Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

I looked at the diagram for the 15 pin connector and noted that pin 1 is the +10v and pin 3 is the ground. That said, my guess is that you would need more than just the 0-10v control in remote mode. It has a start/stop signal, a forward/reverse signal, Prime signal that would all need to be communicated some how. Still would be interesting to be able to control the RPM via a controller based on tank ph, reactor ph or other variables.

The pump is easy to hook up, you would just need a 0-10v dc source.

You bridge the start circuit and put the dc signal to the pump. No other connections are necessary unless you want control over that feature. Simply supplying a 0v signal will stop the drive.
 
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Awesome setup!!!! Thanks for sharing the pics.
 
I am concerned about the age of the tubing. Cole Palmer said they have no data on expired tubing, it may be viable may not. No help there but I can't blame them, the customer support is excellent
Ebay vendor said tubing is fine as long as you don't use it for medical purpose.

It's a catch 22 both vendors want to sell tubing lol

On that note, I am thinking I would be better off hunting down a head that accepts different tubing LS 17 seems to be the choice?

thanks for the thread, got me hooked and calcium reactor isn't close to being set up or needed
 
What's the life expectancy for a stepped motor used for the calcium reactor purpose? How can you extend the life of the wheels? If using a cole or any similar device to pull, would you still need a feed pump?
 
I just finished setting up my Cole Parmer Masterflex digital pump on my new reactor today. This particular CP was sold under the Manostat Carter label as a cartrdige pump but is compatible with the Easy Load heads. I added a new head and got another spare new head as well as a boat load of original Cole Parmer LS17 tubing. The pump runs from 3.5 RPM to 200 RPM. I can adjust the speed/flow in .1 increments. At 17.6 RPM it's 50ml/min with LS17 tubing. The pump is setup to pull through the reactors. I've got a Geo 818 and I had an old MRC 4"x18 rector that I set up after the Geo. I will be adding an AquariumPlants regulator tomorrow once it arrives and pulling my Reef Fanatic regulator. I shut the Co2 off for the night to purge the reactor and will turn it back on in the morning and then swap the reg when I get home from work.

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What bulkheads are you using or how are you getting them to hold a seal on those rounded containers? I have the same exact ones just a bit smaller.
 
What's the life expectancy for a stepped motor used for the calcium reactor purpose? How can you extend the life of the wheels? If using a cole or any similar device to pull, would you still need a feed pump?

These pumps are rated continuous duty and have a very long meantime before failure. These don't use a cheap tiny motor found in most tank type dosing pumps. These have a very large industrial type motor. A Cole Parmer eliminates the need for a feed pump. You will still however need the recirculation pump. The rollers on these pumps don't wear out easily. The roller assembly is steel or stainless steel on most of the easy loads heads.
 
I have had my digital brushless unit running 24/7/365 since November of 2007. It was off for about 8 months after my tank crashed in a move. I picked it up off ebay at a surplus supply store for $300

Wow, didn't realize I have been using this setup for that long! :lol: Guess time flies when you're having fun :D
 
I prefer sch80 in case of an impact. They hold up better.

You don't need to lube the easyloads but you are supposed to lube the standard loads. It doesn't hurt to lube the tubing and may extend its life slightly.

Ime it is more important to keep the rollers clean and lubed than the tube.
 
I prefer sch80 in case of an impact. They hold up better.

You don't need to lube the easyloads but you are supposed to lube the standard loads. It doesn't hurt to lube the tubing and may extend its life slightly.

Ime it is more important to keep the rollers clean and lubed than the tube.

Interesting, when I asked CP about the standard LS heads they told me there is nothing to lubricate and no maintenance needs done other than to keep the roller's surface clean. There is grease at roller bearings but they said it should never need replaced under normal use unless contaminated with a solvent fluid (at which point they would recommend replacing the roller assembly not trying to re-grease it). I asked about it when I had a fitting come loose and got salt water in the head, they said just to rinse it out with RO water and let it dry. The tech told me lubricating the roller surface or tubing would shorten tubing life as it causes the roller to slide over the tube instead of roll along it........
 
Most of the stuff shouldn't need greasing but a lot of the stuff we are buying is older and may need it. I think they say that because people tend to put all sorts of the wrong stuff in the heads that makes it worse.

Keeping the rollers and the plastic housing clean is clearly important. Interesting that the grease may decrease life.
 
So Ive just set this up for my 180. Ive never checked Alk as much as I do now since the setup.

So I did a water change with IO salt and it raised my Alk .50 dKH.

Question is when you do a water change, do you guys turn off your calcium reactor a few days so the Alk drops to your desire range?
 
So Ive just set this up for my 180. Ive never checked Alk as much as I do now since the setup.

So I did a water change with IO salt and it raised my Alk .50 dKH.

Question is when you do a water change, do you guys turn off your calcium reactor a few days so the Alk drops to your desire range?

KISS!
[Keep it simple, stupid]

It's not too big of a deal, and as corals grow this will change some. If you're really worried about it consider switching to a salt that mixes lower than IO for alk values.
 
KISS!
[Keep it simple, stupid]

It's not too big of a deal, and as corals grow this will change some. If you're really worried about it consider switching to a salt that mixes lower than IO for alk values.

Ok sounds good. Corals grow faster meow please. :D
 
So I did a water change with IO salt and it raised my Alk .50 dKH.

Question is when you do a water change, do you guys turn off your calcium reactor a few days so the Alk drops to your desire range?


I drop the alk of IO using muriatic acid. It's kind of an ordeal to make water, but the results I've had with IO vs "premium salts" make it worthwhile to me. I have to add calcium and sometimes mag, and then drop alk with muriatic and then let it off-gas for a day or so before I use it.
 
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