Owners Thread: Innovative Marine Fusion 40

So to go back a bit, I mentioned that I saw a sharp pH increase last time I changed my filter media but couldn't pinpoint it or explain it. Forgot to mention it, but over the weekend I changed out the bag of BRS Rox carbon again. That's unquestionably what caused the pH swing, as it did it again. This time the only thing I changed out was the carbon. Wore nitrile gloves from the time I pulled the basket out of the tank until I reinserted it. Rinsed a BPA-free plastic bowl out with RODI water to carry the basket in and hold it while I was changing the carbon. Dumped the old carbon in the trash, poured fresh carbon into the same sock, rinsed it under RODI water for ~ 1 minute, placed the bag back in the basket and the basket back in the tank.

This time I followed Bizacon's advice and just waited it out instead of adding vinegar. Within a few hours the pH was back to normal.

Totally baffled on this one. This is my second container of BRS carbon and I definitely didn't see any changes at all with the first container. Haven't changed anything in my replenishment process, and I've narrowed it down to the carbon definitely being responsible for the pH change. Doesn't make any sense though. Since it doesn't seem to be causing any real damage, I think I'll probably use up what I have left. But it doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling about that particular brand of carbon... although I have to admit that it's amazingly "clean" with virtually zero dust.

Anybody have another brand they really like? Preferably one that's really clean.


Thats pretty interesting. Its great you found out what caused it.
I am using plain activated carbon. API. (I actually won it in a Facebook contest) I also have a massive 5G bucket of drinking water filter grade carbon that I use in the pond and I steal a cup full from that on occasion. Just rinse well and use..Can't see buying more till that bucket is gone..Its going to be a while too!
 
which radion are you using? x15 or 30? How are you controlling it?
Sorry. I don't remember what you are using.
It has a lot to do with how i'd answer your question.
Basically though, up to 6 hours of full sun should be plenty to grow your tank. Much more than that and you'll probably start seeing algae growth.
So 12k-14k should be your daylight setting for at least a couple hours daily. You can ramp up to that and ramp down from that for the remainder of your schedule.
The iridescence you are seeing is most likely from the UV LEDs.

First thing first though..are water parameters all good?

I'm the girl who had the phosphate issues ... water parameters excellent ... I'm using the optimal color pre-set radion graph (radion 15) and controlling it through wirelessly - I just extended the moonlight bit for an additional 40 minutes to enjoy it in the evening.

Sue
 
wow - amazing tank. How long has it been running? Nice work!

This tank was setup roughly 7 months ago. The rock was transferred from 2 past tanks, never dried out or anything. Rocks are rougly 2-3 years with me.
Thank you!
 
I'm the girl who had the phosphate issues ... water parameters excellent ... I'm using the optimal color pre-set radion graph (radion 15) and controlling it through wirelessly - I just extended the moonlight bit for an additional 40 minutes to enjoy it in the evening.

Sue

I remember the phosphate issues just not which radion you had.
X15, is about half the power of the x30. I'm running at 70% for 5 hours a day.
You can probably get away with about 80-85% but I'd say to ramp up to it for an hour a day, then extend it by 30 minutes every couple of days till you reach 4 or 5 hours at 80 or 85%. Obviously, if the corals show any signs of bleaching, turn it back fast. Its always best to ramp up to these powers over a long stretch.
Running moons or low power blues don't count..most of the time!
 
I remember the phosphate issues just not which radion you had.
X15, is about half the power of the x30. I'm running at 70% for 5 hours a day.
You can probably get away with about 80-85% but I'd say to ramp up to it for an hour a day, then extend it by 30 minutes every couple of days till you reach 4 or 5 hours at 80 or 85%. Obviously, if the corals show any signs of bleaching, turn it back fast. Its always best to ramp up to these powers over a long stretch.
Running moons or low power blues don't count..most of the time!

Thank you! I will ramp up my power gradually I think !!

Sue
 
Jguinn,

I wanted to ask you - at what intensity you are running your Kessil during peak hours?

I think this would be a good use for the Neptune PAR monitor!

So... here's my programming on Kessil Power in the Apex (just to show the duration of each phase):
Set OFF
If Sun 030/-360 Then KessilDawn
If Sun 360/120 Then KessilDusk
If Sun 090/000 Then KessilDay

The KessilDawn profile ramps up from 12% intensity to 60% intensity over a period of 120 minutes. The KessilDay profile is currently set at 60% max intensity. Cloudy intensity during that phase is 38%. The profile is set to cloudy 20% of the time, with 30-minute durations of cloudiness. And then finally KessilDusk just ramps down from 60% intensity to 0% over another 120 minute period.

Does that help? Short answer is I'm running at 60% max intensity right now, and I only have one little zoa colony on a rock about 3.5" from the bottom of the tank, but it seems to be growing quite well!
 
I think this would be a good use for the Neptune PAR monitor!

So... here's my programming on Kessil Power in the Apex (just to show the duration of each phase):
Set OFF
If Sun 030/-360 Then KessilDawn
If Sun 360/120 Then KessilDusk
If Sun 090/000 Then KessilDay

The KessilDawn profile ramps up from 12% intensity to 60% intensity over a period of 120 minutes. The KessilDay profile is currently set at 60% max intensity. Cloudy intensity during that phase is 38%. The profile is set to cloudy 20% of the time, with 30-minute durations of cloudiness. And then finally KessilDusk just ramps down from 60% intensity to 0% over another 120 minute period.

