New Marineland 300 DD Setup Log

Great progress on the thread, envious of the fish room =)..

The sump ( great craftsmanship may I add) is designed different than I've seen before. Your using your skimmer/Equipment chamber as the return also? So you have the street elbow just feeding your return pump through the divider and the refugium overflows into that section? I guess you won't have problems as long as the top off is working as it should, I have just never seen that before..
 
Thanks Guys,

Its coming along well better than I thought no hiccups as of yet.
 
Great progress on the thread, envious of the fish room =)..

The sump ( great craftsmanship may I add) is designed different than I've seen before. Your using your skimmer/Equipment chamber as the return also? So you have the street elbow just feeding your return pump through the divider and the refugium overflows into that section? I guess you won't have problems as long as the top off is working as it should, I have just never seen that before..


Thanks for the kind words,
Yes, I have a pipe 1.5" that goes through the refugium into the skimmer compartment, that is where the pump sucks the water and sends it into the pump and then manifolds and goes where it needs to be.

I have a double redundancy for water level ,a hydor pressure sensor for the ATO and a small float valve. I use this system because I believe in fumes and think for them to work properly water must be a slow feed, so about 400 gall flows into it, and then skims over the overflow with no micro bubbles also bringing pods into the reeftank.

I didn't want plumbing and electrical wire clutter so I did things different on this sump.

The Chilller hooked up on the lower left corner via a bulkhead which the output is aimed low and since cold water is heavier it flows in a circular motion flowing straight to the return elbow. on the right side its my sulphur reactor also plumbed with bulkheads on 1/4" connector .

I used to use baffles and think they are great for systems with lots of micro bubbles ,but not in my case :)
 
Today was get rid of all my left over plumbing day :)

So I used everything I had left to finish my water change mixing buckets and Tadaaa... Im done !


Now to stock the reef!

here is my mixing buckets didn't have to go to the plumbing shop had lots of leftovers

 
I will also be replacing my Reef Octopus with the new JNS ConeS CO-5 its a beast and has been ordered :)

it uses a Sicce 6 pump, and has a 10" reaction chamber with a height of 23" about you got to love these compact skimmers!

 
Nice build. How is that ball valve working on your herbies? If I had seen your thread in time, I would have suggested that you use gate valves instead. I got the same advice here about 5 years ago, and was very glad I switched out to gate valves. The herbies are very sensitive to minor changes in flow rates and ball valves make it annoyingly difficult to dial them in.
 
Nice build. How is that ball valve working on your herbies? If I had seen your thread in time, I would have suggested that you use gate valves instead. I got the same advice here about 5 years ago, and was very glad I switched out to gate valves. The herbies are very sensitive to minor changes in flow rates and ball valves make it annoyingly difficult to dial them in.

I have not made posts for awhile, sorry about that.

I did not buy the economy ball valves , I picked up better quality ones with Viton orings. All I can say they are very easy to adjust and I have not had to adjust as of yet everything is nice and stable. I was going to put my 1.5" gate valves(I had left over) but was told not needed.
 
Hi All,

I got my Tunze Care magnet ( strong model) and it is better than I thought! (tup)

it is so easy to use with no friction or force needed,German engineering is the best.

Unboxing:

you get double the blades and one razor blade attachment in the box. So no need to buy extra for some time.




even a quality control ticket :)



 
now the test

this thing glides on the glass with absolutely no friction 2 days of algae build up.



Hard Algae now you see it .....






Now you dont...... easy peesy!



Nice thing is I dont have to touch the MP40 it cleans all around in a jiffy.

So the Final review of this cleaning magnet is that it kicks the crap out of my ER6
 
Oh yeah Im also very unlucky with this new setup , picked up some frags one was a beautiful Tyre Lemonade. Several days later I noticed tissue loss, well it HAD ACROPORA EATING FLATWORMS devouring it. So I was lucky enough to pick up a bottle of the new Polyp Labs Primer (yet to be released to the public )and this stuff knocked the crap out of them they fell off right away only a 5 min dip and they were gone this stuff works really well.

Dosage is simple:

its a dry powder formula,

8 caps per gallon/ do the math for smaller quantities.

dissolve completely then dip your corals and frags for a max of 5 min only keeping water in movement ...thats it your done! no need to rinse etc.

Reef Primer will clean away: (I know it kicks the crap out of acropora eating flat worms)
Zoanthid eating nudi`s
Montipora eating nudi`s
bristleworms
Zoanthid eating spiders
Red Flatworms
Filamentous algea( yup you read right)
RTN( rapid tissue necrosis)
STN( slow tissue necrosis)

Bacterial infections and more!


 
UPDATE:

Hey All, I been very busy with work and very little time to spend on forums. After a few fish did some Air Diving and ended up on the floor behind my tank , I decided to build some screen covers.

Picked up the Screening from BRS, but later found out my local shop Reef Concept had some for the same price...actually less since there would be no high shipping costs.

Everything else I got from the local hardware store.



 
Amazing tank thanks a lot for sharing. I would like to know about the flow in your tank, wouldn't be better to use two Vortech MP60 and Vortech MP40 ?
 
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