Nitrate as a useful addition for systems utilizing carbon dosing

alexander_ktn

New member
While there are numerous threads discussing the possibility of dosing nitrate to lower phosphate in carbon dosing scenarios I haven't seen it elaborated or recipes supplied.

I have been carbon dosing on and off in my systems for years and I have also added nitrogen in the form of ammonium chloride and potassium nitrate when nitrate in the tanks was zero and phosphate was still at a high level that wouldn't budge.

When to dose?
If you struggle getting phosphate down with carbon dosing and either GFO doesn't do the trick for you or you don't have a way to use a phosphate absorber. E.g. if your phosphate stays at 0.08 for weeks despite zero nitrate and despite upping the carbon dose.

Why dose a nitrogen source?
The bacteria we want to grow by dosing carbon need nitrogen, phosphorus, carbon and other elements in order to reproduce or grow. If one of these elements is only available in very low concentrations it will limit the bacteria (this is also the whole premise behind adding carbon in the first place).
Sometimes when dosing carbon, nitrogen (in the form of nitrate) is reduced to a point where it becomes limiting to the bacteria and thus the reduction of phosphate seemingly comes to a halt even with adding more and more organic carbon. If we now add nitrate, the limitation disappears and the process can continue.

What will adding nitrate do to my corals?
This is an interesting question because we are of course afraid of browned out corals. I have not had any problems with this issue, since the nitrate additions are comparatively low and temporary. In this regard there is also a relatively recent study (2011) that shows the nitrate uptake by Stylophora corals at different nutrient levels, for the people that are interested in such papers. http://jeb.biologists.org/content/214/16/2749.full.pdf+html

How to go about it
I usually use a stock solution that contains 100mg/ml of nitrate, so dosing 1ml per 200 liters of tank water will add 0.5 ppm nitrate to the tank.
I usually dose the 1ml/200l daily until I see the desired reduction in phosphate or the nitrate value approaches 1-2ppm. So far phosphate started to go down reliably within days after starting to add nitrate.

What are the dangers
1) You might feed problem algae, though I have never noticed an increase in algae growth - I guess the bacteria we culture are quite good at utilizing the nitrogen source before it gets to algae.
2) If you use potassium nitrate it will increase potassium in the tank. Potassium levels in our tanks are at 200-400 ppm, though, and for each 1 ppm of nitrate you add, you only increase potassium by 0.6 ppm - so in my opinion negligible.
3) Corals browning out - I never had that problem and as written above, if you don't overdo it, you should be fine. I'd be more concerned about the effects of phosphate on the corals.
4) If you add too much nitrate while carbon dosing you might get to a point where phosphate becomes limiting to the corals. This might especially be an issue if you do not feed your tank enough and can lead to STN and bleaching or other serious problems.
5) You might get a bacterial bloom, as always with carbon dosing.

Recipe
This recipe makes 1 liter of stock solution that contains 100 g/l of nitrate.
1 ml of this solution will add 1 mg/l of nitrate to 100 liters of tank water (0.5 mg/l per 200 liters)

Needed:
163 grams potassium nitrate (KNO3)
1 liter RO/DI water

Preparation:
Dissolve 163 grams of potassium nitrate (KNO3) in 0.8 liter of RO/DI or distilled water and fill up to 1 liter. (You can also just add the 163 grams of potassium nitrate to 1 liter of water, it will be a slight bit more diluted but the effect is minuscule.) Using warmer water helps with dissolving the KNO3, because it's an endothermic reaction and uses up heat.

You can also use calcium or sodium nitrate but need to be aware that they have other molar masses and may contain water when you make your calculations.

Cheers, Alex
 
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is sodium nitrate really so hygroscopic that you would rather dose potassium? i dont get it.

also, can you give some more insight into about how much you dose? You described the beginning of one cycle but I am curious how long the cycle lasts, how often you have these cycles, have you tried dosing constantly, etc...
 
