I could use some input. Tank is 4 weeks in. I am seeing a hair algae bloom and have been adding snails, tiny hermits (I mean the little blue leg ones) and an algae blenny (now so fat I'm surprised it can swim). Have been doing 10 gallon water changes weekly. Algae seems to have stopped spreading, but it's still growing at the sites it has taken hold. Snails are doing a great job ... but I'm wondering what I should do. I have a little cyano on the sand bed and a little algae ... but a sand sifting star fish is doing a great job of keeping a check on that.
Here are the stats:
Ammonia 0
PH 8.2
Salinity normal range
temp - somewhere between 77 and 79 (2 different gauge readings)
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0 ... was reading next level up 2 weeks ago ... but now at 0
DKH 10.5
** Calcium - just tested in the 1100 mg/l range - had to add 25 drops to get the test to change. Wondering why? (Scratching head !!)
2 bengaii cardinals, 2 clowns, 1 algae blenny, snails, blue leg hermits and a sand star.
Running LR in one caddy ... + 22lb LR in tank. 34LB of LS.
Added one IM phosphate sponge and one carbon sponge in other caddy about 1 week ago. Have filter floss in top of two caddys - changing weekly to catch uneaten food.
Have a 5 stage RO/DI water system ... reads 0 on output...
Ideas?
Most likely cause; too much nutrients. Your phosphate kit is lying to you!
The gha and cyano are eating it faster than you can test.
You didn't mention light cycles. Or give us a pic of how it looks so I can only tell you what works from what I've experienced
Here is a course you can take: do a large wc. Maybe 15g. Then Lights out 3 days. On the 4th blues only. Then ramp back up. Test immediately following lights coming on, you'll be shocked. The wc will quickly reduce the nutrient levels but you'll still have high phosphates. Make sure to skim wet. Dumping the cup every day wet. Lights out will help starve the Gha some and the cyano may not be visible...
Now, the hard part. Once you see just how high the phosphates really are you need to strip them down to acceptable levels. If you have a reactor, load up with gfo or Phosban or your choice of pho reduction. I like Phosban. Our tanks can handle about a cup. Run the reactor on low flow if you use Phosban, tumble gfo normally. Change the media EVERY three days. It will take a week or two to start seeing reduction in pho. Don't stop changing it for a couple weeks. Then do a wc and test. if the reduction worked you may have acceptable levels. If not keep up the course until you do.
At the end of the course do another large wc. Test. If good, cut the media amount in half. Keep changing every three days. Test, test, test. If it's good and everything looks ok, extend your media time to a week, then test. If it still looks good, cut media amount again in half. Should be about 1/4 cup. Let it go for a week and test. Then go back to normal.
The downside is you are gonna have some angry coral. They'll come back shortly.
Long term, cut your feeding down. You can get away with twice a week during all this. Feed very lightly. Skim wet through all this...spot feed corals very small amounts.
It's not easy. But it works. I just went through this myself. The tank is new. It's suffering from the uglies. It will get better! The first year is the hardest.
The phosphate sponges are useless against ultra high phosphates. You need real phosphate reduction media.
Don't stress over the calcium reading now. 1100 is real high so I'd retest a couple times to make sure..
Let us know how it's going....