S13<3
KeepItSuperSimple
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NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!
- Thread starter Herbie
- Start date
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BrassMonkey
Member
will post ya up a pic of my 40b with herbie overflow. i use a rio 1800 but the sump is in my closet so it travels 12 ft long then 5 ft tall.
BrassMonkey
Member
btw id want double whatever this rio puts out
Rhodes19
New member
That should work. I wouldn't go bigger on the pump though, you might over power the 3/4" max flow rate. HTH
mnestroy
Active member
You can use a 6 inch siphon drain if you want... it should be restricted with a gate valve so you can't really have to large of a siphon drain. You will adjust the gate valve to match the amount of water your return pump is throwing at it.
I'm not so sure what "you're" saying is correct. I don't believe lowering the overflow teeth is required. If the emergency overflow is set above the teeth and the main water level in the tank, I think the emergency overflow would function just as if it were in the same overflow column. The principle should be the same, whether or not the E-drain is in the same overflow column or not.
For example, say the middle and right column each have full siphons...the left column could have an emergency standpipe at a height just above the bottom of the overflow teeth and higher than the tank water.
The main downside I see with this is that the water in the emergency overflow column would be stagnant.
Has anyone actually tried this? With all the naysayers Herbie first encountered (see the first several pages of his initial thread), I'm not going to give up so easily...even if I have to be the guinea pig with the wet floors.:beer:
das75
New member
Still could do a Herbie.
I've got 2 overflows thought each has multiple holes, I only have 1 -2" drain in each but still running a successful Herbie since last October at about 2000gph.
One overflow is the primary, second chamber is the backup. Right now the second chamber is full of water and the emergency level is the height of the standpipe inside. I have thought would be easy enough to set the emergency level by raising the weir height. In your case could do by blocking the slots in your weir. Would do the same with the third chamber.
Negative with my method of having the second chamber wet, is the water sits there and may go stagnant. Gotten some flow through by drilling a hole in the side of the standpipe.
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TheFishMan65
New member
aldiaz33
Consider throwing a power head in the weir with the emergency. This will circulate the water in the weir and it won't got stagnant.
Consider throwing a power head in the weir with the emergency. This will circulate the water in the weir and it won't got stagnant.
Rhodes19
New member
I think its do able. You could use one overflow to the sump, one for the return, and one for the emergency. You could also tie 2 of the overflows together to one gate valve, the 3rd overflow as an emergency, and have the return go over the back. I think you have several different options. Take into account how much water your pump is pushing as well. 2" bulkheads can pass a lot of water.
S13<3
KeepItSuperSimple
is ther a certain size the overflow has to be?
does it matter where i put the valve? closer to the tank/sump?
should the drains be submerged under water to keep things quiet?
does the water going into the overflow box make noise? how do u quiet it?
also how do i come up with the heights for the standpipes in the overflow box?
does it matter where i put the valve? closer to the tank/sump?
should the drains be submerged under water to keep things quiet?
does the water going into the overflow box make noise? how do u quiet it?
also how do i come up with the heights for the standpipes in the overflow box?
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TheFishMan65
New member
Size depends on the size of the tank and flow rates
valve should be closer to the sump, but only matters on long runs
submerged about 1 inch
yes, but you can make it quiter by limiting the distance the water falls
trial and error
valve should be closer to the sump, but only matters on long runs
submerged about 1 inch
yes, but you can make it quiter by limiting the distance the water falls
trial and error
mnestroy
Active member
The concept is this... there are two drains, one that will be completely under water on both ends 100% of the time. This drain will be controlled by using a gatevalve.
The other drain is the opposite, it will be above water on both ends and not be restricted at all. This should be higher than the first drain mentioned incase the firstdrain gets backed up the water has a place to drain into your sump, instead of over the edge of your tank.
The 2nd drain can be pretty much level with the teeth of your overflow, or maybe a tad less...
The water going into the overflow box will be controlled by the gate valve on the first drain, the more you restrict the flow the higher the water level will raise and the less splashing there will be in your overflow. The height you place your first drain is not super critical, because the gate valve is what will controll the level (so i'd place the drain between the 1/2 and 1/3 level)
Excellent idea. Thanks for the tip.
Excellent ideas that I hadn't thought of. Tuning the two overflows for separate full siphons was definitely tough. Tying two of them together would probably make it a lot easier. I actually attached 90 degree elbows on the overflow into the sump, right below the water level and it's amazing how much quieter that made everything. I might just forget the full siphon all together.
S13<3
KeepItSuperSimple
thanks for all the info guys, seriously much appreciated. the tank is a 40br 1" drains, 3/4" return hung over the side, the over flow box is gonna be 14 5/8" high x 8" wide x 4" deep made from 1/4" acrylic, no teeth just straight over the top, im gonna round the inside edge with a router so the water sticks to the walls and hopefully eliminate splashing altogether, i really wanted an eheim 1260 but saw the "new" eheim 3000 which is $65 less and flows up to 792GPH!!!!!!!! my mind is pretty stuck on eheim as everyone and ther mother praises them as the most quiet and reliable pumps, o yeah almost forgot originally i was going to use a 20l as the sump but after making a cardboard mock up the tank fits under but ther isnt enough room between the stand post to put the sump in ther 
my fault for not accounting for this, im thinking of just using a 10g
do u guys see any problems with my plans so far? any advice or tips to make things easier?
my fault for not accounting for this, im thinking of just using a 10g do u guys see any problems with my plans so far? any advice or tips to make things easier?
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Thanks, this is very helpful. Couple questions if I may:
I'm planning on running a 2 tank system, tied to a common basement sump.
The first tank is a standard Marineland 70 Cube. It only has the 2 holes and I'm currently just running 300-400 gph via an Eheim with a completely silent durso overflow. I don't really need any more flow through this system and plan to keep this the same.
The second tank that's coming will be a 72 x 36 x 24" custom starfire tank, for which I'm planning the following in a small overflow in the left back corner:
1.5" drain, with standpipe halfway up and open completely with the output draining into a filter sock in the basement (but not submerged). There is a 10-12 ft drop to the sump.
1.5" emergency drain which will be at approximately 2" below the top of the tank (the water in the tank will be at 2.5-3" below the surface since this is a rimless tank with a wavebox).
1" return coming out of the same overflow aimed at the opposite corner of the tank.
I plan on putting about 1500-2000 gph through this. From what I understand, this should work and be very silent.
Does this sound like it will work? Am I missing anything?
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