NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!

Ok, I read the whole post. I decided to do it, but it does not work. I think I know why, but someone may see something I am over looking so:

First I replumbed the return to go over the top. This had the advantage of increasing the volumn of water turned over. Fewer bends I guess. Next I removed the standpipe just to see where it would equalize (no gate or ball valve). The level in the overflow just kept rising until the sump ran dry.

Ideas? Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15589788#post15589788 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheFishMan65
Ok, I read the whole post. I decided to do it, but it does not work. I think I know why, but someone may see something I am over looking so:

First I replumbed the return to go over the top. This had the advantage of increasing the volumn of water turned over. Fewer bends I guess. Next I removed the standpipe just to see where it would equalize (no gate or ball valve). The level in the overflow just kept rising until the sump ran dry.

Ideas? Thanks

How big is your sump? My sump is large enough to take accomodate all the water from the overflow.

Do you have an emergency drain? Use a valve to control the water level in the overflow. I have mine set so that water is trickling down the emergency drain. It helps keep the water level constant.
 
Tygger I think you mis read my post. My problem is not that the sump is filling. It is emptying and all the water is in the tank.

75 gallon tank 18 gallon sump, no emergency drain yet

Thanks all
 
I think I read it correctly, but didn't answer well.

Sounds like you could have a pump that moves too much water for your drain or the water level in the overflow is still fluctuating.

If the water level in the overflow is stable and at its highest point without spilling over the display, then just add more water to your sump.

Use a gate valve to control the water level in the overflow. My standpipe goes up about halfway and I use the valve to adjust the water level just an inch or two below the overflow teeth. I keep it as high as possible (trickling down the emergency drain) to keep water noise down; it adds more water capacity in the system and prevents the sump from pumping extra water to fill the overflow (because pumps are inconsistent an can push more or less water at any given time). If the pump is acting a bit weak, it will lower the level in the overflow (to the standpipe) and increase in the sump. If the pump is strong, vice versa and the extra water would just run down the emergency and not drain the sump extraordinarily.

hth and makes sense
 
I think the overflow was about an inch lower than tank level. I am running a mag 5 (500 GPH) at about 3 or 4 feet. I should only be looking atmaybe 350 GPH. I can't imagine that is too big a pump.
 
So what size is your drain, what are you doing with the "emergency drain" bulkhead, and why no valve on the drain?

Not sure why you would set it up like this. You have too much return flow, put a valve on it. Not sure why a Mag 5 would out do your overflow.
 
Powerman do you really think that 350 gph is too much for a 75 gallon tank? I thought the rule was 3 to 4 - okay I am a little over that.

I fixed my problem however. Go ahead guess - you'll never get it.

I cut about 2 feet off the drain it was about 4 now only 2. So now that I proven it will work with my tank I will try and get the whole thing plumbed (valve, emergency overflow).
 
Proposed summary

Proposed summary

Okay I am going to try and summarize and explain this in one LONG but hopefully easy to understand post. I know that I have not posted much - hope I am not stepping on anyone's toes. InsaneReefer did this in the DIY rock thread and I found it very useful.

This is my theory only. Some of what I say is probably going to contradict what people are seeing. So please help me where my theory is wrong for the next folks so they can avoid almost 40 pages. If this gets a good reception I will post it every 5 to 10 pages so people can find it.

WARNING
This may not work with HOB they are siphon driven from the main tank. If the main drain fails the water level start to rise (to the emergency drain). Now there is less flow from the tank since the tank/HOB water differential is less. So the tank may fill up faster than the siphon can fill the HOB.

Siphon
The whole reason this works is because of a siphon. The larger the difference in the water levels the more siphoning action you have. So those of you that have your sump in the basement well let us face it. Your drain pipes SUCKS :). Also keep the drain return simple to a few bends.

For you really technical people the amount of water flow is dependent on the two heights, size of the pipe, the viscosity of the liquid, the friction of the pipe, and the number of bend. There are probably a few more in there that I missed :). I think for our cases pipe size and water height differential are the biggest factors.

