truthdesigns
New member
Is it even possible to get a shot with slow shutter speeds and no blur? Trust me if that was the case i would not use a flash it blinds
me when i skate.
me when i skate.
Need Help Bad with Sport Photos
- Thread starter truthdesigns
- Start date
Unfortunately, not really if you're shooting moving objects. In some cases you can pan the subject but then the background will be blurred and it works better if your subjects are moving in a straight line which I don't think will be the case for the skating shots your trying to capture. Your choices are really to get faster shutter speeds either by using higher ISOs or larger apertures or to use flash to freeze the movement at lower shutter speeds.
truthdesigns
New member
Thx swjim I am going to invest in a flash your shots are amazing!
TitusvileSurfer
New member
GO MAGIC!! (@ guy with Lakers avatar)
I'm afraid you might be a bit let down by the quality you get with any sort of "on camera flash." Whether you're shooting with the little built-in flash or something like the SB-600 on your hotshoe, the images are going to come out flat given that your light source is coming from the flash itself. You might consider putting an SB-600 or better yet, a strobe, on a tripod away from the camera and triggering it remotely.
Do checkout www.strobist.com, and especially look at the "lighting 101" section here: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
It's a website about off-camera lighting written for amateurs in easy to understand language.
Also, like others said, look at getting a 35 or 50 mm lens that will stop down all the way to f1.8. That will DRAMATICALLY increase the amount of light that enters the lens, allowing you to use a faster shutter speed, which is absolutely essential for freezing action. Of course, it'll result in a much more shallow depth of field. Depth of field is the amount of the image that is in focus... meaning that the bigger the aperture is, the lesser amount of image will be in focus. Look to this link for a good explanation: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-of-field.htm Using a lens like that will also mean that you can't zoom, but bear in mind that these are the types of lenses the pros typically use, and for good reason. They almost always have better image quality.
By now, you're likely understanding that photography is all about tradeoffs. The trick is learning to use those tradeoffs creatively to your advantage. So what if you get a grainy image... make it black and white and make it EVEN MORE GRAINY in photoshop... the results can be pretty cool. Maybe go ahead and use a SUPER SLOW SHUTTER SPEED and get tons of light and capture the skater in motion blurring past you.
I may be a novice with reefkeeping, but I do happen to know a thing or two about photography. Hope this helps.
Do checkout www.strobist.com, and especially look at the "lighting 101" section here: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
It's a website about off-camera lighting written for amateurs in easy to understand language.
Also, like others said, look at getting a 35 or 50 mm lens that will stop down all the way to f1.8. That will DRAMATICALLY increase the amount of light that enters the lens, allowing you to use a faster shutter speed, which is absolutely essential for freezing action. Of course, it'll result in a much more shallow depth of field. Depth of field is the amount of the image that is in focus... meaning that the bigger the aperture is, the lesser amount of image will be in focus. Look to this link for a good explanation: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-of-field.htm Using a lens like that will also mean that you can't zoom, but bear in mind that these are the types of lenses the pros typically use, and for good reason. They almost always have better image quality.
By now, you're likely understanding that photography is all about tradeoffs. The trick is learning to use those tradeoffs creatively to your advantage. So what if you get a grainy image... make it black and white and make it EVEN MORE GRAINY in photoshop... the results can be pretty cool. Maybe go ahead and use a SUPER SLOW SHUTTER SPEED and get tons of light and capture the skater in motion blurring past you.
I may be a novice with reefkeeping, but I do happen to know a thing or two about photography. Hope this helps.
xtm
Active member
Unfortunately, the D50 can't do commander mode (ie. it can't fire an SB-600 off camera) I was gonna suggest maybe fire the strobe BEHIND the skater so it doesn't blind him.
Just tell them to suck it up and get used to the flash IF they really wanted a great action shot of themselves
The easiest solution is to just move to an area where there's enough light. That or just shoot during daytime.
Just tell them to suck it up and get used to the flash IF they really wanted a great action shot of themselves
The easiest solution is to just move to an area where there's enough light. That or just shoot during daytime.
truthdesigns
New member
Lots of lighting info there!
As soon as the weather cools down I will go out
during the day and play some more. Its 110 degrees
during the day in this hot dry desert I live in :0)
Will the Nikkor 50mm f1.8 AI Auto focus on my D50?
As soon as the weather cools down I will go out
during the day and play some more. Its 110 degrees
during the day in this hot dry desert I live in :0)
Will the Nikkor 50mm f1.8 AI Auto focus on my D50?
Why can't it? It has a hotshoe, that is all that is required.
Actually the D50 has a little bit of an advantage when it comes to flash photography due to it having a combination electronic/mechanical shutter. Depending on how much one wants to spend there are a lot of options, from a couple hotshoe adapters and a PC cord that can be had for $50 to cheaper radio triggers to something a little nicer and more reliable like Radio Poppers or Pocket Wizards. Heck, where he's working at night he could probably get away with triggering an off-camera flash via optical trigger with an on-camera flash set to extremely low power .Built in systems typically aren't all that reliable anyway
.
truthdesigns
New member
I got a SB-28 and I am saving up for a SB-600.
I also bought a RF-602 Yongnuo trigger and two recievers.
Here is a shot with my SB-28 on my camera. I can't wait to
start using off camera flash!!!
I also bought a RF-602 Yongnuo trigger and two recievers.
Here is a shot with my SB-28 on my camera. I can't wait to
start using off camera flash!!!
ReefingintheUSA
New member
Looking much sweeter Justin!
I shoot sports, but never at night
looking great!
I shoot sports, but never at night
looking great!
TitusvileSurfer
New member
I think a faster lens will be key. The latest round was 1/60 which seemed to work well. The wide angle may be more forgiving with hand shake but not as much with subject movement!
dendronepthya
Premium Member
I agree. You need a lens with a huge aperture to get the kind of performance you want. There are a lot of great f/1.4 lenses out there.
truthdesigns
New member
I brought my kit lens for a test run.
I love my 50mm 1.8 but its tough to get a wide shot
from it. Got any sugestions on lens? I really want a fish eye.
I love my 50mm 1.8 but its tough to get a wide shot
from it. Got any sugestions on lens? I really want a fish eye.
dendronepthya
Premium Member
The lens I use most is a 35mm f/1.4 on a full frame camera. A 50mm on a crop sensor camera gives you the field of view of an 80mm, so it may look a bit tight.
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