das75
New member
Sure the valve sets the height of the water over the top of the standpipe.
The waterfall noise is from the water dropping into the overflow chamber, increasing the length of the standpipe, less drop into the chamber.
NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!
- Thread starter Herbie
- Start date
Sure the valve sets the height of the water over the top of the standpipe.
The waterfall noise is from the water dropping into the overflow chamber, increasing the length of the standpipe, less drop into the chamber.
PowermanKW
New member
OK, so we are talking the two different standpipes. The valve sets the height of the water level, but if the emergency drain stand pipe is too low it will fall too far and cause noise.
I set the height of my emergency about 1/2" below the overflow grate.
das75
New member
Found adjusting the valve achieved a stable height with the water about 2" above the top of the primary, be it at the bottom of the overflow chamber or near the top.
Had the emergency like yours right up near the top, the primary ending about 4" down from the lip of the overflow.
Had the emergency like yours right up near the top, the primary ending about 4" down from the lip of the overflow.
jthomps123
Member
Just finished the plumbing on my 156. Used just a standpipe with a siphon overflow.
Why anyone would use anything BUT the herbie method is beyond me. I would personally prefer drilling and extra drain and having a totally silent drain AND sump as opposed to a single drain with an almost silent Durso and hot-tub sump.
No brainer here. Herbie method rocks.
Why anyone would use anything BUT the herbie method is beyond me. I would personally prefer drilling and extra drain and having a totally silent drain AND sump as opposed to a single drain with an almost silent Durso and hot-tub sump.
No brainer here. Herbie method rocks.
iglooreefer
New member
The only thing I can think of is the fact that you're defeating the purpose of the emergency by using it constantly. I have my emergency 1/4" below the inflow from the tank, and the water level 1/2" below the emergency pipe. I think as long as you can verify that your main drain is not clogged there's no harm no fowl to having a trickle, I would be worried about it one day getting clogged up at the same time as the main, and then having a swimming pool on your hands.
NaClCrocodile
New member
Alright so I, unfortunately, won't be going through the whole thread but I've got a question. I've got a 75G tank which is not RR and it's got tempered bottom panel. I'd really like to get it quiet (it's got water in it now, but can easily be drained). I've been reading up on this and I'd really like to try it out. I've gotten the tank drilled for a DIY overflow (not well planned) on the upper left back glass already but I think I'd like to Herbie it. My plan is either drill two holes on the bottom left and have the traditional Herbie, just with 90* elbows to take the pipes out the back OR drill one hole and use the top bulkhead as my backup. In the first approach I might be able to use it for my return but it's pretty big so who knows. Planning ahead looks really sexy right now.
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iglooreefer
New member
d2mini...You're running electrics through it...I love the idea man...I can see me drill and diamond bits comming out when I get home
Hey guys,
I am about halfway done with my new stand, and am about to start on my new sump/refugium project...know what this means??? NEW PLUMBING!!!
So my question is, when I swap over stands, I was going to leave the sand in and just lift it to the new stand, then slide it to the wall...I am REALLY not interested in cleaning out the tank and drilling...so here is my question.
IS this upgrade worth it for me to use the 2 holes in each overflow as drains...One as main, and one as emergency, and then taking my return behind the tank and up and over the top? My tank is painted back si I wont see it untill it gets over the lip. I will also have a light hood on top, so I am not TOO concerned about the asthetics up top...
what do you all think?
CJ
I am about halfway done with my new stand, and am about to start on my new sump/refugium project...know what this means??? NEW PLUMBING!!!
So my question is, when I swap over stands, I was going to leave the sand in and just lift it to the new stand, then slide it to the wall...I am REALLY not interested in cleaning out the tank and drilling...so here is my question.
IS this upgrade worth it for me to use the 2 holes in each overflow as drains...One as main, and one as emergency, and then taking my return behind the tank and up and over the top? My tank is painted back si I wont see it untill it gets over the lip. I will also have a light hood on top, so I am not TOO concerned about the asthetics up top...
what do you all think?
CJ
PowermanKW
New member
That's what I would do. You will need to tie your main drains together to make adjustment easier. Balancing seperate lines is harder to do.
PowermanKW
New member
Herbie works well on a RR tank. If you have to do all the work, you might want to look into doing a Bean Animall with coast to coast.
jthomps123
Member
Whats the advantage of the Bean Animal overflow?