Proof [\I]
Ever clean your tank with a siphon? Okay who has not? If you raise your dirty water bucket up the flow slows down (less action) and if you raise it high enough it will actually back flow.

So in order to have a constant drain flow the two ends must have the same height differential always.

Stand Pipe
Do you need one? NO. The reason for a stand pipe is to keep to much water returning to the sump in the event of a power failure.

Screens
Required? NO. But I would say highly recommended to keep items from getting into the drains. I would also screen the emergency drain "“ I have seen a snail go up out of the water. This is a comfort level call.

Emergency Drain
Required? No. It will work without, but I think you are asking for trouble. Once again this is a comfort call.

Ideas
If I read right almost everyone is using the larger (if two sizes) for the main drain and the smaller for the emergency drain. I think this is backwards. The main drain will be flow reduced so why not start with the smaller pipe (besides I bet the valve will be cheaper). If the smaller drain can not handle the flow it will not work for the emergency drain any way. Also the larger drain will be less noisy since air will not make as big a difference (larger flow before the vortex forms).

Several people are using the emergency drain to help level the system. Is this safe - another thread started by BeanAnimal say to then add a 3 drain for emergency. Do you need the third drain comfort call once a gain. A simple solution for thos with only two bulkheads is to place a pipe from the overflow to the sump (with a valve). Use this as you main drain, the first bulkhead can be for level control and the third for emergency. If you do this you will have to restart the siphon any time the siphon is broken (power failure), but you do have a noisy back up to tell you. The whole idea behind this is that it is easier to keep the water level steady in the overflow.

Two Drains "“ Over Flows
This is pure theory, but may explain why some people are having problems.

I do not think that two drains can have different flow rates unless one is to the top of the overflow. Assuming a level tank half the water will go into each overflow. So if they do not both drain half the water then one should eventually fill up. I said it was theory :) Also two drains are hard to adjust (so I have read), so I think the best advice is to tie them together before the gate valve.

Teeing Drain to 2 Locations
This is very hard to adjust. People have done it by gating one of the tees. Also both drains should be in the water for silence so both levels will need to be the same. Despite this I have read of people having one their fuges lower than the sump and/or the other way around. I guess that the water picked the easiest path and then created a venture that sucks the water out of the other container. Unless you want to fine tuning I do not think this is recommended.

Sump Level
I think that when you adjust the vavle ,if the water level above the pump is not constant it should be adjusted at the highest water level. As evaporation takes places the pump will have a slightly higher head and a little less water will flow into the tank. The level in the overflow will drop some. Either you will hear your pump run dry or the siphon will start sucking air. Either would mean to look at system.

Gate Valve Location
More theory here. If the discharge end is submerged I am not sure it makes a difference. Let's assume that it is not and the flow is slow enough or the pipe large enough that air enters. This will break the siphon for anything below the gate and decrease the flow. So I think in general the best place for the valve is a close to the pump as is reasonable.

Guide lines
  • Use the smaller pipe for the main drain
  • Keep the drain return simple and as strait as possible
  • Gate valve close to sump
  • Drain into a bucket (fixed water level) to keep the output level constant.
  • Emergency drain is above the water; you get splash warning that something is wrong.
  • Think about on over the top siphon (if emergency will be a height regulator).
  • Two drains should be tied before the gating valve
  • Teeing the drain to a sump a fuge is not recommended
  • Water level above pump should be constant
So do people agree with these guide lines? Was this helpful? Also everyone always want pictures "“ which have been the most helpful I will try and post them with credits to the original poster. Is that allowed to repost some else's picture?
 
Re: Proposed summary

Re: Proposed summary

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15595859#post15595859 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheFishMan65
Okay I am going to try and summarize and explain this in one LONG but hopefully easy to understand post. I know that I have not posted much - hope I am not stepping on anyone's toes. InsaneReefer did this in the DIY rock thread and I found it very useful.

This is my theory only. Some of what I say is probably going to contradict what people are seeing. So please help me where my theory is wrong for the next folks so they can avoid almost 40 pages. If this gets a good reception I will post it every 5 to 10 pages so people can find it.

