Novices need LED lighting questions answered.

I want to first go back to original thread. radion pro will work great. don't forget you have the acclimation mode. on the 80 gallon cube here 30x24x24 one light does ok but 2 would be better. I run this one at 65% about 9-10" off the surface. it covers the whole tank but there is some shading on sps.

CHOX- I had 3 Kessil A360WE's on my 180. It was mostly LPS and some Softies with about 2 Acros , some monti's and a couple other SPS. The Acro's grew if they were within the top 8" of the tank but did not keep color I ran them at 100%. I switched to Hydra 52 HD's now on that tank and Acros colored up with 3 weeks to original. Don't get me wrong I loved the Kessil's and I have seen other people keep SPS with them in shallow tanks but for me they are best for LPS, Softies and Anenomies.
 
Check out Reef Breeders

Check out Reef Breeders

It may be worthwhile to have a look at Reef Breeders. A lot of bang for the buck. Their website has a spreadsheet with recommendations based on tank dimensions. You can get them with a built in controller if you want to program. I am in no way affiliated. I have them on my current 40 mixed reef and my now cycling 125 gallon and am very satisfied. Purchased based on recommendation from my LFS. Great customer service from them, as well. Just thought I would throw that out there. I am only running mine at 40% and all corals are happy.
 
Hi all, I am new to saltwater tanks. I have a 55 gallon tank with 40 lbs sand, 50 lbs live rock and 10 lbs pukani rock. I have a cascade 1000, protein skimmer, 2 power heads and 2 wavemakers along with 2 AI primes. I have 2 clownfish, 2 pajamas, a sailfin tang, bt trigger(female) , coral banded shrimp, and a fire shrimp. I can not get any coral to grow, I have lost more coral than fish, I have only lost 2, but the coral is another thing. I have 1 small sps and 2 others that look like toadstools. These seem to be doing ok but I lost a very nice mushroom about 4" when open, it turned to mush and guts. Water parameters are safe, calcium lvls are at 500, I have not tested for phos. Yet but will tomorrow. I am aclamating at 50% right now. Any ideas why I am having such a hard time with my corals?
 
I'm currently planning a 40 breeder. I'm currently looking at the Hydra HD the 26 and 52. My rock will probably be spread out and I plan on having mushrooms, zoas, and acans mainly. However I feel like the Hydras wouldn't limit me as far as corals. What would be ideal for my tank?
 
I am probably going to wind up with a 55 gal tank since Petco has their $1/gal sale going on. Dimensions are 48" w, 12" d, 21" h. I was wondering if this light from amazon (or any from amazon) would be sufficient to maintain a mixed reef. I would like to try a little of everything eventually.
 
I'm currently planning a 40 breeder. I'm currently looking at the Hydra HD the 26 and 52. My rock will probably be spread out and I plan on having mushrooms, zoas, and acans mainly. However I feel like the Hydras wouldn't limit me as far as corals. What would be ideal for my tank?

Ha! Sorry, I don't mean to laugh at you, but the question, "What would be ideal for my tank?" is something you need to decide. There is no ideal fixture. If there were such an animal, then all fixtures would be the same.

Given the corals you want to keep in a 40g tank, most any led fixture will do, except the fixtures that use leds that are less than 1 watt each like the Marineland and Current Orbit which are only OK for coral in very shallow tanks (like 12" or less). I'm less familiar with Hydra fixtures, but I think they will work fine.

The questions for you are, what do you want?

Do you care about having sunrise/sunset ability? It's totally unnecessary, but I love having it on my display tank. But then I'm retired and home during the day alot, so I enjoy seeing the tank change over time. BTW, your fish and corals could hardly care less. This extra control costs more.

Do you want more color control? Most fixtures have 2 channels, blue and white (with some red and green usually in the white channel). But some people are really picky about the color of the light in their tank, so they get fixtures that offer more channels and some even have a channel for every color. Is this kind of control important? Not to me. But some people go crazy over color control. Do your corals care? Not much, they are pretty happy with getting twice as much blue as they get white and that will keep them healthy and growing. This extra control costs more as well.

There is no 'ideal'. Just get enough fixture to cover the area at the bottom of your tank and with 3 watt or better leds and 2 channels with dimmers. Anything more is about what you want and not about what your corals need.
 