Does that help? Short answer is I'm running at 60% max intensity right now, and I only have one little zoa colony on a rock about 3.5" from the bottom of the tank, but it seems to be growing quite well!

Thanks - this is really helpful. I have also run mine at a max of around 60%. I might need to spring for that Apex at some point. The Kessil controler isn't bad though but I have to occassionally pick a day to go cloudy and I just run a reduce intensity program that I set up. But I have to manually change it.
 
Thanks - this is really helpful. I have also run mine at a max of around 60%. I might need to spring for that Apex at some point. The Kessil controler isn't bad though but I have to occassionally pick a day to go cloudy and I just run a reduce intensity program that I set up. But I have to manually change it.

Not a problem. Glad to share any info I possibly can.

The Apex was probably the first piece of equipment I ordered aside from the tank itself. I can't say enough good things about it. Of course it's not an absolute necessity. But you can see what it does with lighting.

Here's another thing the Apex does that has really worked out better than I imagined. The Vortechs have a mode called Nutrient Transport Mode that's theoretically supposed to help churn up all the uneaten food and detritus in the tank. I was just messing around with the Apex programming and decided to have it put the Vortech in Nutrient Transport Mode at like 85% power after my "Feed Mode" ends. So... during "Feed Mode A" on the Apex, the return pump shuts off and the Vortech goes into steady flow at like 15% power to give the fish (and hog of a starfish) about seven minutes to eat in peace. During that time, of course, some food settles to the bottom even though I'm careful about how much I feed (even more so after my little algae outbreak). When the feed mode is over, the return pump kicks on and the Vortech REALLY picks up whatever junk made its way to the sandbed. I've learned to feed the two clowns basically right over top of the Vortech so that any uneaten food lands close in proximity to it. When the pump starts sucking up that food and blowing it around, the fish go absolutely nuts like the stereotypical videos of sharks in a feeding frenzy. They probably eat at least 50% of the total food they consume AFTER the peaceful feed mode ends. And what they don't eat gets blown right over toward the overflow on the other side of the tank to get caught in the filtration systems.

The Apex also gives me some basic peace of mind. It'll let me know if my heater dies in the winter and needs to be replaced. It knows when the power goes out and turns off everything that is non-essential to maximize the time that the UPS will run the pumps. It knows if the ATO pump runs too long for whatever reason and shuts it off until I manually turn it back on. It will shut down the ATO and/or DOS pumps if the pH gets too far out of line. I'm running the Aquamaxx HOB-1 skimmer so I added the leak detection module to the Apex as well. If the sensors detect water, they'll shut down the return pump, the skimmer, and send me an e-mail. And I don't pretend to even be using this thing to one tenth of its capabilities. But without question, I can absolutely endorse the Apex. If you end up getting one at some point, I (and I'm sure others in this forum) will be happy to share our programming with you to at least get you started with some samples.
 
Not a problem. Glad to share any info I possibly can.

The Apex was probably the first piece of equipment I ordered aside from the tank itself. I can't say enough good things about it. Of course it's not an absolute necessity. But you can see what it does with lighting.

Here's another thing the Apex does that has really worked out better than I imagined. The Vortechs have a mode called Nutrient Transport Mode that's theoretically supposed to help churn up all the uneaten food and detritus in the tank. I was just messing around with the Apex programming and decided to have it put the Vortech in Nutrient Transport Mode at like 85% power after my "Feed Mode" ends. So... during "Feed Mode A" on the Apex, the return pump shuts off and the Vortech goes into steady flow at like 15% power to give the fish (and hog of a starfish) about seven minutes to eat in peace. During that time, of course, some food settles to the bottom even though I'm careful about how much I feed (even more so after my little algae outbreak). When the feed mode is over, the return pump kicks on and the Vortech REALLY picks up whatever junk made its way to the sandbed. I've learned to feed the two clowns basically right over top of the Vortech so that any uneaten food lands close in proximity to it. When the pump starts sucking up that food and blowing it around, the fish go absolutely nuts like the stereotypical videos of sharks in a feeding frenzy. They probably eat at least 50% of the total food they consume AFTER the peaceful feed mode ends. And what they don't eat gets blown right over toward the overflow on the other side of the tank to get caught in the filtration systems.

The Apex also gives me some basic peace of mind. It'll let me know if my heater dies in the winter and needs to be replaced. It knows when the power goes out and turns off everything that is non-essential to maximize the time that the UPS will run the pumps. It knows if the ATO pump runs too long for whatever reason and shuts it off until I manually turn it back on. It will shut down the ATO and/or DOS pumps if the pH gets too far out of line. I'm running the Aquamaxx HOB-1 skimmer so I added the leak detection module to the Apex as well. If the sensors detect water, they'll shut down the return pump, the skimmer, and send me an e-mail. And I don't pretend to even be using this thing to one tenth of its capabilities. But without question, I can absolutely endorse the Apex. If you end up getting one at some point, I (and I'm sure others in this forum) will be happy to share our programming with you to at least get you started with some samples.

Are you feeding manually the same time every day or do you have an automatic feeder hooked up? Its funny because I was initialy really against getting an Apex - it simply felt like overkill (cost aside which was also a consideration). But now my job will reuire me to start traveling a lot. So I think it will give me exactly the peace of mind I'm going to need. My boys can still handle feeding or refilling of ATO water but it would be great to have insight and control over the tank from far away.

I also run the nutrient export mode after feeding and I have seen a similar effect on my fish (and the hermits and shrimp usually go nuts). JUst makes sense to get the food back in the water column and/or having my filter or skimmer deal with it sooner v. later.
 
Back
Top