Noisy Vortech DrySide FIX!!
- Thread starter dahenley
- Start date
dahenley
New member
scolley....
sorry to hear this... (and i agree. a bearing press is a good thing, and i advised this in the start of this thread....)
you should post some pictures of your MP10 since yours is a early/proto type...
that way others can learn!
i just re-did a MP10, and had to use a bearing press. when i pulled the mag out of the housing, the bearing fell apart in my hand!!! it was shot. but there is a groove in the inner race to place the jaws of the bearing press.
or, if you dont have one. then put the race in your vice, and use a brass punch or a metal punch (but put the screw in the hole so you dont mess it up) and drive the shaft through the inner race. then your ready to put the new bearings on.
(if your done with the original dry side, are you keeping it, or do you have to return it to ecotech? i may be interested in it if you dont want it!)
sorry to hear this... (and i agree. a bearing press is a good thing, and i advised this in the start of this thread....)
you should post some pictures of your MP10 since yours is a early/proto type...
that way others can learn!
i just re-did a MP10, and had to use a bearing press. when i pulled the mag out of the housing, the bearing fell apart in my hand!!! it was shot. but there is a groove in the inner race to place the jaws of the bearing press.
or, if you dont have one. then put the race in your vice, and use a brass punch or a metal punch (but put the screw in the hole so you dont mess it up) and drive the shaft through the inner race. then your ready to put the new bearings on.
(if your done with the original dry side, are you keeping it, or do you have to return it to ecotech? i may be interested in it if you dont want it!)
Indeed you did! But having read multiple subsequent posts of people easily removing them from MP10's I thought "This must be cake. dahenley's either being overly cautious (not a bad thing IMO) or just hasn't tried this with MP10s."
My mistake.
Not having the tools needed, nor access to them, I looked up the cost of the gear needed to finish this little project. And seeing that, I decided to stop throwing good money after bad (having already purchased bearings), cut my losses, and buy a new dry side.
In return for your service to the community, I'd happily give you what's left of the dry side, assuming when the new one comes in that it's reasonably quite.
And as for pics, sure. Be happy to do that. But not today. I wasted precious hours (yes hours) on what I thought was going to be a 15 minute exercise. But will get pics. Should be interesting.
And oh, I forgot to mention... all the talk of cutting the plastic piece off that is in contact with the tank. Fuggetaboutit! It came off in my hands. As in fell off.
And the slipping the motor out of the plastic housing? Slipping? That thing was really, REALLY hard to get out of the plastic. It ultimately yielded to a screwdriver and rough handling with a rubber mallet. Nothing else was getting it out.
But again that just demonstrates, "Your mileage may vary..."
dahenley
New member
But again that just demonstrates, "Your mileage may vary..."
this statement is sooo true.
and a good point to make.
equipment and what not is a learning experience. nothing (almost nothing) works out as it looks on paper, and thus equipment and things may be upgraded as time goes on.
So, you may have a first gen MP10, and others may have an updated dry side. there is a good possibility that there may be an even newer 3rd gen out there.
with that said, there is a possibility that the same thing could happen to the MP40's/ older 20's and even the 60's.
so its a case of buyer be ware... haha
(and as mentioned in the first page.... THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY, so be 100% certain you want to embark on this journey... just in case you end up with or have a different setup and have difficulties or run into problems.....)
Sorry to hear it. As far as I know, the single source selling a solution to your problem accepts Visa, Amex, Discover ,or MasterCard.
I point that out only because its REALLY important that folks understand that no matter how simple this has been for some fortunate people...
"Your mileage may vary".
Good luck.
I point that out only because its REALLY important that folks understand that no matter how simple this has been for some fortunate people...
"Your mileage may vary".
Good luck.
dahenley
New member
Since you fubared your dry side... why not take it to the next level and fix it? worst case is you..... well i guess you can break it if its broke... haha:blown:
i broke a magnet on a old MJ style freshwater pump, and superglued it back together. (you might need gel depending on how bad it is, but the gel gets into crevices and fills better.)
SO, grab the glue and put it back together. if it works, then your a hero! :beer:
if not... then its still broke!
thats what i would do.
if your worried, post some pictures before hand and ask for opinions....
and just a hint. i would put the bearings on the shaft before gluing. just so your not banging around and re-fracture the magnet or break it loose while its still drying.
this of course all depends on how its broke, and how many pieces.
just saying....
jfl14609
Active member
i thought about using some 5 minute epoxy i am thinking that would hold better than super glue. I cant believe that ecotec doesn't sell parts its kind of weird they have a parts department that sells the controller the wet side and the dry side that doesn't seem like parts to me
jfl14609
Active member
Yeh I am not spending another dime with ecotech I have two mp40ws both have had issues and i have only had them two years. I have a tunze thats 9 years old never put another penny into it after I bought it. I'll try the glue that doesnt work on the shelf it goes I am sure I will need parts for my other one soon enough haha
dahenley
New member
Mp10 or mp40?
Does this happen without the wet side attached?
A little more info would help
volk23
Reefer
mp40
with and without wet side attached. it dont even spin when i just put the assembly with just bearings in.
volk23
Reefer
it does spin by hand. about the bearing, i thought so too, there are groves in the shaft cut, bearing seem to fall right into it and not go any farther. will try again to see if it moves... thx
Jarred1
Active member
I just did this fix on my MP10 and used two MR147-2RS, they were like $10 a piece. I can only hear the pump when I am right next to it!
Jarred
I do not want to hijack the emphasis of this thread, which is the potentially successful noise reduction of Echotech pumps by replacing bearings. In support of that I'd like to offer the following...
My early model MP10 was stupid noisy. Not insane, but a nonstop background to anyone in the room. I failed in my attempts to replace the bearings and bought a new dry side. That new dry side arrived and has been installed for a few days. All I can say is, "Wow!"
It is silent. Or at least cannot be heard over my overflow, return, skimmer and other MP10. Reappearing. But when I get close, my 1 year old MP10 is definitely louder. A little.
My point is, all Echotechs are not created equal. So if you are willing to take the risk, there ARE quieter Echotechs, and a bearing change may be just the ticket.
I had 2 mp40s on a 90 gallon tank, both noisy. I did like their small footprint, high output and efficiency. Absolutely hated the whirring noise they made while spinning up. Only way I could ever get rid of it was to run them below 50 percent power. I bought an Mp10 when I downsized to a nano-tank. I thought maybe the mp10 would be less noisy because it was a smaller pump.... Same nasty sound. I am not sure if different people have a differing tolerance for noise, or some vortechs are just more noisy then others. They are great pumps, but for the price ecotech charges for them, I would think they would put some R&D into quieting them down. I think I will risk the bearing swap, the noise bugs the crap outta me.