WARNING
This may not work with HOB they are siphon driven from the main tank. If the main drain fails the water level start to rise (to the emergency drain). Now there is less flow from the tank since the tank/HOB water differential is less. So the tank may fill up faster than the siphon can fill the HOB.

Siphon
The whole reason this works is because of a siphon. The larger the difference in the water levels the more siphoning action you have. So those of you that have your sump in the basement well let us face it. Your drain pipes SUCKS :). Also keep the drain return simple to a few bends.

For you really technical people the amount of water flow is dependent on the two heights, size of the pipe, the viscosity of the liquid, the friction of the pipe, and the number of bend. There are probably a few more in there that I missed :). I think for our cases pipe size and water height differential are the biggest factors.

Proof [\I]
Ever clean your tank with a siphon? Okay who has not? If you raise your dirty water bucket up the flow slows down (less action) and if you raise it high enough it will actually back flow.

So in order to have a constant drain flow the two ends must have the same height differential always.

Stand Pipe
Do you need one? NO. The reason for a stand pipe is to keep to much water returning to the sump in the event of a power failure.

Screens
Required? NO. But I would say highly recommended to keep items from getting into the drains. I would also screen the emergency drain "“ I have seen a snail go up out of the water. This is a comfort level call.

Emergency Drain
Required? No. It will work without, but I think you are asking for trouble. Once again this is a comfort call.

Ideas
If I read right almost everyone is using the larger (if two sizes) for the main drain and the smaller for the emergency drain. I think this is backwards. The main drain will be flow reduced so why not start with the smaller pipe (besides I bet the valve will be cheaper). If the smaller drain can not handle the flow it will not work for the emergency drain any way. Also the larger drain will be less noisy since air will not make as big a difference (larger flow before the vortex forms).

Several people are using the emergency drain to help level the system. Is this safe - another thread started by BeanAnimal say to then add a 3 drain for emergency. Do you need the third drain comfort call once a gain. A simple solution for thos with only two bulkheads is to place a pipe from the overflow to the sump (with a valve). Use this as you main drain, the first bulkhead can be for level control and the third for emergency. If you do this you will have to restart the siphon any time the siphon is broken (power failure), but you do have a noisy back up to tell you. The whole idea behind this is that it is easier to keep the water level steady in the overflow.

Two Drains "“ Over Flows
This is pure theory, but may explain why some people are having problems.

I do not think that two drains can have different flow rates unless one is to the top of the overflow. Assuming a level tank half the water will go into each overflow. So if they do not both drain half the water then one should eventually fill up. I said it was theory :) Also two drains are hard to adjust (so I have read), so I think the best advice is to tie them together before the gate valve.

Teeing Drain to 2 Locations
This is very hard to adjust. People have done it by gating one of the tees. Also both drains should be in the water for silence so both levels will need to be the same. Despite this I have read of people having one their fuges lower than the sump and/or the other way around. I guess that the water picked the easiest path and then created a venture that sucks the water out of the other container. Unless you want to fine tuning I do not think this is recommended.

Sump Level
I think that when you adjust the vavle ,if the water level above the pump is not constant it should be adjusted at the highest water level. As evaporation takes places the pump will have a slightly higher head and a little less water will flow into the tank. The level in the overflow will drop some. Either you will hear your pump run dry or the siphon will start sucking air. Either would mean to look at system.

Gate Valve Location
More theory here. If the discharge end is submerged I am not sure it makes a difference. Let's assume that it is not and the flow is slow enough or the pipe large enough that air enters. This will break the siphon for anything below the gate and decrease the flow. So I think in general the best place for the valve is a close to the pump as is reasonable.

Guide lines
  • Use the smaller pipe for the main drain
  • Keep the drain return simple and as strait as possible
  • Gate valve close to sump
  • Drain into a bucket (fixed water level) to keep the output level constant.
  • Emergency drain is above the water; you get splash warning that something is wrong.
  • Think about on over the top siphon (if emergency will be a height regulator).
  • Two drains should be tied before the gating valve
  • Teeing the drain to a sump a fuge is not recommended
  • Water level above pump should be constant
So do people agree with these guide lines? Was this helpful? Also everyone always want pictures "“ which have been the most helpful I will try and post them with credits to the original poster. Is that allowed to repost some else's picture?