I would suggest that one criterion in choosing which LED to use is lifecycle cost, or cost-of-ownership if you prefer, and that it should be considered and compared over a 3-5 year span. I went through this process very recently comparing several LED's and T5 since that is what I have historically used. The simple formula I used is

Fixture cost + bulb cost (for the T5's) + electricity cost, all times 3 years = total cost

I was caluclating cost for lighting my 60" x 24" x 24" 150g. Once I had the formula created in Excel, I simply input the data from various combinations of fixtures to get my comparitive lidecycle cost.

Electricity cost here in mid-PA is currently about 12 cents per KWh. So, for me, using a 10 hour per-day light cycle, my annual elecrical cost is $43/100w. This has significant implications since a 165w "black box" fixture will cost 5 times more in electricity cost than a 30w TMC Aquaray Tile that covers the same basic area. So, without getting into all of the other criteria, one really has to look at total cost over time. The cost difference between a $100 MarsAqua fixture and a $400 Kessil is not really $300, its $300 - the difference in electrical costs over a certain period of time. The elctrical cost would not totally close this gap but it may get it close enough that you are willing to pay a bit more for the Kessil given its other advantages.

Many are attracted to the low-cost black box LED's but I suspect many are not considering the related electrical cost penalty that comes with it.

I am not advocating for any one fixture or another, just suggesting a methodology for one point of comparison.
 
For all the people who ask, what is the best light for my tank, I agree with the sentiment that Ron_Reefman just posted... that there is no such thing as a best light for a particular size of tank. To begin to answer this question we, the community who is being asked, would need to know what was important to you and what you were trying to accomplish. As Ron suggested, there is a great deal of variation in the functionality between fixtures, many of which, probably most, don't matter to your coral. There are a few things that do matter a lot to your coral, such as the spectrum of light being generated. But I'll take up some of the technical issues in another post.

Oh, and it is generally helpful, when you ask for advice, to have done enough study and reading, to understand the basics of light energy as applied to aquaria so you can ask better questions and the answers will make more sense. I
 
OK so I'll make an attempt to get at what Sk8r was originally posting about...generally useful information for folks new to LED's or the hobby to know. Well, actually, I'll start with a list of criteria that I believe are useful to consider and compare, some of which matter to coral health and appearance, some are just a personal preference of the hobbiest, and some are of little use or are actually unhelpful and misleading. Lets assume we are dealing with a reef system, not FO or FOWLR.

I'll start with what I consider the the most important criterion...

1. PUR. At the end of the day, what seems to me to matter most, is how well the light fixture is providing the radiation/light/energy (however you want to describe it), necessary for healthy coral. If you do not know what PUR is, go read some more. The point here is that what matters is what specific frequencies of light are produced.

2. PAR. This is a widely used criteria but is of limited value IMO because it measures light indiscriminately, whether the light is useful, desirable, or not. High PAR values that are driven up by green and yellow light over-represent the "amount" of light that that is useful for coral health.

3. Cost of fixture
4. operating cost ( electricity )
5. failure rate, probability of failure ( often due to fan failure)
6. Vendor customer service
7. Personal preference for the appearance of tank...overall “color” as interpreted by the human eye.
8. your ability and willingness to change emitters that come on cheaper LEDs to remove and replace undesirable colors and even if this is possible with a particular fixture.
9. Mounting ease for your particular situation... what is possible
10. Driver electonics... PWM or Current reduction technology. This is a pretty big deal but will take a seperate discussion to explain the difference and implications.
11. Programability, Controlability, including number of channels, dimming, ramp-up down times, etc.
12. Programing software, wireless control, control via phone, etc
13. aesthetics... Physical appearance of the fixture
14. Connectivity to popular control systems such as APEX
15. Coverage, depth penetration, spread, optics, the ability to change optics.
16. Heat generated, lost. Rememberthe more input energy that gets lost in heat, the less energy available to produce light.
17. And OK, here we go..... watts. This is a widey used criterion that I believe is generally misguided because many do not understand what a watt is. Simply put, Watts is a measure of power (a function of voltage and current) that is consumed in the operation of the fixture or emitter. Watts is not a measure of light output. A 3W emmiter does not, by definition, produce more light energy output than a 2W emitter. A 3W emitter simply consumes more energy than a 2W emitter. The wattage of a device tells you how much the device will cost to operate base don electicity usage. It is a measure of input not a measure or representation of light output. While it may be true that a higher watt emitter happens to produce more output than a 2W emmitter, this is far more a function of the efficiency of the emmitter than the power it takes to run it. I disagree with those that say you should strive for a certain watt rating of emmitter. Instead, I suggest that you strive for the most efficient emmitter, the emmitter that creates the gratest input/output ration. In the end, your coral do not care how much power it takes to produce the light they want. The discussion surrounding watts is really about power consumption, not light output.

