Noisy Vortech DrySide FIX!!

I think there have been bearing failures for two reasons. The first is likely from having the dry side improperly spaced so that the coupling magnets are too close. My guess would be that this is the main cause of failure. This will cause a much greater thrust force on the bearings. The other possibility is that the dry side is not properly aligned with the wet side. This would cause radial forces and vibration on the bearings that would likely be negligible otherwise.

When seeing how additional loading will effect the life of a ball bearing, look at the equation for bearing life L10=(C/P)^3, where C is the dynamic load rating and P is the load placed on the bearings (In the case of combined radial and thrust loads, the calculation for P is more complicated). L10 gives the number of revolutions, in millions of revolutions, that 90% of the bearings should complete before failure. If the bearing used on the MP-40 is indeed the DDR-1980; this bearing has a dynamic load rating of 2463 N (554 pounds).
So lets look at two examples: One where the load on the bearing is 50 pounds, and one where it is 20 pounds. Lets assume that the pump runs at an average of 1000 RPMs over its life:
(554/50)^3*1e6=1360e6 rev
(1360e6 rev)/(1000 RPM)/(60 min/hr)/(24 hr/day)/(365 day/yr)=2.6 years
so 90% should last this long. A few percent will fail significantly sooner, and around 50% will likely last 5x as long.
Second example, P=20 lbs
(554/20)^3*1e6=21253e6
(21253e6 rev)/(1000 RPM)/(60 min/hr)/(24 hr/day)/(365 day/yr)=40.4 years
The point being is that the change in thrust load will likely seriously impact the expected life of the bearings. Also, even with normal loads, a few percent will always fail prematurely.
What could be done to fix this? A different (read larger) bearing can be used with a greater dynamic load rating. Perhaps a thrust bearing could be incorporated into the design or the pumps could be designed to shut off if the two sides are too close together.
Anyways, I don't know enough about the design of the pump to come to any solid conclusions. What I do know is that I have an MP-10 and if I run it at full power it is loud and gets hot. I run it at 1/2-3/4 power and it is fine.
 
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Just ordered some bearings from BOCA and found this 15% coupon: 15RCGroup2011

Will report back when I get them.
 
MOST USEFUL THREAD I'VE EVER FOUND! Right now I'm in the process of replacing two different sets of bearings on two different MP40s. I purchased them both as "no working" "as is" purchases so I got got them for dirt cheap and hope all this works. I have both of the 7mm bearings off, but I cannot for the life of me get the 8mm bearings off (the ones closest to the magnet). I am now waiting for the bearing splitter to be shipped to me from e b a y. I just received the new bearings from the link someone put on here from amazon (VXB Bearing). I am cautiously optimistic that this will all work out and I will have two working MP40s. Thanks for the help.
 
glad to see this thread is still alive and helping folks!

the splitter will help!!! they work wonders.

and if your scared, you just place it around the bearing, and place that on a vice, and tap the shaft with a punch. (if you have a brass hammer or drift, use it. if not, you can place a piece of wood between to prevent flaring the shaft. )
 
MOST USEFUL THREAD I'VE EVER FOUND! Right now I'm in the process of replacing two different sets of bearings on two different MP40s. I purchased them both as "no working" "as is" purchases so I got got them for dirt cheap and hope all this works. I have both of the 7mm bearings off, but I cannot for the life of me get the 8mm bearings off (the ones closest to the magnet). I am now waiting for the bearing splitter to be shipped to me from e b a y. I just received the new bearings from the link someone put on here from amazon (VXB Bearing). I am cautiously optimistic that this will all work out and I will have two working MP40s. Thanks for the help.

yes great thread. I have just replaced my bearings in my mp10 with the same ones as quoted above. now super quiet! I will do a comprehensive write up soon as I took lots if pictures.....
 
glad to see this thread is still alive and helping folks!

the splitter will help!!! they work wonders.

and if your scared, you just place it around the bearing, and place that on a vice, and tap the shaft with a punch. (if you have a brass hammer or drift, use it. if not, you can place a piece of wood between to prevent flaring the shaft. )

would something like this work instead of the splitter? Which one would be better to use?

http://www.amazon.com/3-Jaw-Pilot-B...1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1323398079&sr=8-3-fkmr2
 
that wont work. (thats a pilot bearing puller. which grabbs the inside of a bearing and pulls it off a inner tube of some sort.) that is used for pulling bearings out of manual transmission flywheels.

you could use a standard 3 jaw bearing puller, but they cost more. and the jaws have to grab around the bearing, and i cant remember if there would be enough room between the bearing and magnet to place the jaws.....
sorry.
 
ok, so here goes. My MP10's were really making a loud noise, only after one year of use. After reading this thread I decided to do my own bearing replacement. I ordered the bearings from VXB on ebay. Good service and free international shipping! The bearings you need are: 7mm x 14mm x 5mm

Here!