OK... I'm not really sure why you are trying to reinvent the wheel. We all love to play with stuff I guess. You are going by some faulty assumptions and coming to some wrong conclusions.

First.... AFAIK.... there is no way this will work with a hang on back overflow. Even if some one said it did, there is no way I would ever trust it.

If you go back to the very first post, Herbie explains what this is and why it is. He did a lot of testing before he posted. Tons of people have used it as directed with great success. Why mess with great success?

This method is for drilled Reef Ready tanks. If we are free to drill what ever we want, then we could set up a better one, or go with a Bean Animal one. But this is for drilled reef tanks that are so prevalent in this hobby.

No matter how much debate around the subject, the Herbie method IS NOT a siphon. Has nothing to do with a siphon. Is it a simply drain like any simple drain. It is at the bottom of a tank. Open the valve and it drains. Like pulling a plug in a bath tub, or unscrewing the oil drain on your car's oil pan.

A siphon uses the fact that space can't be occupied by nothing. Falling water will LIFT water above a level. This is not a siphon. If air gets in, it does not "break" suction. It will continue to drain air or not. No water is being lifted. It is that lift that air will stop.

The emergency drain is a insurance thing. It is not mandatory as long as a dry floor is not mandatory for you. Herbie used the big drain bulkhead in a drilled tank because that is what will flow the most. 100% blockage of this line is quite hard to imaging. The drain will flow some water even with a snail in the valve. The emergency drain is there as back up. The chance that both will not flow what the return pump is putting out is next to zero.

Herbie did tests on his system and found with the gate valve closed 100%, the emergency drain easily handled the full amount of flow. So, there is absolutely no need at all to use the small bulkhead for the normal drain. USE the LARGE bulkhead for the normal, and the emergency should be the small.

I tee my drain to my fuge. What I found out is with the gate valve between the fuge and the outlet, it will set up a siphon. Yes... a true siphon. It pulled all my water out of my fuge. Putting the gate valve before the fuge/outlet cured the problem and both do fine.

The gate valve does not need to be at the sump. Plenty of people put it right under their tank.

People have run into problems with dual overflows. Not sure why. Seems hard to keep tuned. I don't see how if they both come to a larger line with one gate valve. I don't have dual overflows though and have not looked into problems.

Yes you need a stand pipe. There is no reason to drain your whole overflow box. Plus, some might have a leak in their overflow box and might continue to loose water in a power outage. A stand pipe ensures a level. No point in not using one. There was a lot of safety built in to this system for trouble free and restfull nights. No need to not use all of them.

Yes there are some that do not use emergency drains. I would not do that. I want a back up.

I have plenty of turns and bends in my drain going to my closet. It does not matter as long as you have the right size pipe to flow the water. I oversized all my piping.

I have read perhaps 75% of this thread. At least read more of it and see people's experience with it before posting a rewite for someone to read and do. I realize you intentions are probably good, but know why you are changing something before you change it.
 
Powerman,

I am not trying to reinvent the wheel, I am trying to summarize for the next person so they do not have to go through all 39 pages to find an answer. I would love to get it right so please help where it is wrong. Please the rest of you tell me where I am wrong.

HOB - someone in either this thread of BeanAnimal's tried it. It could work if you could keep the differential enough, but most HOBs are not built that way. If the HOB was 24 inches deep it could work.

I would disagree about a siphon. Isn't the system tuned until no air is allowed into the main over flow. I think that makes it a siphoh.
Orignailly posted by PowermanKW
A siphon uses the fact that space can't be occupied by nothing. Falling water will LIFT water above a level. This is not a siphon. If air gets in, it does not "break" suction. It will continue to drain air or not. No water is being lifted. It is that lift that air will stop.
This is not the definition of a pyphon. From Webster's.com
a tube bent to form two legs of unequal length by which a liquid can be transferred to a lower level over an intermediate elevation by the pressure of the atmosphere in forcing the liquid up the shorter branch of the tube immersed in it while the excess of weight of the liquid in the longer branch when once filled causes a continuous flow
The main drain is being limted by a valve. So why not use the smaller drain first. Save the larger one for unblocked flow. But yes it will work either way. So what do the rest of you people think.

