Nutrient level in SPS tank

These are not hair algae. They are neomeris annulata. I don't know if this makes a difference tho. It seems to be growing extremely slowly (actually a little less it seems) and only on 2 particular rocks. Here is a comparison from 1/12:

IMG_20110112_203429.jpg
 
You sure have alot of space inyour tank. How tall is your tank and what type of lighting do you have? Just curious if your light is intense enough for your SPS being so low.
 
It's 2 250W Radium driving by BlueWave in Lumenarc reflectors. The lights are on 6 hours a day and 10" above water. The tank is 4'x3'x2'. The bulbs are roughly 5 to 6 months old. Unfortunately, I don't have a PAR meter so I don't know how much light the corals are receiving. My initial thought is that the corals are actually bleached because of too much light. The water is extremely clear. If you check my pictures carefully, you will see a neon green coral that's completely bleached. It used to be dark green with brown branch; now it's complete neon green.
 
Sorry just want to add one more note. I have notice SPS that are predominately in blue or purple do much better than others (say green or red). Does this mean anything? One last thing: I have notice my coraline algae are mainly blood red (instead of the more popular purple) and only in shaded area. It's showing up tiny bits here and there but they avoid the bright spots in the tank and concentrated in the over hangs where there is indirect light.
 
These are not hair algae. They are neomeris annulata. I don't know if this makes a difference tho. It seems to be growing extremely slowly (actually a little less it seems) and only on 2 particular rocks. Here is a comparison from 1/12:

IMG_20110112_203429.jpg

ah ok I do seem to see some neomeris annulata there but it looks like it is among hair algae as well. Perhaps its just the way the pic looks. I had a small bought with them as well but they seemed to just die off on their own.
 
There is no hair algae among them. :) It's hard to see but they are 100% neomeris annulata. When they are small, they look exactly like hair algae but once they grow to 3/10", the difference is clear. I wish they are hair algae because it would be easier to take care of then this crap from hell. I was told neomeris annulata only drives in SPS-like environment but I don't know if that's true or not.
 
Some of these same signs showed up in my tank. Personally, I stopped all of the coral foods...period. The oils in them can shut down your skimmer. My ETSS didn't produce skimmate for a week and had to be broken down and cleaned with white vinegar to get the oily crap out of it. You don't need ANY of that stuff, especially not anywhere near the dosages they recommend. These foods IMO are for people who barely feed their fish and the SPS are starving. Or maybe frag farmers that don't have fish in their systems.

Trust me, your nutrients are rising, and will get out of control. This stuff is rocket fuel for phosphates. Don't feed oily foods either. Foods like frozen krill, squid, mussels, clams and silversides should be left for those with large FOWLR tanks who don't worry about pristine water conditions. When I stopped feeding Oyster Feast, cleaned the skimmer and did a massive water change things looked better than ever. By feeding the fish proper foods like mysis and a quality pellet this is all you need, and your skimmer will work once again. Since I started feeding more, my polyp extension has never looked better.
 
If the Hana Checker is any indication, my phosphate level has surely raising from 0.00 to 0.02 last night when I checked. I did notice the tips of ny tri-color has lighten up a little. I don't have enough fish population yet and I am already feeding them daily. I have an ATB 840 but it has not produce skimmate in a long time even before I added Roti-Feast. The general conclusion from this thread is that my tank is just too clean and there is no organic matter for the skimmer to skim. It's a long thread so you can skip over to the last few pages where I have pictures and video of my skimmer not working. Here is another data point for you guys. My chaeto ball used to look like this when the tank is initially set up:

IMG_20101017_122635.jpg


and lately, it has all but stop growing and now looks like this:

DSCN0825.jpg


Last couple of months, I decided to pull it out entirely and replace it with another macro algae which seem to be doing slightly better with shorter fuge period but not much.

At this point, I am not sure what my next action is going to be. The lack of polyp extension (especially for milli) almost surely indicate they are not happy. I just don't know exactly what it's yet. If I have to make a guess, I think the milli frag will soon STN.

Again appreciate all the helps.
 
Time to toss the chaeto bro. I dose vodka and mb7 and my chaeto died and withered away in a month. You don't want the nutrients it absorbed getting released back into your system. I'd get a few more fish in there and feed them more.

Are you vodka dosing at all? It's rare to have the chaeto die back like that when carbon dosing isn't implemented. Taking my refugium offline and sticking with a bare bottom sump and some live rock suspended on egg crate was the best thing I ever did for my tank while carbon dosing. Now I can either grab all the detritus with a turkey baster during water changes or simply shop vac the sump out and refill.
 
I am not dosing anything at all and probably won't unless there is a clear indication there is excess nutrient. The chaeto was already gone.

What do you suspect my problem is? Too much nutrient? Too little nutrient?
 
I am trying to provide as much as I could to help you help me. Here is another picture when I initially acquired the milli frag:

DSCN0829.jpg


As you can see, most of the brown body is no gone. And compare with this photo which has a lot more blue but no more polyp extension:

Pic.jpg


Here is another comparison. This frag used to be brown with blue tip and now becomes complete blue and the tip is intensively blue:

Old:
IMG_20101119_194711.jpg


Now (in background):
IMG_20110216_200634.jpg
 
to little nutrients in my opinion ur pritty close to possibly burning the corals tissue if you have an alk shift or something shifts to fast.
 