You could of course also dose sodium nitrate or calcium nitrate but some salts may contain crystal water, which is usually on the packaging when you buy it, that's why I wrote it. It might be more of a problem with Ca(NO3)2, though, than with sodium nitrate.

I use potassium nitrate because it's more easily available here than the other salts and I don't see the potassium addition as a major problem. No matter which salt you use, the calculation to get to 100g/liter of nitrate will be different depending on the cation the nitrate is bound to and any potential water in the crystal matrix.

As for the duration of dosing - it really works in days. I just had to add nitrate to one of my tanks again, so that's what prompted this post. I added KNO3 on Saturday, Sunday and today and already my phosphate went from 0.08 to 0.04.

I really only dose occasionally if phosphate starts to creep up high, but I am sure one could find a daily dose that would reliably keep phosphate down and one could then for example mix it into the carbon source.
 
I throw a table spoon of this in my 75 gallon top off barrel every time it empties
gfo, pelelts couldn't get my phosphate down
didn't see a reduction until I started doing this
20150309_125051_zpswbmzah6w.jpg
 
Thanks, good to see others using nitrate successfully & very interesting - so it works even without measuring it out exactly, lol.
 
I am a pinch of this lets see what happens kind of reefer.
doesn't always work out : ( i.e. lanthanum chloride
 
Yeah, I never used lanthanum chloride for fear of getting a serious alkalinity drop or problems with the fish or lanthanum precipitating in the display tank... Definitely not a pinch-of-this compatible substance...
 
Personally i favour sodium nitrate, mainly as there is an easy way to remove the excess sodium leftover
By dosing 85 g/l nano3 25g/l nacl sodium free salt, and mgcl 6h2o 101.66g/l i produce (theoretically) seawater with a very small dose of magnesium

Nice write up

Fwiw i found (when i had a big meaty mexican turbo die away from any cuc in my frag tank) resulting in a quick phosphate rise, that when i used nano3 to supply a few ppm of nitrate, it dropped po4 like a stone and stripped acropora

The other thing i found, is at say 0.08 po4 the amount of nitrate you need to supply os in line with what might be expected from the redfield ratio, at 0.04 you need much more nitrate, 0.02 much much much more nitrate just to scrub that last bit of po4 to zero. At trace po4 it seemed i run out of muches lol

I should say-

I never let nitrate become measureable (i used it in my atu)

I use a big algae bed not carbon sourse (same rules differant flwxibility of ratios imo)

I do not use po4 removers either
 
Yes, if you use a lot (as might be the case with an algae scrubber) then sodium nitrate might be the better choice, indeed. And very nice that you add the NaCl-free salt to correct things in combination with the MgCl.

When KNO3 is used as more of an occasional corrective action the small potassium addition will either be utilized by the organisms in the tank or the value will be corrected in the next few water changes. I'm really not worried there.

I really love seeing that there are other crazies like me out there putting nitrate in their tanks, by the way... ;)
 
thanks for commenting on your dosage. i am just starting to use it in my tank to see if it helps with my high (ish) po4, 0 nitrate, and pale sps.

I am hoping to come up with a long-term dose that I can add via dosing pump. i imagine it would be a very small dose - perhaps the equivalent of 0.1 PPM per day? how does that sound to you?
 
I'd probably just use more GFO, but sodium nitrate might be a cheaper way to lower the phosphate level in many systems, and the bacteria might feed some interesting organisms.
 
I'd probably just use more GFO, but sodium nitrate might be a cheaper way to lower the phosphate level in many systems, and the bacteria might feed some interesting organisms.

my phosphate is not the main issue - its the zero nitrate. i can get my corals to color up if I feed a ton, but then I have algae issues. So I'm thinking a little bit of nitrate and a little bit of gfo will be the right combo.
 
I am hoping to come up with a long-term dose that I can add via dosing pump. i imagine it would be a very small dose - perhaps the equivalent of 0.1 PPM per day? how does that sound to you?

