Ozone use

It will be interesting to see if you find it increases skimmate long term. Many people report it decreases their skimmate. I discuss that here:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php#11

Oxidation of Organics by Ozone: Skimming and Nutrients
Another result of breaking some organics into smaller, more hydrophilic bits (Figure 3 and 4) is that it often increases their bacterial biodegradability.27-29 Therefore, the ozone may need only to start the degradation process, and bacteria in the aquarium can finish off the organics by uptake and metabolism. Large humic acid molecules, for example, are converted by ozonation into smaller fragments that are more readily taken up and metabolized.29 This process may, in fact, be why some aquarists report drops in nutrient levels after initiating ozone. It is not because ozone directly impacts either nitrate or phosphate (it does not react directly with either), but the newly bioavailable organics may drive bacterial growth, just as adding ethanol (e.g., vodka) or sugar might. The growing bacteria need nitrogen and phosphate, and if they satisfy those needs by taking up nitrate and phosphate, the levels of those nutrients in the water may drop. That effect, however, may be only temporary as the initial burst of new bioavailable organics winds down, and a new stable state is reached with lower levels of organic material and similar levels of inorganic nutrients.

Skimming is a complex process that has many subtleties. The previous sections have discussed how ozonation modifies organic molecules , and we can then extrapolate how those processes impact skimming. Years ago it was widely claimed that ozone use increased skimming, and I claimed then that I didn't see how that could happen directly. Most organic compounds likely to be found in significant quantities in a reef aquarium will become more polar and likely less skimmable after it reacts with ozone. Figure 3, for example, shows how oleic acid (readily skimmed) gets converted into more polar compounds that will not be so readily skimmed as they will not be as strongly attracted to an air water interface.

A small portion of organic molecules in reef aquarium water may become more skimmable if, for example, they become more hydrophobic after reaction with ozone. They may also become more skimmable if they were totally hydrophobic before ozone and were transformed into molecules with polar and nonpolar parts (called amphiphilic) which more readily absorb onto an air water interface and are skimmed out.

Are there other ways that skimming might be increased besides these two processes? I hypothesized in a previous article that it was due to the growth of bacteria (either in the water itself, or bound to surfaces), and possibly also the release of new organic molecules as they grew, that caused the effects some aquarists observed.

It seems as if the tide of opinion has turned, however, and most aquarists now claim that the amount of skimmate is reduced significantly when using ozone. Many claim that the collection of skimmate has nearly stopped in their aquaria when starting ozone. Why the difference compared to past opinion? That's hard to say, and may depend on the types and qualities of the skimmers available now compared to years ago, as well as changes in other husbandry practices. In any case, the overriding experience of many aquarists today is that skimming is reduced, and the presumed reason is that the organics are being made chemically less skimmable by ozone. The remaining organics would then be removed more by bacterial processes than before the initiation of ozone in the same aquarium.
 
I thought I would jump in and share what I've built. I have a Red Sea plus 100 ozonizer along with an Aqua-Medic 1000 as it’s reactor (I emailed the company and they assured me that it's ozone safe). I'm also using a ViaAqua Aquarium Water Pump, a 200 gph pump to feed the reactor (hopefully it's not to powerful). For the air discharge of the reactor I removed the beads of a red sea air dryer and put in some carbon. The water discharge from the reactor goes through some activated carbon before entering the sump.
I'm using this setup in conjunction with Vodka dosing, both mine and the tanks, and seems to be working fine.
I'm open to any suggestions and opinions.
 
Oshkosh, I was wondering if the Aqua-Medic would work - the use of an air dryer as a carbon filter is very ingenious. Are you monitoring ORP?
 
Randy,I have modified my set-up and I am now pumping air plus ozone thru the old venturi air intake (without venturi now).Details can be seen at: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=13815154#post13815154
The thing is that no matter what I do,ORP remains low.So I suspect that the Aquazone is not producing ozone.How could I confirm?.Testing the water outlet with a OTO reactive?.Or a more specific test is advisable?.

On a different note,I liked your ozone reactor.Cheap,simple and unheard of.My brother made a similar one for injecting CO2 in his FW planted tank.It was so efficient that all the gas was diluted inside the hose.Of course the ozone-air mix won´t dissapear,so how to evaluate the needed contact time/hose length required? :confused:
 
What is the ORP with and without ozone?