And I've run out of time so I will have to leave it at that. I'm sure there are more that I forgot at the moment and others can offer to add to the list.
 
No hard feelings. I'm slowly learning, I just meant as far as making sure my tank would have the most coverage....in my case I feel like 2 of the hydra 26 HDs would be better than just one of the hydra 52 HDs. I like the functionality of them and the tanks I've seen under them look amazing.
 
rfurst, I'm not looking to start an argument here. And your list of things to consider is pretty inclusive, some of your points are very well taken. Some are really almost unimportant, but that's just my opinion. But the very first one on your list is confusing.

I know full well what PUR is and how it's different than PAR. And I'll even agree that PUR is more important. However, how do you know what the PUR is for any given coral? They all have different kinds of zooxanthellae and therefore have different light requirements (or PUR). And then just what tool do you use to measure PUR? I've never seen a PUR meter. So if you can't really identify the PUR for a given coral, and there is no tool or meter to measure PUR, why make life so confusing? It's an important concept to understand, but if I don't know what the PUR is and I can't measure it, it really should just be a footnote.

We know the 400nm to 500nm wavelengths are the most important for most coral's zooxanthellae. Isn't that enough understanding about PUR? And you are right about PAR meters reading all light (not necessarily equally as blue is somewhat under read). But at least there is a meter that can give you a number to work with. So why would you say it is of limited value? To my way of thinking, it's better than the value of the non-existent number you get from the non-existent PUR meter.

Again, I agree with you that PUR, if it were something we could know and measure, would be much more useful. But we can't, so why confuse people who are just getting started. You make it the number one thing to consider, yet nobody lists any PUR numbers for their fixtures, or for any corals you buy. So how is that the most important criteria?
 
hey Ron, no worries about starting an argument. We are just sharing different perspectives and frankly, I don't mind arguments in any event so long as they are civil and grounded in fact. Beyond which, being challanged (respectfully of course) is how I learn and I think the back and forth is helpful to the larger community.

Yes, I agree, some of the things on my list are of little importance which is why I prefaced the list by stating “some of which matter to coral health and appearance, some are just a personal preference of the hobbiest, and some are of little use or are actually unhelpful and misleading.” My goal was to represent all of the factors that not only I think are important but that I often see being considered. I did not attempt to rank them, other than #1.

My contention is that even though PUR in not something that we can directly measure, even though each coral has a slightly different PUR requirement, even though no manufacturer list the PUR of their lights, even though it can be difficult thing to understand, it still is the thing that matters most since it is one thingabout our lights that most directly affects the health of our coral. Ya, maybe its a bit nuanced but that is why I summed up my point by saying, “The point here is that what matters is what specific frequencies of light are produced.” *

I think you are suggesting that, notwithstanding its importance, since we cant measure it, it's a moot point. I am suggesting that even though we can't directly measure it, lets understand and focus on the things that are the basis of PUR... the light frequency created by the fixture.

So maybe there is another way of getting at my point without using PUR directly. As you noted, we do know that coral responds best to ligh wavelengths of about 400nm – 500nm and 630nm -700nm. Different literature sources provide different ranges so I give these numbers as reasonable approximations. These cover the blue, indigo, violet colors on one end of the spectrum and red on the other. For those of you that really want to understand why... it has to do with the absorbtion bandwith of chlorophyll which the zooxanthellae use for photosynthis. We also know that the green, yellow, orange light in the middle of this range have little to no value to coral (even though the human eye tends to see green -yellow the best).

The number one most important thing to consider then is how well the light spectrum delivered by the fixture corresponds the the light spectrum required for coral health. I think this is a very important issue for hobbiests to understand since this issue is one of the differentiators between vendors. Cheaper fixtures, the “black box” variety, tend to produce a full spectrum of light much of which is uneccessary for your coral. This is why you see so many people buying these lights and then changing the emitters to replace undesirable ones for better ones. Higher-end lights tend to do a better job of targeting the output spectrum to the specific needs of coral. That said, you still find green emitters in higher end lights which isn't entirely bad since it does contribute to what we humans interpret as brightness, but your coral doesn' care much.

Bottom line, regardless of what fixtures you are comparing, compare the spectrum of light the fixture produces with what sectrum of light your corals find useful and choose the fixture where these two are most aligned.

