Your tank looks great! I have several questions for you... Why did you decide to run a bio-pellet reactor instead of GFO?
I am running biopllets in place of a fuge, but since running them, I don't see the need for GFO to keep phosphates down, since the biopellets do a great job at it. I think most people that are successful with biopellets don't run GFO. Some sources will tell you that you should not run it with biopellets.
Also, from the pictures of your sump, it doesn't look like you are running any carbon. Is that true?
That is true, I do not run carbon. I don't feel the need for it with my biopellets and my skimmer working great. I have tried to keep my system as simple as possible, and I have not seen any indication that carbon would further help me. Again, I think the biopellets/skimmer reduce the need for it. I also run a filter sock that I change every few days. I think that takes alot of crud out of the tank as well.
Also, do you think feeding your corals amino acids, oysterfeast, and rotifeast makes a difference in color/growth for you?
Yes, I do think it has helped in both coloration and in growth. I am pretty early in the stages of increased feedings. Close to a month maybe, but I have seen better colors and growth in that time period of feeding these than ever before. You just need to find the balance of enough and not enough for your tank
Lastly, you strive for a phosphate reading of .03 or less. Do you think a reading of 0.00 on your Hannah meter would alarm you? If you did reach 0.00, would you take any action to raise it slightly? Or would you throw yourself a party haha :celeb2:
Hmmm, I might throw a party, as I have never seen them below .03. Well, except for the false reading normal powder test kits give of 0....ha. I have been using Hanna digital phosphate meters for 2-3 years, and they are so much better than the powder test kits. They still have an error range, but mine seems pretty accurate. If I go awhile without a water change, or changing my filter sock, or feed too much, I will see phosphates of up to .08. When I am on top of things, it stays at .03. I am not sure it would be possible to get to a true 0, as I think there will always be some present. But the rule of thumb is .03 or less is good, and anything higher starts to reduce calcification of corals and coloration. Not saying that you can't grow coral with higher phosphates and have them look great, but I think below .03 you get optimal growth and coloration. Being below .03 would not alarm me, as I feel that me feeding the coral would make up for the stripped down water. Just for note for anyone reading this, Hanna digital meters are not out of price range anymore. I am using a new pocket version that Hanna released that was around $45. Works great.
Sorry for all the questions...
No problem, anytime...