As long as it went up substantially, I don;'t think the final value is important since the goal is clear water, not a specific ORP value. :)
 
It is now 170mV,same with than without.But I made a definite test;smelled the exit line for ozone and nothing came.So I have to conclude that my new Aquazone is not producing ozone:(
 
Funny how our own senses are sometimes the best instruments. I'm new to Ozone and have all the bells and whistles for my Ozone generation. I noticed and even experimented so there is no doubt in my mind about the following:
If I crank my Ozotech above "2" on the dial I cannot smell Ozone through the carbon and the ORP doesn't rise very much, but my Six Line Wrasse will go nuts and act like its on a crack binge bouncing off the glass within a few minutes. When I crank the Ozone down, the wrasse calms down within 15 or 20 minutes.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13833378#post13833378 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Randy Holmes-Farley
OTO? ozone T? oxidant?
A common reactive for chlorine,sold for swimming pools and such.I think it goes for Ortho Toluidin something.I read somewhere that it reacts with other strong oxidants like ozone.
 
I am not familiar with an OTO chlorine test, but a typical chlorine test kit is suitable. i discuss it here:


http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-04/rhf/index.php#2

from it (a bit down from the linked location):
A chlorine or ozone test kit can be used to detect ozone and its byproducts in seawater since these compounds will react with the reagent in a standard chlorine kit. When using a Hach CN-70 chlorine kit (using the directions for either free or total chlorine), I found experimental values ranging from 0.02 to 0.5 ppm "chlorine equivalents" in different setups that I tried, not just varying air flow). Since such kits (which are based on a method called DPD or DDPD) detect a variety of different highly oxidizing species (hypobromite, ozone, etc.), it must be remembered that it is not an indication of just the total free ozone remaining. Nevertheless, the convention is to report all of these highly oxodizing species as if they were a single chemical (unless noted otherwise in a published study). The units can be chlorine equivalents or ozone equivalents, with 1 ppm chlorine equivalent equal to 0.7 ppm ozone equivalents (that value simply being the ratio of the molecular weight of O3 (48 g/mole) divided by the molecular weight of Cl2 (70.9 g/mole). Note that a test method using indigo blue (indigo trisulfonate) tests for ozone only, and not the byproducts, so do not choose that method unless you only want ozone measurements.
 
please tell me all of the components of good quality and safe i would need for a 700 to a 1000 gal system... brand new to ozone thanks
 
When you're selecting equipment, in addition to using a carbon filter to remove residual (airborne) ozone, you should try to purchase an ozone generator with a built-in timer that allows it to run for periods of time, or run it on an external timer. This way you can assure you aren't producing too much ozone for delicate marine organisms, as controllers are costly and fallible. Alternatively, you could use ozone only at night when you are not in the room and fish are not active. A higher redox potential in the evening will compensate for lower PH values and dissolved oxygen levels caused by photosynthetic organisms.

In general, hobbyists fall behind in changing the air drier, so ozone production is greatly diminished. Coupled with an aquarium rich in organics, residual ozone should be minimal. An efficient method of introducing it to the system water helps. Some small skimmers don't allow much dwell time, so you may experience higher airborne levels of ozone.

Your aquarium isn't the only place you need to be careful with. Photocopiers and laser printers produce 0.05ppm ozone, and 0.5ppm in some instances. Many copiers have built-in carbon filters, but nobody ever changes them, so they quickly become useless mechanical filters. Small offices with a few copiers and printers running have significant levels of ozone. It's yet another reason to work your way up from copy boy:)
 
Before using ozone, my H & S A300 skimmer used to collect good quantity of skimmate, as shown on the picture, the skimmate was collected for one week.

80813.jpg


Two month ago, I hooked a Red Sea Aquazone 200 Ozonizer into one of the air intake of Ehaim pinwheel pumps on my skimmer, I found the water clarity is greatly improved, all the corals (including SPS) are thriving, but the skimmer almost collected nothing, it almost stopped working. I start to question why I need a skimmer if it collects nothing, and I am wondering if my tanks can do well by using ozonizer without a skimmer.



James
 
Ozone destabilizes bubbles, causing them to pop prematurely. Ozone use decreases the amount collected by protein skimmers, but it increases the efficacy of the protein skimmer. If you are stuck on the idea that protein skimming is paramount, you can use a smaller (cheap or used) protein skimmer as an ozone reactor. Protein skimmers make very efficient ozone reactors, but there are other types of gas reactors. Many implement a column filled with bioballs that fills and drains on a siphon and siphon break system.

If it was my choice, I would stick with what you have. It's working as it should.

This thread sums up a few studies on protein skimmer efficacy. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1208815&perpage=25&pagenumber=4
 
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