Ill share my anti PAR bias in my next post,betyi all can't wait...teehehe
 
hey Ron, no worries about starting an argument. We are just sharing different perspectives and frankly, I don't mind arguments in any event so long as they are civil and grounded in fact.

Glad to hear it and I always try to keep it civil.

Beyond which, being challanged (respectfully of course) is how I learn and I think the back and forth is helpful to the larger community.

I couldn't agree more!

Yes, I agree, some of the things on my list are of little importance which is why I prefaced the list by stating “some of which matter to coral health and appearance, some are just a personal preference of the hobbiest, and some are of little use or are actually unhelpful and misleading.” My goal was to represent all of the factors that not only I think are important but that I often see being considered. I did not attempt to rank them, other than #1.

OK, that makes sense.

My contention is that even though PUR in not something that we can directly measure, even though each coral has a slightly different PUR requirement, even though no manufacturer list the PUR of their lights, even though it can be difficult thing to understand, it still is the thing that matters most since it is one thingabout our lights that most directly affects the health of our coral. Ya, maybe its a bit nuanced but that is why I summed up my point by saying, “The point here is that what matters is what specific frequencies of light are produced.” *

Except that whether they are cheap or high end, most led fixtures don't offer a spectrum breakdown of their fixtures. And even if some emit wavelengths that really aren't helpful, are they harmful? My best guess is not very if at all, so it's really not a big issue.

I think you are suggesting that, notwithstanding its importance, since we cant measure it, it's a moot point.

Not at all! I think PUR is quite important to understand. But I am saying that I don't think it needs to be considered in buying any of the current led fixtures available in the trade. Most fixtures use quality leds that are powerful enough (like 3 watts or more). And there really isn't enough difference in any of them to make it worth worrying about in your purchase decision. I don't care who makes the 460nm led, Cree, Bridgelux, Epistar... whoever. Or for that matter the bin number of the led. I want an led that is putting out light in and around the wavelength of 460nm. Whether it has a spread from 455nm to 465nm ot a spread from 440nm to 480nm isn't really going to make any difference to my corals. And how many 460nm leds are over my tank? Are there any variations in them? I assume they are all a bit different and I think that is a good thing.

I am suggesting that even though we can't directly measure it, lets understand and focus on the things that are the basis of PUR... the light frequency created by the fixture.

The only thing you really have to judge the light emitted by a fixture is by the stated wavelengths of the leds. And there just isn't that much difference between the MarsAqua ($90) and the EcoTech Radion ($750). I think if you are really concerned about the total output of your fixture, the important difference is that the inexpensive fixtures have 2 channels, blue vs white (with a couple reds and greens) and higher end fixtures (now even the ReefBreeders Photon V-2) that have multiple channels so you can control each color individually. And it's cool if you really think it makes a difference. But I've had EcoTech Radions and inexpensive Chinese boxes and I don't see enough difference to pay the $650 price difference.

So maybe there is another way of getting at my point without using PUR directly. As you noted, we do know that coral responds best to ligh wavelengths of about 400nm – 500nm and 630nm -700nm. Different literature sources provide different ranges so I give these numbers as reasonable approximations. These cover the blue, indigo, violet colors on one end of the spectrum and red on the other. For those of you that really want to understand why... it has to do with the absorbtion bandwith of chlorophyll which the zooxanthellae use for photosynthis. We also know that the green, yellow, orange light in the middle of this range have little to no value to coral (even though the human eye tends to see green -yellow the best).

No, I don't know that these wavelengths are of "little or no value" to the corals. I'll agree they have little or nothing to do with photosynthesis. But they may, and probably are important to the corals production of color pigments which protect the coral and make them colorful to our eyes. It isn't all about zooxanthellae and photosynthesis.

The number one most important thing to consider then is how well the light spectrum delivered by the fixture corresponds the the light spectrum required for coral health. I think this is a very important issue for hobbiests to understand since this issue is one of the differentiators between vendors. Cheaper fixtures, the “black box” variety, tend to produce a full spectrum of light much of which is uneccessary for your coral. This is why you see so many people buying these lights and then changing the emitters to replace undesirable ones for better ones. Higher-end lights tend to do a better job of targeting the output spectrum to the specific needs of coral. That said, you still find green emitters in higher end lights which isn't entirely bad since it does contribute to what we humans interpret as brightness, but your coral doesn't care much.

Just a comment. First you say that cheaper black boxes produce full spectrum... much of which is unnecessary and a couple of sentences later you say higher end fixtures do a better job of targeting output... you still find green emitter in higher end lights. I disagree about the inexpensive fixtures being wrong by doing 'full spectrum' and agree that both the inexpensive and the expensive fixture manufacturers all do it. They just really aren't that different.