I don't say you can't tee the output. Just that it may be harder to adjust for so someone that does not understand the system. They may want to avoid this step. Maybe I need to make that clearer?

There is a reason to place the gate lower. BeanAnimal described it very well, but I can't remeber where. I beleive that it was easier to get all the air out of the main drain, which is required to make this work.

Maybe I need to reword the tying of two output together - do you have a suggestion.

You yourself say a stand pipe is not required. I thought I was pretty clear why it is used.

You mentioned a lot of people are adapting eisting systems. That is what I am doing. A smooth flow is critical. I use clear tubing (maybe not the best but to each his own). I cut 2 feet off to get rid of some bends. I went from an overflowing overflow to one 6 inches deep. My next adaption would force me to buy a new bulkhead an replumb everything - I may have to.

Please note that I read this whole thread before I wrote this and most of BeanAnimals (6 pages left out of 75). I also posted a similiar post there and someone said I summed it up quit well. That is what I am trying to do so if my summary is wrong let me know. I am not the bet writer, but I thought the summary was pretty good.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15601815#post15601815 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheFishMan65
Powerman,

I am not trying to reinvent the wheel, I am trying to summarize for the next person so they do not have to go through all 39 pages to find an answer. I would love to get it right so please help where it is wrong. Please the rest of you tell me where I am wrong.


OK, fair enough. However, a summary summerizes the system. I would suggest you not purpose changes in the system or at least put it out as such. Using different drains, putting the valve at the sump, straight lines, are changes to the system. Those are not needed. Just keep the summary simple.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15601815#post15601815 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheFishMan65
HOB - someone in either this thread of BeanAnimal's tried it. It could work if you could keep the differential enough, but most HOBs are not built that way. If the HOB was 24 inches deep it could work.


OK, this is not BeanAnimals design and the two are not similar. His actually does use a siphon, this does not. Modificatios to this system are done and should be discussed, but don't put it in a summary. To couple a siphon overflow with a drain that works on head pressure with a pump driving it all is asking for trouble. I have not looked into it much since that is not the system I have, but as was originally mentioned by Herbie, this is for drilled reef ready tanks, not for ones with siphon overflows. So we are getting off the script at this point.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15601815#post15601815 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheFishMan65
I would disagree about a siphon. Isn't the system tuned until no air is allowed into the main over flow. I think that makes it a siphoh.

This is not the definition of a pyphon. From Webster's.com


The absence of air has nothing to do with making a siphon. A tank full of water has no air, it is not a siphon. That elevation Webster is talking about is the lift I was talking about. You lift water up one side of a bent tube with the weight of the water on the other side providing the suction to lift water. Where is the bent tube in this example. Where is the change or lift of water? There is none. It is a simple tank of water, with a simple drain. air in it or not it will drain no matter what and nothing is going to stop that draining until someone closes the drain or the water runs out. Not a siphon at all.

The reason I am sticking on a point, is that you have made it of importance to tune the air out for it to work. You can have all the air you want and it will still drain. It will just be noisy. You keep the water level above the drain to keep it quiet. Not to keep a siphon going. The lack of air is what makes this set up silent and keeps bubbles out of your sump.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15601815#post15601815 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheFishMan65
The main drain is being limted by a valve. So why not use the smaller drain first. Save the larger one for unblocked flow. But yes it will work either way. So what do the rest of you people think.


Because the bigger drain can handle more flow, and I use that added flow. The limiting factor in my tank is the actual overflow grate. I can pump more water than I can drain. So I want that turn over. The Emergency is just that. I have flushed a snail down my line and had to open the valve to get it out. The emergency handled the blockage no problem. But in my system, my emergency can't handle what I am putting in my tank. Then again, the chance of my normal getting 100% blocked are almost zero. Especially since I'm keeping the snails out, and as was suggested, every so often I open my valve wide and flush it out.

