Osmolator not turning on

[JWan]

My first Osmolator finally bit the dust after about 7 years, so I picked up a new one to replace it.

My setup is in roughly the following:
20L uncovered tank used as RO/DI reservoir
Tunze pump sits in reservoir connected to PM Kalk Reactor Input with an inline JG check valve (distance is approx 2 feet)
Kalk Reactor output terminates roughly 3 in above sump water surface, also with inline JG check valve (distance is approx 4 feet).

If I plug/unplug, the pump runs briefly and I can confirm top off is making it all the way to the sump. It just doesn't keep running. The unit is only a week or two old so there's no gunk the optical eye. On my old osmolator, I'd test it by picking the eye up out of the water. On the new unit, nothing seems to get it to turn on except a disconnect/reconnect.

If I manually move the float valve, it does sound, so that part seems to be working fine.

Any ideas?

 

[rvitko]

What does the controller show? Does it show that the pump should be on and it just is not (yellow LED) or does it show the green water level correct LED even though the water is below the sensor? The second check valve is really serving no function and may be excessive in the backpressure placed on the pump. These JG check valves typically have a very high cracking pressure (2-5psi), we use our 5074.010 with a 0.5psi cracking pressure, it is US made and all kalk resistant materials, (Polyethylene body, N Buna seal and 316 stainless spring and ball)

 

[JWan]

On startup, the lights for level and pump on come on. After 15 seconds or so, the light for pump goes off and it just displays level forever.

If I take the osmolator completely out of water, it never indicates low.

re: 2 check valves
I originally had 1 check valve and ran into some problems with kalk seaming to leak back into my FW reservoir (looking for help here http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19256783#post). At some point I found a reference to someone who tried putting two in series since they seemed to sporadically fail, so I've been trying a couple combinations of checkvalves in order to try and solve that problem.

I'm happy to try taking them out. I'm assuming you're mentioning this because this might result in premature pump failure. I did notice that when I first turn the osmolator on, if my kalk reactor is filled, the top off does still come out in a fairly strong stream.

 

[rvitko]

Something is wrong with the sensor, my guess is one of the 4 wires broke, their are four really thin wires inside that cable and they can break if it is tugged at any point, even in packaging or final assembly. They test them but before the cover is installed and the cables wrapped up. The only other possibility would be if there is something on the sensor, some physical obstruction, salt crust, lime scale, etc.

I have never tried the real JG check valves, I have tried DMFit, a Korean made knock off, while generally very good quality, Korea makes good stuff in general, I would imagine the details like pressure to open the valve may be higher. If it worked, you are probably fine, backpressure won't cause the problem you describe.

 

[rvitko]

Something is wrong with the sensor, my guess is one of the 4 wires broke, their are four really thin wires inside that cable and they can break if it is tugged at any point, even in packaging or final assembly. They test them but before the cover is installed and the cables wrapped up. The only other possibility would be if there is something on the sensor, some physical obstruction, salt crust, lime scale, etc.

I have never tried the real JG check valves, I have tried DMFit, a Korean made knock off, while generally very good quality, Korea makes good stuff in general, I would imagine the details like pressure to open the valve may be higher. If it worked, you are probably fine, backpressure won't cause the problem you describe.

 

[JWan]

Something is wrong with the sensor, my guess is one of the 4 wires broke, their are four really thin wires inside that cable and they can break if it is tugged at any point, even in packaging or final assembly. They test them but before the cover is installed and the cables wrapped up. The only other possibility would be if there is something on the sensor, some physical obstruction, salt crust, lime scale, etc.

Thanks Roger.

It's basically brand new (not even a month old) and looks it, so there's definitely no salt crust, lime scale, or anything else that I can see.

I'll try contacting you tomorrow about trying to get a replacement.

 

[rvitko]

Yes, I think it is a damage created by packaging, come by when you get time.