Bottom line, regardless of what fixtures you are comparing, compare the spectrum of light the fixture produces with what sectrum of light your corals find useful and choose the fixture where these two are most aligned.

I have used both $750 EcoTech Radions and $150 EverGrow (OceanRevive and ReefBreeders) fixtures. Other than one having individual channels for each color led and the other having 2 channels of control, blue and white, there just isn't that much difference. You can make the Radion look different to our eyes by dropping out some of the unnecessary wavelengths for photosynthesis, but that may be dropping wavelengths useful to coral pigment production. But as far as coral health and coral growth, I just don't see anywhere near enough difference to justify the huge cost difference.

That way more than just my 2 cents worth, but I think the discussion is well worth our time.
 
Ron, thanks for your comments, hopefully our dialogue helps newcomers understand some of the things to consider when evaluating LEDs and that there is a range of legitimate opinion and perspective even when looking at the science.

Regards
 
One factor to consider between different lights is the overall build quality, safety, design for longevity and sourcing of components.

The Chinese Black Box fixtures have one theme: low cost. The drivers probably are not UL listed (or would fail any testing). They're going to be made from cheap parts throughout. The emitters are not top-shelf (or knockoff fake-branded top shelf). The cooling design is going to be marginal. The support is generally someone shipping you parts from China.

Are the EcoTech fixtures filled with $600 more of good quality components? No (in fact their power supplies are also meh, but at least UL/CSA listed). However, you can have more assurances that the engineering and sourcing is done with more care. It will probably last its rated lifetime. EcoTech has a reputation to uphold, and isn't the eBay seller of the month with a "NEW 2016" product (which is the same as the 2015, 2014, ... etc).
 
One factor to consider between different lights is the overall build quality, safety, design for longevity and sourcing of components.

The Chinese Black Box fixtures have one theme: low cost. The drivers probably are not UL listed (or would fail any testing). They're going to be made from cheap parts throughout. The emitters are not top-shelf (or knockoff fake-branded top shelf). The cooling design is going to be marginal. The support is generally someone shipping you parts from China.

Are the EcoTech fixtures filled with $600 more of good quality components? No (in fact their power supplies are also meh, but at least UL/CSA listed). However, you can have more assurances that the engineering and sourcing is done with more care. It will probably last its rated lifetime. EcoTech has a reputation to uphold, and isn't the eBay seller of the month with a "NEW 2016" product (which is the same as the 2015, 2014, ... etc).

Just how much experience do you have with Chinese made fixtures? Based on your comments, I'd say not much. You made a lot of bad assumptions about fixtures made in China.

Yes there WERE and still ARE some bad actors selling some crappy fixtures, TaoTronics, DSuny and others. But then you don't hear their names mentioned very often anymore, do you? Now it's Maxspect, EverGrow, ReefBreeders, OceanRevive and ReefRadiance. More recently MarsAqua has made a big splash in the shallow end of the pool (ultra low cost). And what buyer would expect the same kind of quality from an $86 MarsAqua led fixture that they would from a $750 EcoTech Radion fixture. Let's be serious.

Having 4 tanks and 2 refugiums with led fixtures from EverGrow, ReefBreeders, OceanRevive and EcoTech (all for over 3 years), I'll tell you that in my personal experience there isn't enough difference between the fixtures made in China by EverGrow (they make RB and OR as well) and EcoTech to justify $50 as far as build quality. In fact the EG made fixtures all run cooler than the EcoTech fixtures. As far as my corals are concerned, they are all equally healthy and all grow equally as well. Getting help from EG in China is a bit of a pain, but they do work with you. RB and OR, both based in the USA, do customer service pretty well, RB probably even better than ET.

If I were looking for a quality led fixture with bells and whistles like sunrise & sunset, or individual channel control of every color led in the fixture, I'd buy a ReefBreeders Photon 16 V-2 for less than half of what an EcoTech Radion cost and not give it a second thought.
 
Just how much experience do you have with Chinese made fixtures? Based on your comments, I'd say not much. You made a lot of bad assumptions about fixtures made in China.



Yes there WERE and still ARE some bad actors selling some crappy fixtures, TaoTronics, DSuny and others. But then you don't hear their names mentioned very often anymore, do you? Now it's Maxspect, EverGrow, ReefBreeders, OceanRevive and ReefRadiance. More recently MarsAqua has made a big splash in the shallow end of the pool (ultra low cost). And what buyer would expect the same kind of quality from an $86 MarsAqua led fixture that they would from a $750 EcoTech Radion fixture. Let's be serious.



