sirreal63]

Don't let it confuse you, it is not difficult. I liked the Phoenix for the fantastic PAR and though it is listed as a 14k bulb, it more closely resembles many 20K bulbs but the PAR is significantly higher than a 20K bulb. The only issue I ever had with it is it tends to wash out reds and greens a little but that is where supplementation comes in. If you want that Windex blue look, you may be disappointed. Any time you change bulbs, give it a few weeks before you decide, once you get used to it you may decide to not change it.

Color is subjective, what looks good to me may not look good to you. I hate the Windex look, but you may not, and what looks too blue to me your eyes may perceive as perfect. Computer pics are misleading too, all monitors display color differently and our eyes all perceive color differently, though the difference may be subtle, it is there. The clarity of your water will also impact the color of the bulb and the PAR reaching the corals.

 

[Eric The Red]

Don't let it confuse you, it is not difficult. I liked the Phoenix for the fantastic PAR and though it is listed as a 14k bulb, it more closely resembles many 20K bulbs but the PAR is significantly higher than a 20K bulb. The only issue I ever had with it is it tends to wash out reds and greens a little but that is where supplementation comes in. If you want that Windex blue look, you may be disappointed. Any time you change bulbs, give it a few weeks before you decide, once you get used to it you may decide to not change it.

Color is subjective, what looks good to me may not look good to you. I hate the Windex look, but you may not, and what looks too blue to me your eyes may perceive as perfect. Computer pics are misleading too, all monitors display color differently and our eyes all perceive color differently, though the difference may be subtle, it is there. The clarity of your water will also impact the color of the bulb and the PAR reaching the corals.

Thanks