Aquarist007
New member
not quite --you need to balance the temp too
Newbie Corner Feedback Thread
- Thread starter WaterKeeper
- Start date
not quite --you need to balance the temp too
Nope, the temperature part is for the physicists. He is doing the chemistry right now. 
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14134162#post14134162 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WaterKeeper
Nope, the temperature part is for the physicists. He is doing the chemistry right now.
OOOH I can be a PHYSICIST as well as a CHEMIST
Let's see Joe the plumber, Joe the engineer, Joe the physicist, Joe the chemist and with the LR curing Joe the biologist. Pretty well rounded background for this hobby.
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
:lolspin: -- Joe's a busy guy these days.
On a more serious note (yes really), I'm going to re-read your article on sand as I'm getting ready to put some in my refugium.
And some time at Jone's and Cedar Beach thank you.
Ask away Alan; are you going to go DSB? If so, avoid any advice from Paul.
Ask away Alan; are you going to go DSB? If so, avoid any advice from Paul.
Aquarist007
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14134162#post14134162 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WaterKeeper
Nope, the temperature part is for the physicists. He is doing the chemistry right now.
but the salinity can be off if taken at low temperatures
Yet another physic question.
Aquarist007
New member
Tom---why won't my refractometer take the correct salinity level the first time I use it.
It happens this way every time---the first reading is very high--- I dry it off well and the second, third, ect are right on.
It happens this way every time---the first reading is very high--- I dry it off well and the second, third, ect are right on.
Stop drying the darn thing Scot. We are dealing with changes in the speed of light. Rinse the chamber with tank water and fill it up. Use that reading for determining your salinity.
Wash a refractometer, or use to see if you wine is ready, will leave a residue that can throw off the readings.
Wash a refractometer, or use to see if you wine is ready, will leave a residue that can throw off the readings.
Aquarist007
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14140671#post14140671 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WaterKeeper
Stop drying the darn thing Scot. We are dealing with changes in the speed of light. Rinse the chamber with tank water and fill it up. Use that reading for determining your salinity.
Wash a refractometer, or use to see if you wine is ready, will leave a residue that can throw off the readings.
Are you saying put the refractometer away between uses without drying it off--that's bad lab chemistry:eek2:
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Okay enough about refractometers already.
Tom
Let's talk about a sand bed for my Refugium which is 24Lx18x18".
First, how can I calculate how much sand I need for each inch depth of a 22x18 bed (the last 2" of the length is an overflow chamber)?
Second, in your article 'Natural Filtration 2' you stated.
'First off, it must have the proper size, in the range of 0.05-2.0 mm. The majority of the particles should fall in the range of 0.15 through 0.25 mm; about the same size as fine-grained, granular sugar.'
I checked the Caribsea web site here CaribSea
Would it be better to mix the Aragamaxâ"žÂ¢ Sugar Sized Sand which has a grain size of 0.1 - 1.0 mixed with Seaflorâ"žÂ¢ Special Grade Reef Sand with a grain size of 1.0 - 2.0.
or
Grand Bahamas Biome that has a grain size of 0.1 - 2.0?
I would think that the mix would be better because you can control the size range ('The majority of the particles should fall in the range of 0.15 through 0.25 mm.'). In which case what percentage of each should I get.
I can't seem to find any that is 0.05. I'm thinking of a bed depth of 4-6". At what depth is a bed considered to be a DSB?
I am open to any advice or other considerations.
Thanks
Tom
Let's talk about a sand bed for my Refugium which is 24Lx18x18".
First, how can I calculate how much sand I need for each inch depth of a 22x18 bed (the last 2" of the length is an overflow chamber)?
Second, in your article 'Natural Filtration 2' you stated.
'First off, it must have the proper size, in the range of 0.05-2.0 mm. The majority of the particles should fall in the range of 0.15 through 0.25 mm; about the same size as fine-grained, granular sugar.'
I checked the Caribsea web site here CaribSea
Would it be better to mix the Aragamaxâ"žÂ¢ Sugar Sized Sand which has a grain size of 0.1 - 1.0 mixed with Seaflorâ"žÂ¢ Special Grade Reef Sand with a grain size of 1.0 - 2.0.
or
Grand Bahamas Biome that has a grain size of 0.1 - 2.0?
I would think that the mix would be better because you can control the size range ('The majority of the particles should fall in the range of 0.15 through 0.25 mm.'). In which case what percentage of each should I get.
I can't seem to find any that is 0.05. I'm thinking of a bed depth of 4-6". At what depth is a bed considered to be a DSB?
I am open to any advice or other considerations.
Thanks
Hi Alan,
Sorry for the slow reply but I've got a cold and was not all that active for the last two days. Our Sand Bed Calculator says 23 lbs per inch if using an aragonite sand. If you blend the two grades use mostly, 85%, of the finer grade. Don't worry about the real fine particles as they tend to form through abrasion anyway.
Four inches or more is considered a DSB but I tend not to like real deep beds and focus at 4" rather than 6". The latter doesn't make a bed work any better and costs more money, not to mention the extra space it consumes.
Sorry for the slow reply but I've got a cold and was not all that active for the last two days. Our Sand Bed Calculator says 23 lbs per inch if using an aragonite sand. If you blend the two grades use mostly, 85%, of the finer grade. Don't worry about the real fine particles as they tend to form through abrasion anyway.
Four inches or more is considered a DSB but I tend not to like real deep beds and focus at 4" rather than 6". The latter doesn't make a bed work any better and costs more money, not to mention the extra space it consumes.
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Thanks Tom (didn't think to look for a sand bed calculator)
Hope you're feeling better soon (whomever she may be). :lolspin:
OBTW You said not to bother with buying LIVE sand right?
Hope you're feeling better soon (whomever she may be). :lolspin:
OBTW You said not to bother with buying LIVE sand right?
Last edited:
Not me, I say buy as much true LS as your pocketbook can afford. Not the bagged stuff but the ocean harvested, true LS. It contains all the worms, ministars, minicukes and other critters that keep the bed stirred.
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
Aquarist007
New member
We discuss true live sand and mud on this thread Alan:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1520368
basically you best bet is to go to the ocean for it or have someone send you a small amt of it (cup full) which you can use to seed the substrate in your own tank.
this is different from seeding your substrate from someone else's tank or the LFS in that it has a greater variety of useful bacteria and microrganisms that we need to constantly regenerate or add to our tanks.
Similar threads
