Newbie Corner Feedback Thread

[Aquarist007]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13545767#post13545767 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AbraxasFrog
Hey all,

So when researching, I try to limit myself to one or two topics a day. Today I was looking at canister filters since WaterKeeper spoke very highly of them: for polishing water for a new tank setup, or to run additional media.

So, I realized that a HOB canister filter is cheap, but only processes small volumes - you can get the bigger ones but now were talking $$$. Since the canister filter isn't the main filtration, and may only be used to polish water or help abate the initial sandstorm, is it ok to go with a smaller model? It may not be quick but can still help right?

Thanks,

Zac

consider a phosban reactor by "two little fishes" and run carbon in it. The reactors themselves are about 35 dollars.
Running carbon as a fluidized media(like in the canister filters) is a very effective use of the whole media and produces noticable results overnight.
IMO it is a waste to buy a canister filter remove all the media and then run carbon in it--unless you have an old one hanging around

Here is some more info on them:
http://www.reefcentral.com/wp/?p=268

 

[AbraxasFrog]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13547001#post13547001 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur
consider a phosban reactor by "two little fishes" and run carbon in it. The reactors themselves are about 35 dollars.
Running carbon as a fluidized media(like in the canister filters) is a very effective use of the whole media and produces noticable results overnight.

Capn, if you were nearby I would bring an apple for the teacher. I actually have been working my way through your blogs as well "don't just buy one - get two" and have added the TLF phosban to my wish list.

Were you in the category of "run when needed" or do you run carbon/phosban 24/7? You have some very impressive refugiums and are showing good macro growth. By the way, how's the mangrove lately?

Zac

 

[Aquarist007]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13548593#post13548593 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AbraxasFrog
Capn, if you were nearby I would bring an apple for the teacher. I actually have been working my way through your blogs as well "don't just buy one - get two" and have added the TLF phosban to my wish list.

Were you in the category of "run when needed" or do you run carbon/phosban 24/7? You have some very impressive refugiums and are showing good macro growth. By the way, how's the mangrove lately?

Zac

thanks Zac but apples give me diaharia

I run carbon 24/7 and change it out every second week. Carbon can adsorb alot more organics then just the group that causes the yellowing in the water so its an asset to have it running all the time IMO
As far as phosban--with the two functional refugiums(the deep sand bed and macro aglae) I stopped running the phosban but in a system where you are getting nuisance alagae then it is good to run and change it out every 2-3 months.
However in the case of all unwanted algae you need to get at the source of the nutrients causing the algae growth, curb it and then running the phosban reactor will be more effecient.

BTW
Since I stopped running the phosban the macro algae(chaeto) is doing better.

 

[Paul B]

Heck, I have a 400 gph canister and it only cost $49. You must be looking a Eheims, Zac.

Instead of running a tank, I may just put all my animals in a big canister filter and let it run around itself.

 

[Aquarist007]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13549494#post13549494 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Paul B
Instead of running a tank, I may just put all my animals in a big canister filter and let it run around itself.

you do realize if you suggest it Paul---someone's gonna try it:rollface:

 

[mikethomas]

Hi Tom, regarding to Di water, someone told me that if I don't use the Di constantly (since I only need about 20 gallons/week), the resin will went bad and re-act differently( make the water worse). Is this true?
_____________________________________________________________
mike


Sorry you may not advertise here~dc

 

[Paul B]

you do realize if you suggest it Paul---someone's gonna try it

Yeah, then they may start putting bottles and cans in there too.
How wierd that would be

 

[WaterKeeper]

Hi Mike
<img src="/images/welcome.gif" width="500" height="62"><br><b><i><big><big>To Reef Central</b></i></big></big>

That somewhat depends. If the resin sits without flow for long periods it eventually becomes coated with a bacteria film and that pretty much does it in. Your running about 20 gallons per week and that should be enough to somewhat avoid the problem. Also, standing water in the resin may leach out some absorbed materials. The solution to that is to just discard the first gallon or so of the output water before you collect it. Lab units have recirculation pumps to avoid that very problem.

By the Way-Our watchdog Debi saw those links in the sig line. Tooth whitening and digital photo site links are of a commercial nature and therefore a no, no on RC. I know Deb and you don't want to draw her ire. She will boot you back, across the pond, if you do it again.

 

[EnglishRebel]

WaterKeeper
I think I may have posted these questions somewhere on RC before but a search did not bring it up (I'm getting on in years so maybe I thought I did )
Anyway here goes again.

1. When I purchase live rock that's been cured by the LFS do I have to quarantine it?
2. If yes, for how long?
3. I guess quarantining is to see if there are any "bad" hitchhikers. Do I have to watch for them day and night (I guess I could camp out in front of the tank with my flashlight and toast marshmellows and sing cumbuyaw while looking for the bad little chaps :rollface: )?
   [/list=1]
   Thanks

 

[WaterKeeper]

:lol:

Did you think I was going to deport you to Triad (some sort of transistor?), NC; wherever that is?

• Not if you know from the LFS how long they had it.
• If it was over a month it probably can go directly into the tank.
• You are right on there. Most of the bad buggies roam at night. However, short of a vigil, just look for signs of stress or injury to the inhabitants.

 

[Aquarist007]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13559466#post13559466 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WaterKeeper
:lol:

Did you think I was going to deport you to Triad (some sort of transistor?), NC; wherever that is?

