Noisy Vortech DrySide FIX!!

dahenley said:
does the screw spin inside the magnet when you try to un-screw it?
if so, then the impact driver might help.

of, you could place a piece of wood down (because it will dent a wood table, use a piece of scrap)
this will be a 2 person job, or 3 handed job....

place the motor assy bearing down and screw up.
hold the magnet, and use your screw driver and start unscrewing. then have the 3rd hand hit the screw driver
your not aiming for a hard hit, but a mild hit. your going after the vibration and/jarring of the hit to help loosen the screw from the shaft.

(i was a mechanic for a long time before going back to college... .thats where these techniques are coming from)
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I need a way to prevent the shaft from turning when trying to remove the screw...
 
the shaft pertrudes though the back bearing by about 2MM
when you place it shaft down on a piece of wood (hard wood is better) the pressure from tapping the screwdriver will press the shaft into the wood and produce enough friction to hold the shaft while your applying twisting pressure during the tapping of the screwdriver
(i should have been more clear)

place the motor assy bearing down and screw up.
hold the magnet, and use your screw driver and start unscrewing. then have the 3rd hand hit the screw driver
your not aiming for a hard hit, but a mild hit. your going after the vibration and/jarring of the hit to help loosen the screw from the shaft.
 
if that bearing is prodtruding through the back, then you can try to dremel it. (just be careful because you dont want to throw off the balance of the pump. )

but you wont need much of a groove. just enough to break the cap screw loose
 
I'll have to snap a picture - it sits 100% flush, nothing protruding.
And the dremel would work but the assembly sits inside the housing to deep to even reach it...
 
what eurobeaner said about using a extractor or a reverse/lefthanded drill bit and pressure between the bit and screwdriver will/should allow enough tension between them to remove the screw. the bit needs to just bite, not actually bore into the shaft.

if you have 2 drills and 2 people, it may be super fast and easy

good one!
(i originally thought you meant drill the Phillips screw.... i was scared.. haha. but i understand now)
 
I cut a slot in the end of the shaft with a dremel with a cut off wheel just deep enough for a slotted screw driver to get a bite and I was able to remove the screw holding the magnet. Now to remove the bearings.......
 
todd rose said:
I cut a slot in the end of the shaft with a dremel with a cut off wheel just deep enough for a slotted screw driver to get a bite and I was able to remove the screw holding the magnet. Now to remove the bearings.......
Click to expand...

after you pull the bearing off, take some emery cloth or sand paper (fine) and round the edges of the slot you just cut.
that way when you put the bearing back on, it goes on easy/easier
 
Yes those should work.

I just did this fix my mp40 and can't believe how quiet it is now! I'm pretty sure it's quieter than one of my friends 3/4 month old mp40. I ended up getting the 607 locally it was a PEER brand bearing and the 698 off ebay which was a KML brand bearing.
 
Word of warning folks. This is clearly very successful for some people, but not everyone - myself as the case in point.

I've got one of the very first MP10s, like the 6th to roll off their production line. And what I found inside mine was different enough than what is documented here to matter. The three long screws were in bad shape as they came out. It was clear they would be tough to get back in. And the screw that held the magnet cap on was actually a screw on one side, and a #2 hex on the other end. They were screwed together tight enough that the hex ALMOST completely stripped trying to get the two things separated. But not quite. And the three washers? I had two. No, I did not drop one.

But the bearings OMG! Everything it took to get to the bearings was cake next to removing those. I'm in awe of people talking about wiggeling these things off, or using screwdrivers. NO WAY on mine. I finally broke out the vise. But as soon as the vise was tight enough to actually HOLD the bearing, I had a ruined bearing. But hey, no big deal! I'm replacing it anyway. So all the bearing came off except the collar around the shaft. And THAT my friends is on SO tight, with zero visible space between it and the base of the shaft that I'm certain there's no way to get that separated without a bearing separator, and then goodness knows how I'd get it off since now it's just a piece of a bearing.

IMO someone with bearings on as tight as anything like mine should not begin this without a bearing separator and/or a bearing puller, and a possibly a bearing press. But you can't know if you'll need them until you get to the bearings. So what does that mean? Look up the cost of those parts, factor in the time to get them, and THEN decide if you want to try this. Or be ready for the possibility of having to put humpty dumpty back together a bit worse for wear, and certainly no quieter.

Myself, I've got a piece of junk, and a $110 order for a new MP10 dryside.

A word to the wise...

PS - I do ALL kind of DIY. Successfully. But this one takes the cake.
 
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