NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!

Nirol said:
I overtightened it and broke it. Dumb me. And I didn't want to drain the tank, so I just pulled out the standpipe and let it all drain to the sump and switched it.

Oh, okay. I just didn't know if it had anything to do with this herbie method. You're still happy with the way it works and your tank is still silent? How long have you been using it now?
Has your drain ever clogged where you needed the emergency drain?
Sorry for all the questions, but you know I want to get this plumbing thing right, first time around ;)
 
revived from the dead! This is such a great method for plumbing the tank. Everytime someone comes over to see mine, they always say something about how quiet the tank is. I love it.
 
patsan: What they were saying about the overflow draining in to the tank is that if where the standpipe and bulkhead meet, that may leak if it isn't glued. That isn't unique to just this type of method.

Mine leaks like this very slowly too....

Mine has been running this way for 3 months now and I love it. It will barely overflow the emergency drain occasionally but I don't worry too much about it. I figure, if I have it almost overflowing that drain then I am good to go.

BTW, a gate valve is so much easier to control than the ball, so go that method.
 
thrlride said:
patsan: What they were saying about the overflow draining in to the tank is that if where the standpipe and bulkhead meet, that may leak if it isn't glued. That isn't unique to just this type of method.
Mine leaks like this very slowly too....
Mine has been running this way for 3 months now and I love it. It will barely overflow the emergency drain occasionally but I don't worry too much about it. I figure, if I have it almost overflowing that drain then I am good to go.
BTW, a gate valve is so much easier to control than the ball, so go that method.

Thanks. Hopefully I'll be able to start the plumbing job soon. I had just ordered true union ball valves, so I'll use that. Rufio said they work, and these are good ones I ordered, so they'll turn much easier than the kind HD sells.
 
I have been using this for about 6months now, and I must agree,
when properly tuned, it is dead silent.
However, I have found that mine needs constant fiddling. I am positive that it is because the pump output rate has fluctuated and started to decline over the last several months.
 
mc-cro said:
I have been using this for about 6months now, and I must agree,
when properly tuned, it is dead silent.
However, I have found that mine needs constant fiddling. I am positive that it is because the pump output rate has fluctuated and started to decline over the last several months.
So it gets noisy on you? I have a brand new Velocity T4 that I've heard nothing but praise for, so hopefully it will work good and I won't have those problems.
 
patsan said:
No, I don't want to glue them in. I should have enough room in the sump to handle whatever water is in the overflow.
What do you mean it will seap and eventually drain?
I know with the tank we have running right now, when we turn the pump off, the water immediately starts draining from the overflow into the sump. The pipes aren't glued into the bh's on that tank either.

I mean... if you glued the stand pipes, then the water level in the overflow box will only drain to the top of the standpipe. If you don't glue them (in which I didn't, due to similar reasons you stated), then the water will initially drain to the top of the standpipe and then slow drain all the way due to water draining from the bottom of the stand pipe where it connects with the bulkhead. It's not a problem if you leave enough room in your sump to handle to overflow.
 
What's w/ all the fuss over draining standpipes? If you've got nice solid Sch80 bulkheads, all you need is to put like two layers of teflon tape on the threads of your standpipe and then just twist it in... My standpipe never leaks and the water stops at the top lip of the standpipe.

Peace,
John H.
 
thrlride, it will cost you ten bucks to get threaded bulkheads or less. Well worth the investment and far less hassle. Rufio has it right.
 
patsan said:
Oh, okay. I just didn't know if it had anything to do with this herbie method. You're still happy with the way it works and your tank is still silent? How long have you been using it now?
Has your drain ever clogged where you needed the emergency drain?
Sorry for all the questions, but you know I want to get this plumbing thing right, first time around ;)
No problem! Your threads have helped me too! I have no leaks. I tuned mine by using a ball valve on the T from my return plumbing to the fuge part of the sump (slower flow in there) That valve is very touchy! an .125in turn and the water moves up or down an inch in the overflow. A little gate valve there would be easier. Once set it stays pretty stable though. No drips, no clogs, no sound! :D
 
drock59 said:
thrlride, it will cost you ten bucks to get threaded bulkheads or less. Well worth the investment and far less hassle. Rufio has it right.

No doubt about it. Not everyone has the abilty or desire to change them out for that though.

I believe that schedule 80 fittings require a different hole size too but I'm not 100% sure.
 
I have sch 80 bh's, but they are slip inside the overflow and theaded on the side inside the stand.
P4135246.jpg
 
thrlride said:
I may be looking at the picture wrong but it looks like the overflow side is threaded...
Here's the other side showing it's slip. I can just put a 1" male adapter on the side in the stand so I don't have to glue any pipe directly to the bh.
P4135245.jpg
 
So Pat... Is there another bulkhead in the tank right now so you could swap out and convert your bulkhead?

Why does anyone purchase slip bulkheads? There really doesn't seem to be any advantage whatsoever to them.

Peace,
John H.
 
rufio173 said:
So Pat... Is there another bulkhead in the tank right now so you could swap out and convert your bulkhead?
Why does anyone purchase slip bulkheads? There really doesn't seem to be any advantage whatsoever to them. Peace, John H. B]


No, there isn't. I bought the tank used and those are the bh's that came with it. I'll have to buy some new ones that are T/T.
I haven't started the plumbing on it yet, so there is time to do it.
 
Didn't you have a tank running Pat? You will be very happy w/ this setup if you take the time to set it up correctly. Always make sure to setup a backup overflow and also using some gutter guard on the main drain will also greatly lower the risk of something getting stuck into the pipe and lodging at the valve.

Peace,
John H.
 
rufio173 said:
Didn't you have a tank running Pat? You will be very happy w/ this setup if you take the time to set it up correctly. Always make sure to setup a backup overflow and also using some gutter guard on the main drain will also greatly lower the risk of something getting stuck into the pipe and lodging at the valve. Peace, John H.

Yes, we have a tank running, but this is another tank I bought a few weeks ago. This one has a real sump, not a converted wet/dry.
I bought an ASM G2 skimmer for it that will sit in the sump. I just need to do the plumbing and I'll be all set. You know how handicapped I am concerning plumbing, so I want to make a wise decision so I only have to do it once and not run into problems. Taking the time to set it up correctly isn't a problem. The setting it up correctly is. ;)

Being this tank has 3 drilled holes in the overflow box, to play it safe I could use the larger one for the drain, and the 2 smaller for the emergency backup drains. I'll do the returns up the back of the tank.
 
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