Newbie Corner Feedback Thread

Hmm, bumping a sticky-that's a new concept. You are right though Alan, this is thread is supposed to be questions on the Newbie Corner series in [rk]. In 26 pages I think there may be three questions about that month's article.

Now hear this Scott and Paul. Ask about colorimetric testing or to the lounge with you! (or maybe Scott's longevity thread on the discussions forum. ;))
 
Tom
Sorry about that I thought it was a thread for newbies, but I guess the "New To The Hobby" forum is for that. Duh :(
PS I'm reading the article as we speak.

Okay, couple of questions.

  1. If you wash the test vessel with HCl to remove all traces of phosphate, can you reuse it time after time? I would have thought that if phosphates are as "sticky' as you say the the mere task of handling the vessel would contaminate it with phosphates (unless you wash your hands in the acid solution first and I'm sure you don't want to be doing that). :eek2:
  2. Should we be testing for Chloramines in our tap water or call up the water department to see if they use it? Does the RO/DI unit take out the Chloramines or screw up the membrane.
  3. On the subject or RO/DI units, mine has what is called a "flush valve" that bypasses the thingamigig on the waste water line. What should I use this for. Also I have a tee in the line going to the DI unit to dump the initial water from the RO unit as I was told this can shorten the life of the resin. How much water should I dump.
    [/list=1]

    There, I've got the thread back on track. :lol: :lol:
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13955868#post13955868 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EnglishRebel
While I can't speak for others there are many who have nano tanks check the forum here Nano Reef Tank Forum .
I can't do the nice swimming fishes, welcome to Reef Central animated banner like the mods can but

WELCOME TO REEF CENTRAL

sure you can type the word welcome in between two brace brackets [ ]
 
bracket-1.jpg
Welcome
bracket.jpg


What does that do for me?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13968560#post13968560 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WaterKeeper
bracket-1.jpg
Welcome
bracket.jpg


What does that do for me?
Theres one in every Crowd....lol
Thats Classic!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13968226#post13968226 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Paul B
Wow, now what is Colorimectric testing?
Such a big word

aka colour change kits

Test Kits for Chemical Compounds
Contain prepared reagents and standards that let you easily determine the concentration of specific compounds in the sample. We offer titrimetric and colorimetric test kits for several compounds including ammonia, chlorine, carbon dioxide, heavy metals, and many others.

Colorimetric test kits: These tests determine the concentration of a substance. The higher the concentration of a substance, the darker the color developed in the test.

Other elements can interfere with the accuracy of the tests. Read kit instructions for appropriate adjustments.

Titrimetric test kits: The concentration of a substance in a sample solution can be determined by titrimetic tests. After the sample is treated with an indicator, a standard titrant is added until a color change indicates a completed reaction. The amount of titrant used coresponds to the concentration of the substance being tested.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13968603#post13968603 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 2frosty4u
Theres one in every Crowd....lol
Thats Classic!

duh they are called brace brackets in desktop publishing as opposed to these { } that are called parenthesis.:rolleyes: :lol:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13971471#post13971471 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Pacifica
EnglishRebel,

Here's a pretty good article on Chloramine. Although I'm not sure if it completely answers your question:

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.php

Thanks Pacifica I will check it out. I asked here because WaterKeeper was complaining that there were very few posts with questions on his Newbie article
WaterKeeper
"In 26 pages I think there may be three questions about that month's article."


and a lot of non-informative stuff like this :lol: :lol:

bracket-1.jpg
Welcome
bracket.jpg
 
Non-informative! I'll have you know you'll need those to mount a shelf for the fish food for that tank your building. :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13968108#post13968108 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EnglishRebel
Tom
  1. If you wash the test vessel with HCl to remove all traces of phosphate, can you reuse it time after time? I would have thought that if phosphates are as "sticky' as you say the the mere task of handling the vessel would contaminate it with phosphates (unless you wash your hands in the acid solution first and I'm sure you don't want to be doing that). :eek2:
  2. Should we be testing for Chloramines in our tap water or call up the water department to see if they use it? Does the RO/DI unit take out the Chloramines or screw up the membrane.
  3. On the subject or RO/DI units, mine has what is called a "flush valve" that bypasses the thingamigig on the waste water line. What should I use this for. Also I have a tee in the line going to the DI unit to dump the initial water from the RO unit as I was told this can shorten the life of the resin. How much water should I dump.
    [/list=1]