The other reason you don't want the smaller line is you have a smaller diameter to use to adjust level. What if the gate is close to wide open. Flow is not linnear on a gate valve. Wide open is wide open, but do you have enough adjustment left in the valve to use? With a larger pipe and valve, you know you will always have enough usable adjustment.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15601815#post15601815 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheFishMan65
I don't say you can't tee the output. Just that it may be harder to adjust for so someone that does not understand the system. They may want to avoid this step. Maybe I need to make that clearer?


Then don't summerize not to do, summarize what the concerns are. I tee off to my sump and my fuge, but is has to be a certain way. I have zero issues with tuning and can split as much as I want to my fuge and sump. It works fine.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15601815#post15601815 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheFishMan65
There is a reason to place the gate lower. BeanAnimal described it very well, but I can't remeber where. I beleive that it was easier to get all the air out of the main drain, which is required to make this work.


But this is not beanAnimal's system. It is Herbie's system. And quite a few people put the valve where ever it goes. What drives the system is the head pressure through the valve causing an equilbrium between hight and flow. A valve right under the tank still has 20 inches of head to work with. An equilibrium will be reached.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15601815#post15601815 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheFishMan65

You yourself say a stand pipe is not required. I thought I was pretty clear why it is used.


Required and recommended are not the same. It isn't required. It is very much recommended unless you have plenty of room for all that water. Most don't.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15601815#post15601815 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheFishMan65
You mentioned a lot of people are adapting eisting systems. That is what I am doing. A smooth flow is critical. I use clear tubing (maybe not the best but to each his own). I cut 2 feet off to get rid of some bends. I went from an overflowing overflow to one 6 inches deep. My next adaption would force me to buy a new bulkhead an replumb everything - I may have to.


I would not quite say a smoth flow is "critical". All that is critical is that you can drain as much as you are supplying. I oversized everything. 1.5 inch drain line off my 1" drain bulkhead. I could probably add 10 elbows to it and still flow plenty.

Obviously, you always want smooth as possible, and remove as much resistance as you can. But "critical" is subjective. It might lead some to conclude that if they do not have a straight shot to the sump they can't use this setup which is not the case at all.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15601815#post15601815 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheFishMan65
Please note that I read this whole thread before I wrote this and most of BeanAnimals (6 pages left out of 75). I also posted a similiar post there and someone said I summed it up quit well. That is what I am trying to do so if my summary is wrong let me know. I am not the bet writer, but I thought the summary was pretty good.

Thats cool. You are picking a good time. The post count on this thread is close to 1000 which will split it again. If you get a good summary, when the thread splits, you could pop it up on page one and keep the ball rolling. Stick to the facts, keep it simple, and if anyone has a question or want to modify it some way, they will post and someone will share their experience. It is cool you are taking the time to put it up. Sorry if I'm too critical. I am happy with my set up and will help if we do something for the split.

Cheers.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15606883#post15606883 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PowermanKW
To couple a siphon overflow with a drain that works on head pressure with a pump driving it all is asking for trouble.

Since I just set this up recently on one of my tanks, I'm a little worried now.

I use a dual HOB overflow, with the main drain having no standpipe and the emergency drain having a standpipe just a touch higher than the middle compartment for the U-tubes.

I've got the water level dialed in so it just reaches the height of the emergency drain standpipe, and it's been rock solid.
When I close the valve on the main drain colpletely, the emergency drain takes over, and the water level in the tank stays the same.

I have a little grid over the main drain, to prevent anything large to block it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15606921#post15606921 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by siskiou
Since I just set this up recently on one of my tanks, I'm a little worried now.

I use a dual HOB overflow, with the main drain having no standpipe and the emergency drain having a standpipe just a touch higher than the middle compartment for the U-tubes.

I've got the water level dialed in so it just reaches the height of the emergency drain standpipe, and it's been rock solid.
When I close the valve on the main drain colpletely, the emergency drain takes over, and the water level in the tank stays the same.

I have a little grid over the main drain, to prevent anything large to block it.

Perhaps I should not not talk about things I do not know about. Seems too complicated to me.

However, you do like many. Instead of setting the water level and allowing variation, you set level right up to the emergency drain and let a little trickle over. I actually tried to run mine that way but did not see the need.

