NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!

If you do go the route of braided nylon try and avoid the clear tubing, using those allows light to enter and will actually promote and increase algea growth. Something else you can look at is FlexSpa or flexible PVC. A lot of HD's sell it and can be used with regular PVC fictures.
 
I use the Flex PVC, in mine and it works great and very easy to slip glue to standard pvc for fittings. I use it for the pump returning out of the sump up to the top of the tank and then into standard pvc to split out where I need it. This way when I can move the pump around as I need to without a union. I also like it because I then have less 90's that would decrease the amount of flow I have.
 
Does anyone have photos of their return?

Thank you dan for your comments.

If I used a 3/4" thread to slip adapter to attach to my Ehiem 1260 and ran flex pvc straight up the back of the tank... How would I get the water over the lip of the tank?
 
Mrbeachbum2 said:
How would I get the water over the lip of the tank?
Click to expand...

You are opening up the proverbial can of worms with that question. There really is no "best" method. Everybody does it a bit different it really depends on your tank, setup, aesthetics and so on.

Some might tell you to drill and plumb it through the back with a bulk head or even split it and put two holes in the back or you can keep it super simple and just run a U over the top and have it return in the tank. Just keep this in mind, the longer and higher you run the plumbing the less flow you get at the end.

Mine will be running up through the over-flow, then split so I have dual returns in the tank to help increase and even out the flow.
 
DanMgy said:
You are opening up the proverbial can of worms with that question. There really is no "best" method. Everybody does it a bit different it really depends on your tank, setup, aesthetics and so on.

Some might tell you to drill and plumb it through the back with a bulk head or even split it and put two holes in the back or you can keep it super simple and just run a U over the top and have it return in the tank. Just keep this in mind, the longer and higher you run the plumbing the less flow you get at the end.

Mine will be running up through the over-flow, then split so I have dual returns in the tank to help increase and even out the flow.
Click to expand...


The tank is currently running, so drilling isn't an option. What method would you go about if you wanted the simple U over the top return? Would you utilize that plastic piece I had in that photo in an earlier post?
 
Rhodes19's system is a very simple and basic system that would be fairly easy to setup.

Mrbeachbum2 said:
Did you drill holes in the pvc return to stop a siphon when the power goes out?
Click to expand...

In his example you would drill the hole(s) in either the lock-line or the PVC Tee fixture. The objective is to have the siphon break hole(s) just below the water line. So it would be either the two lock-lines or the PVC Tee, whichever is easier and below the waterline. If it is above the water line you are going to have a tiny hole squirting out water.
 
On the drain side, should my emergency plumbing be above the water about 1" so I can hear splashing if the emergency side is being used?
 
Mrbeachbum2 said:
What type of plumbing is on the return? Did you drill holes in the pvc return to stop a siphon when the power goes out?
Click to expand...

Hi Mrbeachbum2,

My initial plumbing set up was pvc back to the overflows but when I switched to the Herbie method, I had to cut the pvc but I left some above a union joint and ball valve and capped it with a barb. From there I ran some clear tubing (highly recommend braided of flex instead) to the back of the tank and connected it to a U shape pvc so it would hang over the top and then tied it into a T fitting. My first U shape return had a 1/8" hole drilled into it for a siphon break but it sprayed a lot of water and I was getting a lot of salt creep build up. The second and current return does not have a siphon brake on it but I have my lockline just under the surface of the water so when I loose power or turn the pump of for feeding/maintenance I get very little siphon. I don't know it that is the smartest thing to do but it works. To help reduce a chance of flooding, I made sure to mark the max water level in my sump with the power off and all lines drained that way I won't over fill. HTH
 
So I'm in the planning out stages of my 120g mixed reef tank. It has 2 overflows with 2 holes in in each corner overflow. I plan on utilizing the Herbie method. Here is my current plan as far as plumbing goes:
hHtO9zIR_original.png

*
I think I will easily get enough siphon from my main drain to match my Mag 9.5. So I'm looking to only do one main siphon drain. I have the Emergency drain placed in the other Corner overflow. I have the 2 return holes used as they are supposed to be. It seems like this should work out well. A couple quick questions though"¦
*
I have my Fuge away from my Skimmer so that I manually set the amount of flow I have in it. Are the two gate valves on the main drains line going to cause any issues in the way of calibrating the plumbing to match my pump? I don't think it should be an issues, but it might take a littler while longer to get to the right spot.
*
Another question: I planned on having more water volume in the fuge area (hence the higher wall). From what I understand is that this might cause the plumbing to siphon water out of my fuge and send it to my skimmer area until they are of equal level. Is this true? And is there a work around for it (other then making bother areas in the sump have the same water height)?
*
My idea is to take out the return pipe in the corner over flow that has my main drain in it. Put a second main drain in there. However this drain will be a much thinner PVC pipe and will be slightly shorter then my Main drain. I will use this smaller drain to take water to my fuge and adjust it (with its own gate valve) till I get the flow I want in the fuge. Then I will have my larger/slightly taller main drain take water just to my skimmer area. I will just have to adjust the larger/taller drain to make up for the difference between the smaller/short drain and my mag 9.5. I think this could work if there is no alternative.
 