Having 4 tanks and 2 refugiums with led fixtures from EverGrow, ReefBreeders, OceanRevive and EcoTech (all for over 3 years), I'll tell you that in my personal experience there isn't enough difference between the fixtures made in China by EverGrow (they make RB and OR as well) and EcoTech to justify $50 as far as build quality. In fact the EG made fixtures all run cooler than the EcoTech fixtures. As far as my corals are concerned, they are all equally healthy and all grow equally as well. Getting help from EG in China is a bit of a pain, but they do work with you. RB and OR, both based in the USA, do customer service pretty well, RB probably even better than ET.



If I were looking for a quality led fixture with bells and whistles like sunrise & sunset, or individual channel control of every color led in the fixture, I'd buy a ReefBreeders Photon 16 V-2 for less than half of what an EcoTech Radion cost and not give it a second thought.



I've had a few of the direct imports open, usually in a broken state. Combined with about 8 years experience in hardware and firmware design, including domestic and offshore manufacturing.

There are many reasons the Chinese fixtures cost so little (and cost even less if you were to buy them in RMB on the mainland), and it's not because all the US manufacturers are taking a 500% GM markup. They are designed down to a price, and to do that you cut every corner you can inside (everything from capacitors, heat sinks, fans, thermal design, wire interconnects, semiconductors in use, QA and binning, actually getting the components you specced, critical safety features - none of the Chinese fixtures I saw had any temperature cut outs or even sensing, the list goes on).

Every market has products differentiated by price points: cars, laptops, TVs, blenders, etc etc. Does the VitaMix really justify its several hundred dollar markup on the Hamilton Beach? The VitaMix will last forever and isn't designed down to a price. Both will blend your margarita out of the box. How well will both do it after 5 years of margaritas?

Seeing a lot of cheap Chinese products over the years, I make it a point to not plug anything into the mains outlet that hasn't been tested by UL, CSA or TUV. I've carried products through UL certification, and I know what it entails and value it does add to keep people safe. Neither of the prior fixtures that came my way had that. RB doesn't advertise it for the new Photons either.

I think ReefBreeders is on the right track: no longer just direct imports, but using EverGrow or another manufacturer as an ODM for different specced products. Hopefully they can exert enough control to make it work for them, and have some feet on the ground in the mainland on their payroll to enforce it. Inevitably this costs more, so as quality rises so will the cost.
 
I think ReefBreeders is on the right track: no longer just direct imports, but using EverGrow or another manufacturer as an ODM for different specced products. Hopefully they can exert enough control to make it work for them, and have some feet on the ground in the mainland on their payroll to enforce it. Inevitably this costs more, so as quality rises so will the cost.

I think you give ReefBreeders too much credit. Their Photon fixtures, even the V-2 fixtures, are just EverGrow standard fixtures with a different assortment of leds. There is nothing else different about them. And I'm not here to argue about Chinese vs US quality, that's not what this thread was intended to do. You may continue if you like, but I'm done.
 
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Ron, I think it is fair that Theartus brings up the point that there is a quality difference between fixtures. Quality of build is a reasonable criterion that someone might use to differentiate which fixture they use. It also seems reasonable to suggest that a $100 fixture is of different quality that a $400 fixture. The point of this thread is to discuss issues that a novice might want to consider or understand and the fact that there are differences in build quality is one of those things.

My reading of your perspective is that regardless of build quality, both cheap and expensive fixtures work equally well for coral health. That's a fair point as well. Both you and Theatrus have experience and insight that bring value to the community, both are making valid points and are simply demonstrating that we all value different things when making our choice of lights.
 
Ron, I think it is fair that Theartus brings up the point that there is a quality difference between fixtures. Quality of build is a reasonable criterion that someone might use to differentiate which fixture they use.

I agree completely that build quality and differences between builders is important. What I was trying to get at is the fact that Theartus didn't specify a specific brand of manufacturer as being low quality. He went after Chinese made products as a group. I think that's unfair as some Chinese product is getting to be pretty good quality. I've seen some significant improvements in some Chinese fixtures just over the past 5 years. Better fans, better stainless hardware, aluminum cases rather than steel, powder coating rather than paint, real heatsinks rather than a simple sheet of aluminum and now EverGrow has gone to Cree and Osram leds with their latest fixture.
 
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