• Not if you know from the LFS how long they had it.
• If it was over a month it probably can go directly into the tank.
• You are right on there. Most of the bad buggies roam at night. However, short of a vigil, just look for signs of stress or injury to the inhabitants.

I agree but with these cautions:
question the LFS if they have ever used copper based medications in their tanks before--if so you can't use that rock again.

be on the caution side regarding the viability of the bacteria on and in the rock--many LFS keep their salinity levels at 1.018 (normal being 1.026) this can cause some die off in the bacteria so some time will be needed in the display tank for cycling.

make sure it is quality reef rock like figi or tonga , Marshall, Haitian ect ect and not base rock. The quality rock is more porous and thus feels lighter when you lift it. The porous rock has deeper crevices to harbour anoxic bacteria--the bacteria that breaks down nitrates to harmless nitrogen gas and thus completes the nitrogen or ammonia cycle.

In short use the rock but add it in 3 lbs intervals a week and still monitor for ammonia spikes.

 

[Gordonious]

If they say it is from Tonga, either they are lying or it has been in their tanks for months and is worth a lot as this rock is not imported from the wild any more.

 

[Aquarist007]

Here is a site to compare the tonga rock to:

http://www.marinecenter.com/rocks/liverock/tongapremiumbranchliverock/

 

[jwar]

Thanks for all of the wonderful information. Over the last couple of months I have been researching to convert my 125G freshwater planted aquarium over to a marine aquarium. I have been lurking on this board for a few weeks and have read through many of the different topics. This has been a very valuable tool and I would like to sincerely thank you for the help.

Regards,

jwar

 

[WaterKeeper]

Hi jwar
[welcome]

Glad to have you aboard and we're here to help any reefer from newbie to seasoned vet. Well, there is no helping Paul B.

 

[EnglishRebel]

WaterKeeper
In one of your Newbie articles you mentioned glueing acrylic dowels to the bottom of live rock to keep if off the bottom of the tank and expose as much of the rock as possible to the water column. Would it be okay to have egg crate sitting on say 2" diameter dowels just below the sand line? Also by elevating the rock don't you run the risk of fish excavating under the rock?
Thanks
PS BTW the Triad is not an electrical device or a Chinese gang -- it's the three cities area of NC comprising Greensboro, Winston-Salem, and High Point (aka the "Furniture Capital of the World" )

 

[Aquarist007]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13570113#post13570113 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EnglishRebel
WaterKeeper
In one of your Newbie articles you mentioned glueing acrylic dowels to the bottom of live rock to keep if off the bottom of the tank and expose as much of the rock as possible to the water column. Would it be okay to have egg crate sitting on say 2" diameter dowels just below the sand line? Also by elevating the rock don't you run the risk of fish excavating under the rock?
Thanks
PS BTW the Triad is not an electrical device or a Chinese gang -- it's the three cities area of NC comprising Greensboro, Winston-Salem, and High Point (aka the "Furniture Capital of the World" )

I would be interested in the answer to this one also. I would be more concerned about pockets of phosphates and nitrates forming then acutually providing more surface area for aerobic bacteria by letting the under surface of the rock "breathe"
IMO the rock in contact with the substrate or buried in it provides a home for anerobic and anoxic bacteria--there is plenty of external exposed space for aerobic bacteria.

 

[WaterKeeper]

Good question Alan,

The use of eggcrate is ok but as the Capt points out you end up having little pockets of sand in each crate chamber. Dowel material is solid and avoids these tiny pockets. Sand shifters can move freely around the dowel material. True, so can some burrowing fish but the dowels form a solid base structure and there is little chance that they will move.

You don't glue anything. Just cut the dowels to the same length and place them in the tank bottom and fill the sand around them slightly higher, about an eight of an inch or less, than the top of the dowels. Once you have a foundation you merely place the LR on top of the dowels.

 

[EnglishRebel]

WaterKeeper
My only concern about dowels is their stability. If you can get say 2" diameter or greater I would definitely go this route. Smaller than 1" would IMHO not be stable enough unless they were linked together (which is why I suggested egg crate -- but can see the drawback with that method). If I cannot find large dowels then I think I will glue the smaller ones together with acrylic to form a grid.
I'm really taking my time with this project but am making progress -- I poured the curb for the wall of the new equipment room this morning and lumber order is going in this afternoon.
Watch out for a "Newbie Builds His First Reef" post on RC (with lots of pics - reefers just LOVE pictures :inlove: :inlove: )

 

[Aquarist007]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13576937#post13576937 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WaterKeeper
Good question Alan,

The use of eggcrate is ok but as the Capt points out you end up having little pockets of sand in each crate chamber. Dowel material is solid and avoids these tiny pockets. Sand shifters can move freely around the dowel material. True, so can some burrowing fish but the dowels form a solid base structure and there is little chance that they will move.

You don't glue anything. Just cut the dowels to the same length and place them in the tank bottom and fill the sand around them slightly higher, about an eight of an inch or less, than the top of the dowels. Once you have a foundation you merely place the LR on top of the dowels.

thanks for clarifying Tom--a great idea---learn something new everyday on RC
I was looking for something to put in the bottom of my sump--the last batch of Haitan rock put a hole in the bottom of the plastic sump---dowels would work well--probably better then egg crate---the egg crate not being smooth on the edges like the dowel.