In your picture the right hand overflow box will have stangnant water sitting in it. It comes in over the top and fills up, but can never leave. Stagnant water as I understand is a bad idea.

Powermankw (if I rmember the name correctly) had a problem siphoning out the fuge. I do not understand how he fixed the problem. So it maybe an issue. You might be better of teeing from the main return.

The secondary main drain may work, but read the bean animal design it may work better for the second pipe. You may want to model this after his open channel.

Also the emergency is in the second overflow. It must be taller than the overflow or it will take in water. Assuming a level tank water will flow into both overflows. One will fill up and the other has a drain. So will the emergency have room to create a siphon if the main drain clogs? Or will a vortex form and allow the water to go over the edge of the tank.
 
TheFishMan65 said:
In your picture the right hand overflow box will have stangnant water sitting in it. It comes in over the top and fills up, but can never leave. Stagnant water as I understand is a bad idea.

Powermankw (if I rmember the name correctly) had a problem siphoning out the fuge. I do not understand how he fixed the problem. So it maybe an issue. You might be better of teeing from the main return.

The secondary main drain may work, but read the bean animal design it may work better for the second pipe. You may want to model this after his open channel.

Also the emergency is in the second overflow. It must be taller than the overflow or it will take in water. Assuming a level tank water will flow into both overflows. One will fill up and the other has a drain. So will the emergency have room to create a siphon if the main drain clogs? Or will a vortex form and allow the water to go over the edge of the tank.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input.

I didn't even think about the stagnant water and the fact that the return pipe would have to be above the overflow box. I'd have to double check and see how much room I have between the top of my overflow and my tank. But I doubt it will be enough to safely start a siphon.

Tee'in off the return pipe might be the easiest route (or making the lvls equal in the sump). Back to the drawing board!

Is there a diagram of the bean animal design in a dual corner overflow system?
 
I don't think so. People have posted, but I don't recall the answer f whether or not it can be done. Seems like it could be done if you used all 4 pipes for drains..
 
Okay here is a revised diagram. I altered it to add a drain to the other overflow to solve the stagnant water issue. I tee'd off the return to solve the fuge issue.
pKOx_LnW_original.png


How low should I have the drain pipes in my overflows? And how much height diff should I have between my drain and emergency pipes?
 
The stand pipe on the main drain is optional. It does 2 things that I can remember.
1) Raises the water level in the overflow to shorten the water fall (keeps it quieter)
2) Limits the amount of water that can go into the sump on a power failure.
The emergency must be low enough to create a siphon in the event of a complete main drain clog. It only needs to be a 1/4 higher than the main drain.

Sounds simple! However, there have been reports of variation in height of the water in the overflow. Possible causes could be, crud build up, pump variation, evaporation, snail over the drain, etc. So if the water goes up in the overflow then water goes down the emergency - pronounced noise. On the other hand if the level goes down the main drain my start to create a cortex - funny it is pronounced the same way noise. The more of a height difference between the main drain and the emergence the more allowance you have for the above mentioned water variations.

So what would I do? Start with the emrgency and set it maybe a 1/2 inch below the overlow top. Block the main drain with the valve and see if you can create the siphon. Depending on the reserve you may need to take some water out of the fuge. You say "but if the reserve runs dry what am I worried about?" Unlikely, but how about a broken of leaking baffle - better safe than sorry. Once the emergency is set cut the main drain 2 inches below that. If you have trouble finding a balance point then cut 1/4-1/2 inch off the main drain and try again.

PS. Tomoatoes don't grow in a fuge - they need more light :)
 
Hahahaha. I guess my lr/chaeto kinda looks like tomatoes. Thanks a bunch for your help man! I will probably try thr technique you said with a design like my picture has..
 
You can get a PVC pipe that'll allow you to adjust the emergency pipe. I just blanked on the name but i'll remember is soon.

I have my main flow about 6 inches from bottom of the glass.
 
On your main drain, do you plan to use the same size pipe before and after the gate valve? Would there be any benefit going up 1 size after the gate valve?
 
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