It will depend on how much you feed, how much your corals use and how imbalanced the usage by organisms is. I would probably dose to 0.5 or 1 ppm (measured with a test kit) and then stop to see how fast it goes down in a certain time to get a feeling of the daily dose that makes sense.

I'm sure, though, that you'll have to test frequently and if needed adapt the dosage over time since our tanks are very dynamic systems. So if e.g. your nitrate goes to 2 ppm over time, reduce the dose and if the corals become paler again and you are at zero you might increase it.
 
Fwiw my maintenance dose was around 20ml of each, per 5 days into 1400l
So around 0.18 mg/l per day of no3

I never had a reading of nitrate on red sea pro at these sorts of levels, only the one time i dosed 90ml of each i mentioned previously
Even then i can only describe the reading as trace (no where near 0.25)

My feeling is in high export/low import systems like mine, i would absolutly zero po4 before i got any significant nitrate reading to hold.
Imo this was beyond what was sensibly manageable and msy in itself make matters worse, so i didnt bother

I just used it to help balance when and if needed, cheaper, more efficent, more concistent, and more controllable than gfo
 
Some tanks may experience a nitrogen deficiency. Food, ammino acids ,ammonia, sodium nitrate , potassium nitrate et al are all potentnially useful and potetnially harmful in such cases.

My sytem is heavily fed and dosed with moderate amounts of orgnaic carbon over the last 5.5 years.
I've tried both aspartic acid and then sodium nitrate to increase PO4 reduction while dosing organic carbon. Neither accomplished that goal but both increased nuisance algae in my tanks. Utimately, in my case a small 10% increase in organic carbon dosing gets low detectable PO4 and NO3( PO4 0.02ppm to 0.04ppm ; NO3 0.2 to 1ppm) without GFO for the last 1.5 years.

This thread may be of interest :

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2303916&highlight=organic+carbon+dosing
 
Some people seem to have success with the method, and I can certainly say I can utilize it consistently. I'd guess it depends on if there was a true limitation of a nitrogen source in your system or there might have been some other limiting nutrient. Post hoc that's hard to say.

One thing I'd like to point out though is that aspartic acid or other compounds that free ammonium while being broken down are not the same as nitrates in regards to the bioavailability to corals. That's also why "feeding more" might not always be the best way to do it. Just like sugar has different effects than vinegar as a carbon source. In the study I linked in the first post the nitrate uptake by the coral has very different kinetics from ammonia, and for example in elevated PO4 situations ammonium uptake went way up with the concentration while nitrate uptake was steady and low. So if one wants to add a nitrogen source that does not directly end up in the corals and rather feeds the bacteria, nitrate might be the better choice.
 
Tag, As I have been debating using potassium nitrate, since I can seem to bring NO3 up. I took skimmer offline yesterday and if that does not help, I plan to add another fish first, and I may try this if new fish doesn't help.
 
So if one wants to add a nitrogen source that does not directly end up in the corals and rather feeds the bacteria, nitrate might be the better choice.

I don't think so. The facultative heterotrophic bacteria take up ammonia preferentially for N.

Why do you think ammino acids like aspartate produc free ammonium?
 
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I don't think so. The facultative heterotrophic bacteria take up ammonia preferentially for N.
They'd be stupid not to prefer the substance that can be oxidized easily, that does not mean they won't use the nitrate (otherwise carbon dosing would not be utilized as a means to reduce nitrate in our tanks, in wastewater treatment and in aquaculture). Again, as with glucose versus acetic acid - where glucose is also the molecule preferable for bacteria from an energy standpoint - one of the compounds has an effect on the corals while the other one hasn't. (Nitrate uptake by corals is inhibited in the presence of ammonium - as is the case in our tanks. The study mentioned above cites some other studies that examined that, if you want to read up on it.)


Why do you think ammino acids like aspartate produc free ammonium?
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK22475/
So converting the amino group to ammonia is the first step in breaking down amino acids in organisms and it goes on from there.
 
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