So similar to ULNS with alk burn? My alk has been hovering around ~7.5 (usually a little lower than that) but test kits (Salifert is what I use) are probably unable to detect such small change. I have 2 BRS dosers set up which keeps my alk & cal & mag pretty stable.

Should I continue to feed Roti-Feast? Add more fish and feed more? When should I expect color, grow and polyp extension improve? I am puzzle why blue and purple seems to be doing much better than red and green, for example.
 
Your alkalinity should be fine if you can keep it there. The corals IMO aren't that bad looking. I had a "red millepora" that under my lighting (400 watt Radium with VHO Actinic) shifted to a purplish color within 6 months. It still grows fine. You would be amazed at how much the lighting spectrum can affect a coral's color within a few months.

There can be a few things happening here. Even though you have low nutrients, algae can still come around from time to time. I once had a frag with a touch of hair algae on the plug and didn't bother to properly remove it before placing it in my tank. Within a few weeks I had a slight algae bloom even though I test undetectable with nitrate and phosphate. After a few good water changes it simply starved out and hasn't re=appeared. I think too many times we attribute too many problems to phosphate. Personally I think you need more fish to feed. For me, because I carbon dose I must feed or my corals will go pale. When I wasn't feeding enough my coral polyps would close and colors would fade.

Currently in my 72 x 18 x 27 150 gallon SPS tank I have a Kole Tang, Yellow Tang, Vlamingi Tang, Emperor Angelfish, Coral Beauty, 2 Lyretail Anthias, 4 Blue Chromis, skunk clownfish, sixline wrasse and a yellow tailed Blue devil damsel.

I dose 3.5 ml. of vodka per day, MB7 low nutrient system dosage per directions once per week, change 25 gallons of water bi-weekly and feed the following:

8:00 am feeding before work: 2 cubes Mysis, pinch of Omega One Marine Pellet

6:00 pm 1 cube Mysis, 1 pinch Formula Two Marine Pellet

9:00 pm (before lights go out) 1 cube Bloodworms, 1 pinch Omega One Marine Pellet

Before I added the Emperor and Vlamingi tangs I wasn't even feeding half of this and the corals began going pale and the "peach fuzz" like you have on your rocks was abundant. I attributed all of it to phosphate so I slowly fed less and the corals lost polyp extension and began going pale. Each month I ramped up the food amounts. If I had excess nutrients then clearly the corals would begin looking worse and worse. After 2 weeks of adding more fish and fedding more my skimmer was more productive and the coral color and polyp extension returned. Every week I can see the colors getting better and better. From now on I will continue to add small amounts to each feeding until I see where the limit/threshold is before I detect organics building up.

I think too many of us feed less for fear of nutrients when in actuality we should feed more until we see where the limit lies before we see scale back. Our fish are much more plump in the wild than in most captive systems. I strive for full bellies and happy fish that look colorful and healthy. I would add one more light feeding to your tank and see how it goes. You may be surprised.
 
I was really concern about the lack of polyp extension in my milli. Milli, when healthy, should be very hairy. If you compare the 2 pictures, you can clearly see initially it has polyp extension and now it's all but gone. And majority of all brown turns into blue; it's only in the area where there is no light, the skin remains brown. I think this is a sign of bleaching.

Anyhow, so I should continue to feed more even Hana Checker is showing my phosphate raising from 0.00 to 0.02? I currently have about 10 fish but majority of them are 1" damsals. I feed daily with a mixture of Formula One, Rob's Food, etc.

You do seem to be feeding much more. Your daily feeding will probably last 2 weeks in my tank but I couldn't really increase my feeding per fish population I currently have. They are small and gets full quickly. They are, however, very healthy and active. Maybe I should really just add more fish.
 
150g + 40g sump. I would say roughly 170g total. Here is the rest of the hardware spec:

1. ATB 840.
2. BRS reactor with GFO + ROX .8 24x7 (fairly aggressively changing every 2 to 3 weeks).
3. Filter socks but only 2 days at most after water change.
4. Eheim 1260 return.
5. ATO with RKL. Kalk dripping.
6. SpectraPure RO/DI with silica buster resin.
7. SeaChem Reef Salt and recently switched to IO.
8. Fuge with a little bit of macro growing with 3 hours of photo period.
9. 2 Tunze 6105 and 1 6055 for flow.
 
I have to say that with the equipment you're running and the bioload you currently have the ROX carbon alone would be enough to strip the water column of nutrients. Boomer has documented in the chemistry forum how well carbon works....even when compared to protein skimming. ROX is great stuff...but very strong and able to pull a lot of organics out of the water. I would slow down the flow through the reactor and wouldn't change the gfo and carbon as frequently. ROX in your tank can definitely last a month. The GFO could probably last 3 months. You appear to be over filtering your tank. Pick your favorite fish retailer and get yourself a tang. It appears that your 150 is the 4 foot long and 30 high if I'm not mistaken. I get away with a lttle higher bioload because of my 6 feet footprint. This is probably why my tangs never fight.

I would stick with one of the easier tangs in the Zebrasoma family. Maybe a yellow tang or a really nice purple tang if the budget allows. The Anthias, damsels and goby I wouldn't consider enough bioload to really make a dent on the ATB skimmer....especially with all the ROX and GFO you're running.

Congratulations..you get to buy more fish and feed more. What a blessing.
 
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