  1. Sorry Alan,

    I didn't see that you has actually slipped a valid question in here.
    1. Make it dedicated glassware only used for phosphate testing. Never wash it with detergent as they often contain phosphates too. Just rinse it well after use with RO/DI. Your hands are not a problem as you handle the sample containers from the outside and I have never heard of phosphate moving through glass or plastic. BTW, when collecting samples use a plastic measuring cup over glass as phosphates bond to glass far better than plastic.
    2. If you use an RO/DI it is not a problem. The carbon prefilter handles the chlorine and eliminates it. That leaves the ammonia that is partially removed by the RO membrane but mostly by the DI section. An RO/DI handles chlorine, chlorine dioxide and chloramine so as long as you have one disinfectant type added is not a problem.
    3. Scale formation on an RO membrane reduces output and can shorten its life. Many RO/DI unit have a backflush valve that allows a high rate of water to sweep the membrane of scale forming components. Depending on the unit some may have a by-pass of the membrane and you could run tap water directly to the DI stage. That would indeed shorten its life so it should be valved out an the RO discharge line opened during the backwash. I'd say do it every two weeks, more often if you have very hard water. If you use a home water softener feeding the unit you may reduce that to monthly.
    Sorry I missed the post but I've been doing some RC clean-up chores for the upcoming year and have been busy (also with people PM'ing me about X-mas tanks for the kids :eek: ).

    Retract that last I don't want to be labeled as Scrooge-Bah Humbug. :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13972109#post13972109 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WaterKeeper

  1. Scale formation on an RO membrane reduces output and can shorten its life. Many RO/DI unit have a backflush valve that allows a high rate of water to sweep the membrane of scale forming components. Depending on the unit some may have a by-pass of the membrane and you could run tap water directly to the DI stage. That would indeed shorten its life so it should be valved out an the RO discharge line opened during the backwash. I'd say do it every two weeks, more often if you have very hard water. If you use a home water softener feeding the unit you may reduce that to monthly.
Sorry I missed the post but I've been doing some RC clean-up chores for the upcoming year and have been busy (also with people PM'ing me about X-mas tanks for the kids :eek: ).

Retract that last I don't want to be labeled as Scrooge-Bah Humbug. :D

Tom
You're no scrooge :p
My unit has a valved bypass around the flow restricter that's on the waste water line. It's labeled "Flush Valve". Can I assume that because it bypasses the restricter it allows a burst of water across the "dirty" side of the membrane to clean it? If that's the case, what you are saying is to flush the membrane once every couple of weeks (BTW my tap water is 35ppm).
I have installed a tee off the line going fro the RO unit to the DI canister. This is to allow the initial RO water to go to drain and not enter the DI canister. My questions where how long should I open that valve for or will the small amount of "dirty" RO water not matter a hill of beans in a 30-40 gallon batch.
Thanks
 
That is good water you have at the tap Alan. With soft water like that I'd just say backflush once a month or so. I usually say every two weeks on water with a TDS of 10-500 and weekly or better above that. Under 100 is soft water and a month or more is fine.

Your only talking less than an once on the residual water so I wouldn't worry about it getting to the DI.
 
Hi Lov
[welcome]

Looking good. Did you use base rock and seed it? The rock only has a few patches of coralline so I was wondering.
 
Fantastic Lov (I Lov that name)
Your tank looks much better than a lot of tanks.
Good luck and thanks for joining.
 
thanks for the welcome, ^_^

Waterkeeper; actually only 2 of them are base rock,

Um I do not know what seed ment, but the rest are all live rock. actually, I am having a little problem with my sand bed, I have been having a little Sino problem, but it has been going away. last time I did a water change was last week for about 5 gallons. I do this once a week.
 
Try getting more flow across the bed and see if that helps with the cyano. Seeding is using a small amount of true LR or LS and adding it to a non-living rock or sand. Over time the organisms on the true rock move over to the base material and colonize it. Your rock looked a bit sparse with coralline growth so I was wondering if that is what you are doing. Evidently not.
 
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