I must say that this was extremely easy. Just read this thread and you'll be ok. You'll need a box cutter, allen key and a flat head screw driver. (Maybe a bearing puller)

so first off, I have to say that I take NO responsibility for anything you do. Remember you are working with electricity and you MUST unplug this from the wall!!!!

After that it's a piece of cake!

1. Use a small screw driver to lift the logo face off. It is just glued on and will come off very easy.

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2. Use a cutting/box knife to prize open the face of the MP10. I did this by simply pushing the knife down in the join. Start at the gap where the electrical cord is and slowly work you way around. Take your time and it will work out fine.

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Then remove the three screws at the back

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And the whole electric motor will come out

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Then remove the screw holding the front magnet on:

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Then remove the three screws:

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And you'll end up with this:

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Now you may or may not need a bearing splitter to pull off the old bearings. My older MP 10, the bearings just slipped off with my hand, the newer one required a bearing puller. Just pop the new ones on and repeat the process in reverse. I didnt bother to reglue the front plate on. It is fine and will allow easy access should i need to in future.

They are now dead silent.........and a very cheap and easy DIY!

HTHs Cheers
 
I did this recently. The bearing measurements for me were 3mm ID x 7mm OD x 5mm W. They were both the same size. The replacement bearing type was a 670ZZ.

The only thing I would add is to clean up the aluminum end plates very well where the bearing sits, keep the 3 spacing washers in the same order (flat/wavy/flat) and put a small drop of loc-tite on the center screw for the silver magnet.
 
I'm just preparing to change out the bearings in one of my MP40's and I would like to hear if anyone has found a bearing that provides an improvement over stock? If yes can somebody please provide a link or a model number. I have already noted the existing links in the thread but what I'm looking for as an addition to all the great info is an upgrade on the stock sound levels.

Cheers,
 
The bearings I found were not servieable like the oem ones but they are dead silent. The bearings that were in there originally looked like pretty darn good bearings. They were serviceable roller bearings with metal dust shields and circlips. When I opened them, black, burnt grease fell out like dust. Someone must have run it rediculously hot for a long period of time. I would imagine if you don't have it aligned properly, it will side-load the bearings making them run hot and score or burn them out prematurely. I think regular cleaning of the wet side and proper alignment are key on the Ecotech pumps. They appear to be built very well. My only improvement would be to spin ballance each dry side magnet to a tighter tolerance at the factory to make it almost undetectable when they are on.
 
I suspect my magnetic disk is not balanced. I got an MP10 when I bought a biocube. It was very noisy so I replaced the bearings and it was whisper silent. After maybe a month or so it is back to being noisy. I bought an extra set of bearings and would like to test my theory. I contacted Ecotech but they don't sell replacement disks since the dryside is supplied to them as an assembly.

Does anyone has an extra magnetic disk that they would want to send me? I can pay shipping and a few bucks for it.
Thanks.
Jason
 
shaggss (post #229 pic 4)

Are you breaking open a ultrasonic weld when removing this plate? and when you re assemble, how did this plate go back together? did you crazy glue it back on?

Jim C.
 
not sure about the weld but it is tough to get off!!! I used a box cutter and cut around the seam while gently prying it open. it appears to be glued in abiut 4 places there is a small groove that the face sits in. I didnt bother to glue it back on. when on the tank the magnet holds it altogether.
 
I was opting to buy one used but I'll stick with new. This thread will be of great use once I get one and it starts to wear down.
 
Hello everyone,

Can someone provide to me the some links for bearing rings in order to replace my problematic ones? I actually need the exact type that suit to my dry side of the pump. If someone knows sellers from e-bay it would be just great, otherwise I would have to buy the parts from US.
I am a European resident and thus the seller must be in position to send them out of US. I own two MP40Wes

Please also check the below mentioned links, i think that these are the parts that i need, please confim if i have wrong or not.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-607-2RS..._Skateboarding_Skating_ET&hash=item5d30669dd3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/S698-2RS-Be...361?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e5c2ae2f1


Thank you all guys in advance, this is a great thread!
 
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shaggss,
I followed your lead, and swapped out the bearings, easy to do
(once you get beyond the fear of cracking open the unit).

going to power it up on the tank today to listen to the results :)
feedback to follow
 
shaggss,
I followed your lead, and swapped out the bearings, easy to do
(once you get beyond the fear of cracking open the unit).

going to power it up on the tank today to listen to the results :)
feedback to follow

Cool, hope it goes well!!
 
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