NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!

[MikesReef83]

I'm putting a 1" to 3/4" reducer above and below my 3/4" bulkhead on my 90. This way the only restriction is the bulkhead itself and not the piping.

 

[MikesReef83]

Just finished plumbing the main and emergency drain to my basement sump. . Does the valve location look OK? Its a straight shot down from the tank bulkheads through the floor. Then you can see in the photo where I had to curve around my fuge to the sump.

 

[icechimpee]

yeah, that's what I was thinking. What is the flow rate for a maximized 3/4 inch though? Is that information available? Will be about 35 - 40 inches of draft.

http://www.beananimal.com/articles/hydraulics-for-the-aquarist.aspx


This may help.

 

[FastUno]

My 75g Aqueon overflow has a 1" drain & 3/4" return. Can I use the 1" drain as the emergency & add something like this siphon (but with 1" tubing)?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65yVr7DiDls

 

[reefid]

I have 110g main tank and 25g sump , planning to apply herbie overflow. I will be using 1262 as return pump, it will be T to a chiller. ( hopefuly 1262 put enough flow turn over)
My options
1. 1" drain and 1" emergency
2. 1.5 drain and 1.5" emergency
3. 1" drain and 1.5 " emergency
4. 1.5 " drain 1" emergency

I would to keep my options open, if my 1262 not able to put enough flow. Might get another one just for chiller.

Any help will be really great

Thanks

 

[Mark...]

You want the emergency as big or bigger than the drain. So #4 is a no-no.

 

[SGT_York]

Go 1.5" and 1.5"

there is no reason to use 1" if 1.5 is an option. Well $$$ there is a bit but not much.

 

[reefid]

Option 2 then thanks

 

[mrbnx]

I love the plumbing ideas that this community has come up with. I'm looking to do a manifold myself, and have used the Herbie method to quiet down some friends' tanks.

 

[FranktheTankTx]

Herbie = Both drains below sump's water line?

 

[bowfront]

Herbie = Both drains below sump's water line?

Look over the thread for more details but basically you use one drain under the sump water and adjusted by a preferably gate valve to create a complete syphon. The other drain is left slightly above the waterline but below the upper tank surface as an emergency drain if the primary needs help. If the secondary kicks in you need to assess and make adjustments.

 

[FranktheTankTx]

So this is incorrect?

It's a big thread - every now & then we need a re cap or summary.

 

[MidwesternTexan]

This is my version of overflow 'The Todd Overflow'

It's similar slighlty to this 2 pipe system.

It is/was NOT intended for use necessarily for use with the standard RR/bottom drilled tanks!
My tank is drilled near the top and has a DIY Coast to Coast overflow.

There are some similarities though, mainly because it uses 2 pipes. Beyond that, they are WAY different.
For instance, in the OP, he even states that his original system would NOT handle all the flow in the secondary, IF the siphon line were to become plugged.
Mine will, and way more flow too. It's a different system though as I said, and only similar b/c it's using 2 pipes.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2443814

 

[MidwesternTexan]

So this is incorrect?

It's a big thread - every now & then we need a re cap or summary.

IN that diagram:

Assuming The skimmer compartment level remains constant= as it should-

Why not have the pipes 1/4" unerwater? It will purge the air quicker, while still staying submerged.
I do this with my 2 pipe drain system, and in a power off/out, on start up- the secondary flow for around 2 minutes or less, while the primary is purging a bit of air at the valve, then the secondary basically shuts down and the siphon line handles all the flow.
My system makes no 'sucking' sound at any time- and I want and like it that way.

It's set it and forget it- needing no readjustments at power on, etc.

 

[sleepydoc]

So this is incorrect?

It's a big thread - every now & then we need a re cap or summary.

You missed the top half of the picture...

In short:
Main drain: Top and bottom are submerged. A [gate] valve is used on this so the flow through this pipe exactly matches the return pump flow. Herbie's original description had an extension with multiple perforations on it to prevent snails from clogging it. The bottom of this pipe should be near the surface of the sump water to allow it to efficiently purge air on startup.

Secondary (Emergency) Drain: This is above the surface of the water in the overflow. Ideally, the bottom will be above the water level in the sump, but this is somewhat less critical. The only time this kicks in is if the main drain clogs and cannot handle all the flow. Because of the design, water flowing in the backup drain will be noisy and alert you to the problem. Also note that this should be the same size or larger than your main drain.

Note - many people use a slightly bastardized version of this and run a small volume down the secondary drain. This makes the system easier to adjust but significantly less safe; when running it this manner, the main drain cannot handle all the flow and anything that clogs the secondary drain will cause a flood. In addition, since the secondary drain is at the surface instead of above it is much more prone to getting blocked by critters.