But for you , you do maintain a constant level there fore a constant level for the overflow so that would probably be the most stable way to do it. And you tested for failure so that is good too.
 
siskiou:
If you tested it you are probably okay. I will try and explain better. Some HOBs use a siphon to get the water from the main tank to the filter. As the filter starts to fill up the difference in water levels is less so the water slows down from tank to filter. At some point it will slow to a point where it is slower than the water coming into the tank. At this point if the sump doesn't run dry you will over flow the tank, but possibly not the HOB.

The catch with HOBs is that the siphon from the tank to the filter must be able to handle the maximum water flow in the worst case a high level of water in the filter (water flowing down the emergency drain).

Did I explain this well enough? If not I will try again.

PowermanKW
Am I getting this right? I think you don't like my guidelines in the sense you don't think they are representative. Are the descriptions above correct?

I would disagree that the Herbie and BeanAnimal are not similar. I think they both (Bean and Herbie) say they are. BeanAnimal just added a durso to make it easier to tune.

Siphon - yeah we are both right. My example doesn't raise it up. Your example was more of a venturi using high pressure water to create a suction and move water between to buckets. So pardon my wording below, but I alread had it written.
This is tough so please don't take it the wrong way.
Originally posted by PowerMankw
Because the bigger drain can handle more flow, and I use that added flow. The limiting factor in my tank is the actual overflow grate. I can pump more water than I can drain. So I want that turn over. The Emergency is just that. I have flushed a snail down my line and had to open the valve to get it out. The emergency handled the blockage no problem. But in my system, my emergency can't handle what I am putting in my tank.
Sorry but this makes no sense first you say a bigger pipe can take more. Then you say the larger emergency drain can't handle what you are feeding into the tank.

This is possible. What (I think) is happening is that smaller pipe gets covered with water it creates a siphon a siphon can flow more water that a pipe open to the air.

A brief note
When water enters a siphon, it is accelerated by gravity (32ft/sec^2). It enters the pipe with zero speed. One second later it exits at 32 ft/sec. Now something has to enter the pipe. If air is available it is much easier to move so it is sucked in (vortex) and an equilibrium is reached. If no air is available water will be sucked in at 32 ft/sec and it accelerates to 64 ft/sec. The limiting factor to how much water you can get down the pipe is resistance from the pipe (smoothness of the walls, bends, etc.), viscosity of the liquid, and a whole bunch of other variables.

So back to the discussion, once the main drain is covered with water it sucks water in rather than air. I think that the problem maybe that the emergency over flow is too high and can not get covered with water to create the siphon and flow more water. How far below the water line is the emergency drain? As a test, is it possible to pull out of the emergency drain standpipe (I am assuming a RR with overflow box and floor bulkheads)? What I expect to happen would be that it will drain the water. Then it will start to create a full siphon. The siphon will drain the water and allow air in to the pipe (breaking the siphon). The overflow will fill up again and create a full siphon and drain. This should repeat. If not let me know "“ you really want the emergency drain to handle the full flow (as unlikely as it is).
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15608088#post15608088 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheFishMan65

PowermanKW

Siphon - yeah we are both right. My example doesn't raise it up. Your example was more of a venturi using high pressure water to create a suction and move water between to buckets. So pardon my wording below, but I alread had it written.
This is tough so please don't take it the wrong way.
A venturi is a completely different principle and I was not making any such comparison. When a convergent nozzle is coupled with a divergent nozzle to increase the velocity of a fluid, it creates a low pressure area that can be used for suction. The venturi principle has nothing to do with this.

Sorry but this makes no sense first you say a bigger pipe can take more. Then you say the larger emergency drain can't handle what you are feeding into the tank.

In Herbie's system, he uses the large bulkhead as the "normal" drain, and the smaller bulkhead that was the return line as the "emergency" drain. That is what I did. So for now on there is the normal and emergency. I never said the "larger" emergency.

I increased the size of my return lines and my drain lines. The only restriction in my drain is the bulkhead fitting itself. My stand pipes, drain lines, and return piping are all bigger. I can return much more from my 1262 than my overflow grate will flow. It backs up into my tank. So I throttle it. I have not done a test to find out if my emergency drain will handle all the flow, because I don't feel it is likely my normal will ever be plugged 100%.

