Newbie Corner Feedback Thread

I have a story about this bridge. This is the Throggs Neck Bridge and behind me in the picture is Fort Totten which was a revolutionary war fort. The historic fort is still there and it is full of cannon emplacements. So we figured we would dive here with an underwater metel detector and find some cannonballs.
We jumped in with SCUBA gear and a buddy line that we always dive with because the visability is only three feet or so. As soon as we submerged, the current took us and dragged us across the rocky bottom. We were tumbling and moving very fast and all tangled up in our buddy line. We finally surfaced about a quarter mile from my boat all cut up.
That was when we were new and stupid divers. That is also how we learned about tides in tidal estuarys.
:eek1:

When a hundred square miles of ocean water move under a bridge, it moves fast.
We did go back during slack tide though and collected 18 dozen of the biggest clams I have ever seen. It is too deep and rough for anyone to clam there so these things get almost like bowling balls. I was in chowder for months. :lol:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13908912#post13908912 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Paul B
I have a story about this bridge. This is the Throggs Neck Bridge and behind me in the picture is Fort Totten which was a revolutionary war fort. The historic fort is still there and it is full of cannon emplacements. So we figured we would dive here with an underwater metel detector and find some cannonballs.
We jumped in with SCUBA gear and a buddy line that we always dive with because the visability is only three feet or so. As soon as we submerged, the current took us and dragged us across the rocky bottom. We were tumbling and moving very fast and all tangled up in our buddy line. We finally surfaced about a quarter mile from my boat all cut up.
That was when we were new and stupid divers. That is also how we learned about tides in tidal estuarys.
:eek1:

When a hundred square miles of ocean water move under a bridge, it moves fast.
We did go back during slack tide though and collected 18 dozen of the biggest clams I have ever seen. It is too deep and rough for anyone to clam there so these things get almost like bowling balls. I was in chowder for months. :lol:
Click to expand...

You should trade in your shrimp boat for a tour boat--its your calling Forest;)
 
You should trade in your shrimp boat for a tour boat--its your calling Forest
Click to expand...

Yes very nice names. I was also thinking of calling it
"Festering Wound" but I got talked out of it.

I do give nice champaign tours of the Gold Coast though if anyone is interested. Even moonlight cruises.
And I am a lisenced Captain so I can perform a marriage and if it doesen't turn out right, you could sue me :smokin:
 
REFRACTOMETER

REFRACTOMETER

What's the least I should spend on a refractometer? I see them for anything from $40 to $140. What brand would you recommend? Also why is it that for every other parameter in the aquarium (ORP, PH, CALCIUM, SALINITY, OXYGEN) there seems to be a PinPoint device to measure it but not for SG?
Thanks

OOPS just noticed that PinPoint make a SG meter salinity monitor
so why do we need a refractometer?
 
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I have another question (I know, I know I'm just full of them :p :p ).
Should I agitate the saltwater in my 40 gallon storage tank continuously or just before I transfer it to my sump during a water change?
Thanks guys.
 
WK
I have a 40 gallon RO/DI tank with a small pump that will fill the 40 gallon saltwater tank. The I will add salt to the RO/DI water in the saltwater tank and then turn on another pump that will recirculate water in this tank for mixing. I will then have 40 gallons on saltwater ready to do water changes. The same circulation pump will (by closing the recirc ball valve and opening another ball valve) also send water to the sump during water changes.
My question was really -- should I stir the saltwater prior to doing a water change or will the salt stay in solution?
Thanks
PS any comments or suggestions on my refractomer post?
 
Salt dissolves it should not settle out unless evaporation pushes the concentration of salt past its solubility level and that is A LOT of evaporation as sodium chloride is soluble to over 100 times what it is in seawater. Mixing it after it dissolves is to aerate it not keep it in solution. I'd just circulate it just before use.

I missed the refractometer question. First off, the pinpoint salinity meter uses conductance to determine salinity not refraction of light. If you like having all pinpoint equipment it will do just about the same job as the refractometer. The only drawback with using specific conductance to determine salinity is that the meter needs to be calibrated daily with a calibrating solution. A refractometer can be calibrated with RO/DI for a quick measurement and only need a standard solution to check it on occasion. It only takes a minute to calibrate the meter so the choice is up to you as either is about the same price.
 
WK
Thanks as always for your thoughtful and expert advice. Okay that's enough sucking up for one day :p :D.
Here is something from their web site that seems to suggest that you calibrate before the first use and then occasionally.

'The PINPOINT Salinity Monitor is automatically compensated throughout the temperature range 32ºF to 122ºF (0º to 50ºC).
Calibrate the monitor with the appropriate fluid before use.
Check the calibration occasionally. Calibration fluid can be re-used if uncontaminated by other fluids and kept in a tightly capped container.'

