Noisy Vortech DrySide FIX!!

The only real thing to do is to drill the head, remove magnet, take apart as described,then use vice grips to grab the leftover screw and back it out.
Its the only real option.
Reverse drill bits suck, and extractors Dont ever work on small machine screws. And don't mess up because it would suck to have to drill and tap out the rest of the screw. Its not a problem for me or a mechanic if you know one close and trust.

If your scared to do any, you just ask your mechanic friend. It Might cost you a beer or breakfast if you choose to just have them do it. But they have the tools and nerve haha. Let us know what happens!
 
So i left the house for a couple hours and left the pump out infront of my computer.
When I come home I see the magnet + bearings removed from the motor. I was excited, until I saw that he cracked the magnet. Not the ones that are located with the bearings, but I believe they're the ones that hold the pump to the glass? (the round silver ones) He literally crack the magnet completely in half, in two pieces. If this is merely just for holding the pump to the wetside through the glass, then it should be fine using a cracked one, right?
And also, it looks to me as if he could have possible cracked the screw that came from inside the bearing/magnet assembly. Im taking apart an mp10, does it make sense that the screw is approximately .5"? Seems short to me, but I wasn't here when it was taken apart.....



Last but not least, I was messing with the bearings now that its opened up, and 1 of them seems to be spinning fine while the other has an obvious grinding point. Is it at all possible that I only need 1 new bearing? Or should I just get 2?

Edit:
IS this bearing good even though its not the 687 XXX or whatever?
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-inventory/Radial-Bearings/16569/SMR147CYZZNB2-7x14x5
 
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I know your uncle . . .

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just kidding, I couldn't help myself.
I would replace both bearing while it is open. Not sure on the magnet issue though. You could try to epoxy it back together though.
 
If I wanted to replace the cracked magnet would I be able to get any magent of the same dimensions, or are there specific strength magnets?
The magnet seems to be 42mm in diameter and about 3mm thick, ill post one if I find one but would anyone be able to find me one?
 
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Repaired my MP10 today. Aside from pulling the old bearings off, which was a massive pain in the rear, it was a pretty easy fix. I test ran the motor and it was super quiet. I still need to get some kind of epoxy to put the case for the MP10 back together. What have people been using for that?
 
you can use a 2 part epoxy (you get it in a little twin tube pack at a home store near the silicone and sealants)
but you can also use a Superglue Gel type adhesive.
 
Two part worked great.

Thanks for coming up with this idea to repair these things, it worked better than I could have imagined! My MP10 wasn't this quiet when it was brand new.
 
for the price of those vortechs they should make no noise and have no problems ...

Wow, that's just stupid.

The price is for features and performance, everything breaks even $25,000,000.00 aircraft break everyday. I don't see any trend analysis that proves Vortechs break any more often then other powerheads/pumps, have you?

This isn't the thread to post this comment.
 
Well, I got my new bearings, and replaced them, and my vortech is only SLIGHTLY quieter.
Took it apart to mess with it, and I put it back together and forgot to put the washers in... DEAD SILENT. My noise problem comes from the washers.
I have 2 washers, a regular one and a spring washer. No washers=no noise AT ALL, is there a problem with running this without washers? and if i need washers do you think new ones would make a difference?
 
Well, I got my new bearings, and replaced them, and my vortech is only SLIGHTLY quieter.
Took it apart to mess with it, and I put it back together and forgot to put the washers in... DEAD SILENT. My noise problem comes from the washers.
I have 2 washers, a regular one and a spring washer. No washers=no noise AT ALL, is there a problem with running this without washers? and if i need washers do you think new ones would make a difference?

Those washers are most likely thrust washers to take the force from the coupling magnets. Removing those will likely put the force onto the ball bearings which are not necessarily designed to be axially loaded. This could cause premature failure. Some ball bearings are better than others for thrust loading so I'd have to see the type used.
Take this with a grain of salt because I haven't looked at the design so I'm guessing this is the case.

If someone can tell me the manufacturer and type of bearing used, I will look up the specs and see if they should be failing prematurely. I will also need some kind of an idea what the min and max speed the pump runs at (maybe we can get this information from Ecotech). The way bearing life is rated, some will always fail (like 10%) before their design life is reached. This is most likely the cause of the failures.
 
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Those washers are most likely thrust washers to take the force from the coupling magnets. Removing those will likely put the force onto the ball bearings which are not necessarily designed to be axially loaded. This could cause premature failure. Some ball bearings are better than others for thrust loading so I'd have to see the type used.
Take this with a grain of salt because I haven't looked at the design so I'm guessing this is the case.

If someone can tell me the manufacturer and type of bearing used, I will look up the specs and see if they should be failing prematurely. I will also need some kind of an idea what the min and max speed the pump runs at (maybe we can get this information from Ecotech). The way bearing life is rated, some will always fail (like 10%) before their design life is reached. This is most likely the cause of the failures.

These are the bearings I got:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-inventory/Radial-Bearings/8214/SMR147CYZZ5NB2-7x14x5
 
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