PowermanKW
New member
Herbie and Bean use the same principles, but the Herbie is more suited for pre drilled reef tanks with overflow boxes. If you are going to start drilling holes in the back wall, then a Bean is more practical. 3 holes drilled as big as you like with a coast to coast overflow.
Even a modified Herbie with two equal sized holes would be good, but you need to partition them off with a weir like a coast to coast or some sort of overflow box. A hole drilled in the bottom of a tank has the ability to drain to the bottom of the tank.
d2mini
Premium Member
Yup! An extra 1" drain pipe.
But at 1" you will probably need to do some creative un-wiring/re-wiring of your equipment since it's not quite enough room for the plugs.
Or go for a 2" pipe if you have room.
See my 130g build thread in my sig for more.
Herbie rocks!
NaClCrocodile
New member
I looked at it, but I've got some Herbie questions before I start to think about converting. How often do you have to adjust your valves? That was a selling point for the Bean, is it the same case here? I think that a single sheet of acrylic will be a whole lot easier than two long pieces, so that's nice. Would it be personal prefrence, because I'm just looking at three holes, two or three more bulkheads, weld-on drying time etc on one hand. One sheet of acrylic, one more hole, unless I want my return plumbed, one (maybe two) more bulkheads and then I should be golden for Herbie. I'm also learning that these systems can handle alot more flow since they're full siphoned, correct? So I may not have to restrict my Mag9.5? That'd be a blessing.
another idea for silence
another idea for silence
I agree silence is golden, and safety from floods is paramount (I have had a few) so what about going sump-less and relying only on some high efficiency intank skimmer like the tunze 9020 to substitute for the skimmer function of the sump and a few powerful powerheads again maybe tunzes to substitute for a closed loop. I think that would be really silent and have virtually no flood potential save a complete break in the tank. Sure you are missing a algae fuge but would it work?
another idea for silence
I agree silence is golden, and safety from floods is paramount (I have had a few) so what about going sump-less and relying only on some high efficiency intank skimmer like the tunze 9020 to substitute for the skimmer function of the sump and a few powerful powerheads again maybe tunzes to substitute for a closed loop. I think that would be really silent and have virtually no flood potential save a complete break in the tank. Sure you are missing a algae fuge but would it work?
PowermanKW
New member
I hardly ever touch my valve. Every month or so I open it wide to flush it. If I have to adjust it, it is a simple tweak one way or the other. Turning off the pump doesn't change it. Pretty simple.
There is nothing magical about a siphon. Afull pipe of water is a full pipe of water. A 1" line at 3 feet of head pressure will flow x amount of GPH. Bean's at least is a true siphon in that there is a lifting component, but both tanks will flow the same amount.
Herbies were made for RR tanks because that is what he had. Bean had no limitations and went totally custom. Honestly, I think the Bean design is a bit too much, but there is certainly no safer overflow than a Bean. Just not sure it is needed.
I have thought that doing a custom Herbie would be plenty and much simpler. Both holes the same size.... or hell... even reversed. Drill a 1.25 primary. Tons of flow. Then drill a 1.5" emergency and run a a open channel. You would never have to adjust, and you would KNOW the emergency could handle 100% plus flow of the primary. I think it would be pretty sweet.
NaClCrocodile
New member
I'm with you on that. It seems like a whole bunch of backups and failsafes and blah blah blah. I think I'll be sticking to Herbie, because I've seen non-RR tanks in this thread working it. My backup is just going to be a 2" bulkhead with a strainer likely reduced to 1.5" or 1.25" and free flow (I've already got the hole, so it is what it is). Main pipe I'm thinking 1.25" because I know my pump is pushing ~750/800GPH and I'd really like to have it on free flow. I also plan on having a single piece of black acrylic on a diagonal as my overflow box (or triangle). Any reason nobody does a diagonal overflow? I've never seen one, is there something that is does to flow, take up too much space or what? Thanks!
Hal
New member
Does anyone tie their emergency drain to the main drain before the sump? If so, are there noise issues coming out of the emergency drain? Do you tie the two together before or after the gate valve on the main drain?
I've got a basement sump with two holes drilled in the floor of the first floor (one drain, one return), and would prefer not to have to drill a third hole for the emergency drain. That's why I want to tie my emergency drain with the main.
I've got a basement sump with two holes drilled in the floor of the first floor (one drain, one return), and would prefer not to have to drill a third hole for the emergency drain. That's why I want to tie my emergency drain with the main.
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