 

[CjBurden]

thanks herbie

thanks herbie

Would just like to say that I've been successfully using the herbie method for the last 4 years and it has worked flawlessly and silently the entire time. I'm going to switch over to a bean as that is what the new tank I bought is setup for but it's been really nice not hearin the gurgle I used to have from my durso.

I hiiiiighly recommend this method for anyone that has a two hole reef ready tank.

 

[sleepydoc]

Would just like to say that I've been successfully using the herbie method for the last 4 years and it has worked flawlessly and silently the entire time. I'm going to switch over to a bean as that is what the new tank I bought is setup for but it's been really nice not hearin the gurgle I used to have from my durso.

I hiiiiighly recommend this method for anyone that has a two hole reef ready tank.

The Herbie is a great technique, but to be implemented most effectively you need a significant height difference between the main drain and the emergency drain. This makes it perfect for the standard 'reef ready' tank with a corner overflow, but very imperfect for a tank with a coast to coast overflow. The coast to coast overflow only affords a small difference between the two drains, making it difficult to keep it 'tuned.' For this setup, drilling an extra hole and converting to a Beananimal overflow is a much better solution.

 

[FranktheTankTx]

You missed the top half of the picture...

In short:
Main drain: Top and bottom are submerged. A [gate] valve is used on this so the flow through this pipe exactly matches the return pump flow. Herbie's original description had an extension with multiple perforations on it to prevent snails from clogging it. The bottom of this pipe should be near the surface of the sump water to allow it to efficiently purge air on startup.

Secondary (Emergency) Drain: This is above the surface of the water in the overflow. Ideally, the bottom will be above the water level in the sump, but this is somewhat less critical. The only time this kicks in is if the main drain clogs and cannot handle all the flow. Because of the design, water flowing in the backup drain will be noisy and alert you to the problem. Also note that this should be the same size or larger than your main drain.

Note - many people use a slightly bastardized version of this and run a small volume down the secondary drain. This makes the system easier to adjust but significantly less safe; when running it this manner, the main drain cannot handle all the flow and anything that clogs the secondary drain will cause a flood. In addition, since the secondary drain is at the surface instead of above it is much more prone to getting blocked by critters.

This is a good re cap.

However, I have a couple questions.

1) Why shouldn't both drains be slightly submerged below sump's water line? Is the purpose of keeping the emergency drain above the sump's water line only to cause noise & alert the reefer to a problem?

2) Why shouldn't a strainer be used on emergency drain too? This would ensure nothing is inside the drain (snail).

 

[sleepydoc]

1) Why shouldn't both drains be slightly submerged below sump's water line? Is the purpose of keeping the emergency drain above the sump's water line only to cause noise & alert the reefer to a problem?

2 reasons: the noise that you mentioned and also to prevent anything from crawling/growing/accumulating from below. If only the bottom end is submerged, I readily admit that the likelihood of that happening is quite small, so keeping the end of the emergency drain above water is not a huge deal, IMHO.

2) Why shouldn't a strainer be used on emergency drain too? This would ensure nothing is inside the drain (snail).

Strainers generally serve to collect things (that is their purpose, after all,) and restrict flow. If the emergency drain is above the water level as pictured, a strainer should be completely unnecessary and would only serve to restrict flow.

If you are running a low flow through the emergency drain, then it would serve to prevent critters from crawling in, but would also collect algae and restrict flow, potentially to the point that the emergency drain couldn't handle the full flow if the primary became clogged; another reason why running water through the backup is risky.

 

[FranktheTankTx]

2 reasons: the noise that you mentioned and also to prevent anything from crawling/growing/accumulating from below. If only the bottom end is submerged, I readily admit that the likelihood of that happening is quite small, so keeping the end of the emergency drain above water is not a huge deal, IMHO.



Strainers generally serve to collect things (that is their purpose, after all,) and restrict flow. If the emergency drain is above the water level as pictured, a strainer should be completely unnecessary and would only serve to restrict flow.

If you are running a low flow through the emergency drain, then it would serve to prevent critters from crawling in, but would also collect algae and restrict flow, potentially to the point that the emergency drain couldn't handle the full flow if the primary became clogged; another reason why running water through the backup is risky.

Good stuff.

Let's talk return portion. I have plans to T return line & feed a manifold (2 reactors -carbon & gfo) & possibly a UV. I have 2 holes drilled for return. So 1 return line will be main return while 2nd feeds reactors & likely minimal return to DT.

Any issues with this concept?