This is possible. What (I think) is happening is that smaller pipe gets covered with water it creates a siphon a siphon can flow more water that a pipe open to the air.

There is NO siphon. It simply drains from gravity. A full pipe will flow more water than one half full of air. Period. a 3/4 inch stand pipe for my emergency will flow so much full. Siphon has nothing to do with anything. Either the pipe is full or it isn't. There is no lift. There is not suction.

A brief note
When water enters a siphon, it is accelerated by gravity (32ft/sec^2). It enters the pipe with zero speed. One second later it exits at 32 ft/sec. Now something has to enter the pipe. If air is available it is much easier to move so it is sucked in (vortex) and an equilibrium is reached. If no air is available water will be sucked in at 32 ft/sec and it accelerates to 64 ft/sec. The limiting factor to how much water you can get down the pipe is resistance from the pipe (smoothness of the walls, bends, etc.), viscosity of the liquid, and a whole bunch of other variables.

For a siphon sure. If it was in true free fall. But we don't have a siphon. Water will fall at the rate of gravitational acceleration. But the flow is restricted by the gate valve. So it is not in free fall. Only the head pressure above the valve, and the opening in the valve is driving the flow. It is not in free fall. It is in free fall if you start a siphon and let it fall to the floor. 4 feet.

So back to the discussion, once the main drain is covered with water it sucks water in rather than air. I think that the problem maybe that the emergency over flow is too high and can not get covered with water to create the siphon and flow more water.

There is no suction. It does not suck, it drains. The gate valve has 3 foot of head pressure on it and water flows. A siphon does indeed flow more water than a drain. And it flows more proportional the distance the water on the other side of the bend falls. Herbie is a drain. It is not a siphon.

How far below the water line is the emergency drain? As a test, is it possible to pull out of the emergency drain standpipe (I am assuming a RR with overflow box and floor bulkheads)? What I expect to happen would be that it will drain the water. Then it will start to create a full siphon. The siphon will drain the water and allow air in to the pipe (breaking the siphon). The overflow will fill up again and create a full siphon and drain. This should repeat. If not let me know "“ you really want the emergency drain to handle the full flow (as unlikely as it is).

You are making this much more complicated than it needs to be. It is NOT a siphon. The drain will drain the capacity of the size of pipe. It will not flow a certain amount, then flow more, then drain, then fill up again, then drain. It will drain to the capacity of the line PERIOD. If there is enough flow to fill the line then it will remain full. If it can't flow enough, it will back up. As it backs up, head pressure will increase. Then you do not have free fall, you have head pressure driving more flow. You will reach a equilibrium at some point that head pressure will flow the equal of return. A 1" line will flow more water at 30 psi, than one at .5 psi. Whether or not that equilibrium is reached before it overflows the tank is TBD.
 
I am not sure how to convince you that a vertical pipe (drain) that does not have a vortex will flow significantly more water than one with a vortex. I have been calling the first a siphon (becuase that is what they call it on BeanAnimals thread).

I think, you agreed a siphon will suck from my example earlier. I don't rember if Herbie design placed the output of the drain under water, but I think it did. Place the gate up at the top, water will fall through the gate and accelerate. One second later it hits the bottom, no air escapes becuase both ends are submerged in water. So water has to be sucked in at the top at 32 ft/sec, and it accelerates. I believe what is happening is that the gate changes the resistance and prevents the water from accelerating as fast as an open pipe.

What we are doing is just creating a siphon with a smaller pipe (by gating it back) to match the output from the water coming in.
 
Actually I just reread your post powerman, the big issue here here seems that you don't think a drain will suck. Another example of a drain sucking is the vortex formed as the wate draining sucks in air. That is one of the noises we are trying to get rid of. Herbie did this by using the gate to raise the water level above the point where a vertex is formed.
 
Thanks to both of you for the input on the HOB situation.
Sounds like mine works, because I have the level set in a way that it doesn't rise significantly when the emergency drain needs to take over.
 
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