Ozone use

I hope its okay to revive this old thread, the information was extremely useless.

I was wondering since so much time has passed, have any of you guys tested using a lower end skimmer (under $75) such as a sea clone specifically for ozone?

I attempted using my Remora Pro but no matter what I did I could not prevent the smell of ozone. (The remora has no good way to cover all the possible places where air can leek out)
 
mnestroy, I just finished reading this old thread too and I've decided to inject my Enaly via a maxi jet (through the extra fitting they supply, which is supposed to bring air into the maxi) into a PhosBan reactor full of carbon. Doing it this way tho you'll have to have an Enaly or rig an air pump to the ozone.

I'll post in a couple of days and let you know how it works.
 
wildthing not sure that would do much, there would not be much contact time that way my understanding is the skimmer concentrates the organics and the contact time of the air/ozone mixture is what makes it effective. if your just 'blowing' ozone into a chamber of carbon that carbon will render the ozone ineffective.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8988465#post8988465 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WILDTHING
mnestroy, I just finished reading this old thread too and I've decided to inject my Enaly via a maxi jet (through the extra fitting they supply, which is supposed to bring air into the maxi) into a PhosBan reactor full of carbon. Doing it this way tho you'll have to have an Enaly or rig an air pump to the ozone.

I'll post in a couple of days and let you know how it works.

Injecting air/ozone into a fluidized bed filter will attach bubbles to the carbon, causing them to float out of the column.

You can inject ozone with a pump venturi, but it is less efficient than doing so with a protein skimmer where the gas is much more stable and has longer dwell/contact time.

Freshwater applications are suitable for this method of introduction, as ozone goes into solution readily. It's typically done in commercial systems with long runs of PVC pipe, with a long contact time. Saltwater has a lot more dissolved solids, so it's ion-rich nature causes small, stable bubbles. These stable bubbles take to long to pop, so air injection should be limited to protein skimmer use.

Using ozone with protein skimmers compromises the integrity of the bubbles, as the bubble surface losses stability. Fractionation is less effective due to the ozone, but overall skimmer efficiency is greatly improved, as organics are oxidized. I can really see a difference in the colour, consistency, and yield of the skimmer when ozone is added.

I believe I read somewhere that it's a fire hazard to expose dry carbon to ozone. Perhaps this is only in great quantities.

A gas reactor is your only other option for ozone introduction. gas reactors are used for Co2, oxygen, and ozone. They are relatively small, plumbed inline or on a bypass, and resemble a trickle filter due to the bioball contact media. The reactor fills and drains in a continual ebb and flow cycle. Some reactors are pressurized enough so that they can maintain a consistent water level at the bottom of the reactor.
 
My question is geared for people that have run ozone for one year. I am looking for a replacement generator, and the redsea don't last, and don't get me started on enaly. Does anyone use the bulb type ozone generators? I was interested in them, but was wondering how much electricity they consume compared to a CD unit? Also, Ozotech has a new affordable unit called the posidon Jr, anyone buy that yet?
 
I don't know if you can even find a bulb unit anymore. I think they still use them for spas.

My Red Sea (plate) unit is still going strong after 8 years. I don't rust the ORP reading, but I don't use the controller anyway.

Are you using a desiccant? If not, that may be the cause of the short life of your unit.

I use the Aqua-Medic ozonizer with the large Red Sea desiccant for new systems, and haven't had any problems yet.
 
Mike, Question about the install on your Deltec skimmer. I am lookig to do the same but wanted to ask a question on the install.
Did you replace the tube from the venturi feed on the re-circulation bump with O3 frendly tubing? SO from say the ehiem up to the air valve?

I am thinking of this - use the O3 frendly T to add the air valve to to controll the air in. Is this correct?

Thanks

Going to dop the same to my AP903. I have the sander 300Mg unit and using a controller as well.

Andrew
 
My redsea has been going for 1 year now, but the ozone produced is down to half. when I first bought it, i had it set at around 25-30 and had my orp steady around 350. Now, I have it cranked up to 100 now and can only bearly maintain 320. I also use a large dessicant/air drier. Ultralife still makes bulb type ozone generators.
 
I have an o3 unit but I havent used it now for over a year. I didnt really see any benefits to higher orp so it just hangs on the wall.
o3.jpg
[/IMG]the thing that is nice about this unit is the built in air dryer that regenerates itself
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10139756#post10139756 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TekCat
REEFEER714, please tell us, how do you plan to set it up?

Hello Tekcat, here is what i have in mind. Please let me know if i need anything else.

Ozone Generator: Ozonetech
Ozone Reactor: MTCPro240D, SR7, CAF12
Controller: AC3 or AC2

Total water volume: 550g
I plan to go with the 200Mg. I will start at 25% and slowly increase. I have been doing research, and read all 3 articles regarding to Ozonizer. The max i would go is 50-75%, i would like to maintain a low dosage at the same time keep my ORP at 350-400 to be safe.

What do you think?
http://www.marinetechnical.com/page9.html
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10139762#post10139762 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by redox
I have an o3 unit but I havent used it now for over a year. I didnt really see any benefits to higher orp so it just hangs on the wall.

I guess you need to change your user name then. :)

It's hard to evaluate equipment and methodology. Failure is easy to measure, but success is often hard to identify.

I can't say that I've ever seen a system improve after ozone addition, but I can definitely attest to a decline in health after its' removal.

An elevated redox potential will increase the oxidization rate of your system, but this doesn't translate to a tangible difference in all cases. A decline in bacteria and free- floating algae may be good for a display tank or commercial acclimation system, but it may only rob corals of nutrients in a mariculture application.

In your case, the Rk2 skimmer may lose too much bubble stability to be worth it. If you were to start using it again, it may be more efficient in a gas reactor, or smaller, dedicated skimmer.
 
REEFEER714, sounds like a plan :)

I looked at the website you posted, there are no prices or any indepth info on usage (except for diagrams). Whenever you get to it, please share with us what how much did they charge you for reactor and filters.. and how's it all working for ya.

Reef ON! :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10142313#post10142313 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TekCat
REEFEER714, sounds like a plan :)

I looked at the website you posted, there are no prices or any indepth info on usage (except for diagrams). Whenever you get to it, please share with us what how much did they charge you for reactor and filters.. and how's it all working for ya.

Reef ON! :)

Here is some info on the PRO240D reactor
http://www.marinetechnical.com/page6.html

They don't have the instruction manual available yet. But seem like it going to work well. I have trust and confident in MTC PRO products. I called them earlier and here is the price tag on each

PRO240D $350
SR7 $125
CAF $65

I know the price is a little high but we are talking about quality product. cast acrylic tube 1/4"wall are very expensive. I don't mind the cost, i care more about the health of my live stock. I will purchase the setup one i get enough money :D . I will use the eheim to feed the reactor
 
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