New Ca reactor design with pics and drawings

Well the drilled out 1/2" JG fitting leaked when I inserted my Milwaukee PH probe. The Probe is just a few 1000ths smaller than an halve inch.

But not to let the thing whip me, I pulled the JG fitting apart and removed the o-ring. After a trip to the auto parts store had another o-ring with a 1/2" id but 3/4" od. Well it was too big, so plan B, nothing to loose, I put the bigger o-ring over a 1/2" drill bit and took some sandpaper to it. After a couple of trys, I got the od down where it was snug but would go back in the JG fitting. When the probe was inserted it was darn tight, no more leak.

This was JG fitting number 2 as I thought I may have drilled the first one too much, just fyi.

Ah the things we do for our habit, I mean hobby!!! It is good we don't count our time as costs as this DIY reactor would have cost 1000K if I had, LOL.

But, I have had a friend ask me to build him one, so I won't have to make the same mistakes again.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6384482#post6384482 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by m8298
schwaggs, the 1/2" John Guest fitting fits your PH probe, after only having to drill out the bottom?

The probe fits in the JG fitting but the stop in the bottom of the JG fitting prevents you from inserting in to get past the part of the probe with the cutouts.

scbasser5, did you drill it out from the bottom or the top? I think i drilled mine out from the bottom and had no leaks using a Neptune probe.
 
Yep, drilled both of them from the bottom. Milwaukee sells a probe holder that has a compression fitting that holds the probe, when you tighten the collar. The probe slide in way to easy and would pull right out without depressing the release.

I didnt think about it but I didnt actually use the JG brand fitting, it was the HD equivalent. I suppose that could be the differance too.
 
Hey thanks a lot for the replies.


Ah the things we do for our habit, I mean hobby!!! It is good we don't count our time as costs as this DIY reactor would have cost 1000K if I had, LOL.

Schbasser5, I think you had it write the first time. It's funny how people like us can put so much time and energy into projects like this. For me, it isn't so much about saving the money, it's the challenge and enjoyment of doing it. Half of the time I would probably still build my own even if the cost was the same.

Did you modify yours to eliminate the venturi like schwaggs? I'm curious how this compares to one with the venturi. I'm am just starting my own, I cut the acrylic last night. I need to find some place that sells Weld-On #3 though, I have #16 which I'd be afraid to use for this.
 
Since we're on the topic of the probe, can you tell me a little more about the PH that you are targeting? I would like to unstand the correlation between the target PH mesured in the circulation loop, and the target PH of the effluent.

schwaggs, can you also explain what all the 1/4" fittings are in the photo? It looks like the recirculated co2 goes into the end of the tee on the pump, along with the water inlet, what is line with the little ball valve? And what are the two elbows that are connected?(Is that the output?)
 
M8298, yes sir the challenge of doing it myself is what it is all about. What other hobby do you get up at 3 in the morning to make sure you have little tiny bubbles in a glass and no water on the floor.

I did the venturi first go around, then 3 days later changed to Schwaggs plan. First tip if you going to do it Schwaggs way do it from the start, it is easier to plumb if you dont already have holes in the reactor to mate back up to. Schwaggs said he laid his all out and then drilled the holes. I drilled the holes before I assembled mine and wasnt able to get a union between the return and the front of the pump because of limited room.

So far I think Schwaggs plan works a little better. The venturi, worked as I could occasionally see bubbles sucking into it. The Schwaggs layout, I see bubbles pulled all the way across the top of mine. I used clear acrylic for my top, it was just easier to cut out of the same stuff than buy another sheet.

If you read back up the posts a few, Schwaggs gives you all the info you need get one up and going. The line in the photo is the input from the tank (the one with the ball valve). The CO2 goes in the bottom elbow and only the recirc water goes in the end.

NO! I don't know how it all works just repeating the good advice I have been given.
 
Thanks again for the reply.

So, let me get this straight, the water in from the tank goes in at the 1/4" tube with the ball valve, the co2 comes in from the regulator in the bottom elbow, and the water/co2 recirc from the top of the reactor goes in the end.

Then, what is the 1/4" line that connects two elbows? (the one that goes from the bottom, middle of the reactor, to the left side.) Is this the output? If so, where is it coming out of the reactor at?

Sorry, I am being a little slow with this.
 
Schwaggs may correct me but it looks like that little loop is the return to the sump. It comes out of the output chamber just to the left of the return to the pump and then goes right in the side of the sump. Or this is how I see it any way.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6391039#post6391039 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by m8298
I would like to unstand the correlation between the target PH mesured in the circulation loop, and the target PH of the effluent.

I believe they are the same most of the time. They could vary slightly when CO2 administration is cut-off (if you are using a controller to control the pH in the reactor) but for the most part both are the same.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6391039#post6391039 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by m8298
schwaggs, can you also explain what all the 1/4" fittings are in the photo? It looks like the recirculated co2 goes into the end of the tee on the pump, along with the water inlet, what is line with the little ball valve? And what are the two elbows that are connected?(Is that the output?)

scbasser5 has all the tubes identified correctly. The 1/4" tube you see going from the bottom of the downflow chamber to the 3rd chamber was an experiment to try and lower the pH of the effluent that failed. My current reactor does not have a third chamber.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6363365#post6363365 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by schwaggs
Thats a good catch, I should have mentioned to set the pressure on the regulator to around 20 psi (or whatever your regulator/solonoid manuafacturer reccomends) and the bubble rate to around 60 for most systems. The bubble rate can be adjusted up or down for larger or lower flow rates but it really doesn't have to unless you can't keep the pH down.

scbasser5, the media can turn to mush in a few minutes if you lower the pH too low. I have the probe mounted in a T in the return side (return to the pump). The T has a 1/2 FPT into which I thread a 1/2" John Guest fitting with the bottom stop drilled out. A picture is worth a thousand words, see below.