Any thoughts?
Thanks
PS Is it best to buy a more expensive refractometer? I see them priced from $39.99 up to $140.00. Does more expensive mean more accurate?
 
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Not really when it comes to price Alan. It is like skimmers, you can buy one for $450 that really is no better than a $200 model. It is really hard for me to say as there are a lot more out there than I've ever used.

Don't forget I'm from a lab background and we calibrate things just about every test. I guess it is OK to calibrate on a weekly basis but if you get a bad reading or using it for something like hypo I'd recalibrate it before use.

:lol: You don't even want to know what I think about reusing a calibrating solution. :D
 
Thanks WK
Hey guys. I have started my build thread over on the SIG Large Reef Tanks forum. It's EnglishRebels 260 gallon System Build (Is advertising allowed on RC :p :p )
WK has already chimed in with his usual 2c worth. Check it out. You'll find lots of misinformation that I picked up in this thread :lol:
 
WaterKeeper
I am getting ready to order a control system. My tank will initially be FOWLR (FO includes crabs and snails right?) and as I gain knowledge and experience I will add corals. The kit I am looking at has a PH and TEMP probe but I can add an ORP probe. Will I need this and can you explain why I would or would not need it?
Thanks
 
ORP is a two sided issue. Oxidation Reduction Potential, Redox, is an empiracal method for determining the amount of organic (reducing) materials in the tank. Unfortunately it is not selective and other inorganic reducing compounds, iron compounds are an example, will also do the same thing. In most tanks however the inorganic chemistry stays fairly stable as compared to the organic, which steadily increases with time. That allows it to guage their build-up with some accuracy.

The thing is what do you do about it? Water changes or running carbon will lower it. Ozone is another method and here ORP is very valuable. If Ozone is added without control it can do more harm than good. Most ozonators are hooked up to an ORP probe and that starts and stops them. A controller with this ability is therefore handy if you run ozone. If you don't, it becomes one of those nice to know measurements that really has limited solutions to improving it.

No crabs and snails don't count for some reason. I guess so the acronym doesn't become FOWLRWCAS. :D
 
WK
Okay -- Oxygen Reducing Potential that makes sense. Any organic compound then has the potential to eat up oxygen in the water column. What would cause the ORP to increase over time if we are skimming the water to take out proteins (which are organics correct?). I was under the impression that decaying organic compounds will reduce the oxygen levels as they are converting nitrate to nitrites.
So an ORP probe is good for monitoring so you can take action if the levels are getting too high but if you are not using ozone then it's an optional measurement.
Thanks
PS Forgive my lack of knowledge on this subject - don't forget I'm a mechanical engineer (plus I was asleep during chemistry class - must have been all those darn fumes) :lol: :lol:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13935808#post13935808 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WaterKeeper
Salt dissolves it should not settle out unless evaporation pushes the concentration of salt past its solubility level and that is A LOT of evaporation as sodium chloride is soluble to over 100 times what it is in seawater. Mixing it after it dissolves is to aerate it not keep it in solution. I'd just circulate it just before use.

I missed the refractometer question. First off, the pinpoint salinity meter uses conductance to determine salinity not refraction of light. If you like having all pinpoint equipment it will do just about the same job as the refractometer. The only drawback with using specific conductance to determine salinity is that the meter needs to be calibrated daily with a calibrating solution. A refractometer can be calibrated with RO/DI for a quick measurement and only need a standard solution to check it on occasion. It only takes a minute to calibrate the meter so the choice is up to you as either is about the same price.
Click to expand...

I used my for the last six months and went to recalculate it this week--it was still right on 35ppm

Curious however Tom, as to why each time I use my refractometer
the first reading is high--the second and third reading are what they should be :confused:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13953657#post13953657 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EnglishRebel
WK
Okay -- Oxygen Reducing Potential that makes sense. Any organic compound then has the potential to eat up oxygen in the water column. What would cause the ORP to increase over time if we are skimming the water to take out proteins (which are organics correct?). I was under the impression that decaying organic compounds will reduce the oxygen levels as they are converting nitrate to nitrites.
So an ORP probe is good for monitoring so you can take action if the levels are getting too high but if you are not using ozone then it's an optional measurement.
Thanks
PS Forgive my lack of knowledge on this subject - don't forget I'm a mechanical engineer (plus I was asleep during chemistry class - must have been all those darn fumes) :lol: :lol:
Click to expand...

protein skimmers although essential IMO do not remove all organics from the water column
overfeeding, not rinsing frozen food before using, and not doing regular water changes are some common reasons for increasing organics--combined with poor flow, poor surface agitation and not enough live rock in the water column
 
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