10883117-1793_IMG.jpg


Rico, After starting the CA reactor. I have never had a problem keeping Alk in line as long as the CA levels were at 400 or so. If you have the ca levels at 400 but alk is too low, I would add the alk booster additive of your choice, slowly over the period of several days until your alk is at the proper levels.

Great stuff! I'm curious though; the probe going into the 1/2" JG fitting, is it gliued in there? or does it use the quick connect system of the JG?
 
If the probe is truly 1/2" in diameter the JG set up will hold it in place fine and makes it easy to remove for calibration.

My probe was a little smaller but I changed the o-ring in the JG fitting and it works great now.

Pardon me but I have always had that small probe problem. Sorry that was just too easy!
 
So then you guys all still have the effluent line back to the tank coming out the top of the reactor next to the recirc?

One of the reasons I asked about the PH correlation, is that I know in my LFS they keep the internal PH at approx. 6.9, but they have the effluent dripping into a hang-on speciman box. When I asked about this, they said it gives extra time for the PH to rise (I'm assumming that this is due to co2 leaving the solution.)

schwaggs, are the ball valves just there to alow you to shut-off and service the pump and/or probe, without emptying? And since you have a small ball valve on your input from the tank, is this how you regulate your output?

P.S. I really like this forum. You guys actually reply pretty quickly, not like some others I've been on.
 
I have a quick question...

I had my reactor set up for about 7 months, then had some issues with pressure build up due to clogging of the filter floss and acrylic plate on the downward side of the second chamber. Took everything out, cleaned up the filter floss and put everything back together. At the same time, I have changed out the reactor media as I was having some issues with phosphates and was using a very cheap crushed coral (which I think was previously used in a tank and likely was a phosphate sponge to some degree).

Well, ever since I put everything back together, the reactor has leaked. This is despite multiple (8+) c-clamps being added to help hold things together.

I am planning on replacing the nylon screws as a few have some wear on them and also plan to redrill the holes in the gasket where the screws come through as I think it is preventing the gasket from lying flat.

Long story short, I woud love to have some more info on how some of you out there are using round rubber o-ring gaskets? do you create a small groove for the o-ring, or just lay it in place? How many O-rings do you place? I assume they go inside the screws.

My flange unfortunately has a square center rather than round (which would make this easier), but it might be worthwhile exploring...

Thanks,
Mat
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6410251#post6410251 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bc_slc
I have a quick question...

I had my reactor set up for about 7 months, then had some issues with pressure build up due to clogging of the filter floss and acrylic plate on the downward side of the second chamber. Took everything out, cleaned up the filter floss and put everything back together. At the same time, I have changed out the reactor media as I was having some issues with phosphates and was using a very cheap crushed coral (which I think was previously used in a tank and likely was a phosphate sponge to some degree).

Well, ever since I put everything back together, the reactor has leaked. This is despite multiple (8+) c-clamps being added to help hold things together.

I am planning on replacing the nylon screws as a few have some wear on them and also plan to redrill the holes in the gasket where the screws come through as I think it is preventing the gasket from lying flat.

Long story short, I woud love to have some more info on how some of you out there are using round rubber o-ring gaskets? do you create a small groove for the o-ring, or just lay it in place? How many O-rings do you place? I assume they go inside the screws.

My flange unfortunately has a square center rather than round (which would make this easier), but it might be worthwhile exploring...

Thanks,
Mat

The answer to your question is covered in detail in the 1st book of this thread .

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showt...325#post4764325
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6397669#post6397669 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by m8298
So then you guys all still have the effluent line back to the tank coming out the top of the reactor next to the recirc?

One of the reasons I asked about the PH correlation, is that I know in my LFS they keep the internal PH at approx. 6.9, but they have the effluent dripping into a hang-on speciman box. When I asked about this, they said it gives extra time for the PH to rise (I'm assumming that this is due to co2 leaving the solution.)

schwaggs, are the ball valves just there to alow you to shut-off and service the pump and/or probe, without emptying? And since you have a small ball valve on your input from the tank, is this how you regulate your output?

1) Nope, my output is at the bottom of the downflow section.

2) You can do tis if you wish, I find it isn't necessary but YMMV :)

3) Exactly.
 
Thanks for the insight vmichael...very helpful, lol.

Anyone out there with practical experience with the O-rings or could you reference where within the 45 page previous thread this info was covered. After reading 20 pages of it last night, and having read it in the past as I constructed my reactor 10 months ago, I did not come across the answers to my questions.
 
Thanks for the answers schwaggs. So, the 1/4" elbow in the middle, on the bottom is the output. It looks like you also added a second plate and sponge on the input side, if that is the case, did you still use a spray bar?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=4779227#post4779227 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by neo1013
Can anyone post a materials list please. If I ever find the time I would like to make a web page with tons of DIY projects, parts lists, and instructions. But that is when I get time. For now I want to be able to build one of these for my new 125g.
page 26
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6417444#post6417444 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bc_slc
Thanks for the insight vmichael...very helpful, lol.

Anyone out there with practical experience with the O-rings or could you reference where within the 45 page previous thread this info was covered. After reading 20 pages of it last night, and having read it in the past as I constructed my reactor 10 months ago, I did not come across the answers to my questions.
page 35 has some info; I thought there was more.
 
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