Par 38 LED spotlights

montrose & beeker Thanks for the input!!! Thats what i was thinking 2 20k with 80 optics, just wanted to ask before i buy.
 
I finally got these wired:
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Now I need a PAR meter to test them. They are 2x30 watt single LED emitters, one blue and one white.
 
I saw those 30w led's a while back. I'm glad you're trying them because I've been interested in seeing how they work out. I also found some aquarium-specific fixtures where the integrate some smaller led's, 3w or something, with one or two of the 30w led's.
 
I was thinking of running the 16 of the 50w they have on my tank, but I'm really hesitant due to the lack of experience anyone has had with them.
 
Here:
http://www.lck-led.com/p715/Aluminu....html?osCsid=3bc22d8f610c4d790834c8124a00918f


They now have 50 watters. They are Chinese and their English and resonses to Emails are terrible.

How high are you going to mount those above the tank? I'm interested in what kind of spread you will get. I was looking at the these from the same site:

http://www.lck-led.com/p491/Aluminum-LED-Flood-Light-w/-28pcs-3W-LED/product_info.html

The only problem I see with these is there are no optics on them so you are getting a huge light spread from them. I wonder if you could take the glass cover off and put optics on them to concentrate the beam.
 
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Ever since getting PAR38's, I've been experimenting with the making of a wall mount light fixture that projects over the tank. I could buy a ready made fixture that looks nicer, but...
I work with a CNC cutter, so I cut out some 1/4" ABS to use as a base. I used ceramic sockets from HD at $6 each, 2 packs of lock washers/nuts @ $1.25 each, a roll of speaker wire @ $10, some nuts and bolts- $3, 2) pvc pipe brackets @ $3, 3/4" pvc conduit box @ $6, a 3/4" sweep @ $2, 3/4" pvc pipe $2, Decora switch and switch plate $6, lamp plug $2.

Version 1 was made for 3) PAR38 bulbs and was somewhat crude.
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Version 2 is currently in use with 4) P38's and an Ecoxotic stunner strip.
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Version 3 will be similar to V2, but with a side and top cover to hide the majority of the wiring and sockets. The black wire will also be inside the tube. It will also use 1" pvc because 3/4" bows under the weight. Notice the 'safety' fish line attached to the ceiling. V2 doesn't need the safety line, but I sleep easier at night knowing it's attached. It does keep the fixture closer to level though.

Here's a pic with all of the lights on- The stunner strip actually balances the colors better.
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How high are you going to mount those above the tank? I'm interested in what kind of spread you will get. I was looking at the these from the same site:

http://www.lck-led.com/p491/Aluminum-LED-Flood-Light-w/-28pcs-3W-LED/product_info.html

The only problem I see with these is there are no optics on them so you are getting a huge light spread from them. I wonder if you could take the glass cover off and put optics on them to concentrate the beam.

I plan on mounting them 5-6" above the water line. The light spread with the 2 together is about as wide as one of my 175 watt MHs.
 
Update:
I've had these par38 lights for about a month and a half. They have turned all my brown sps's frags back to original or better coloring. Here some update photos.

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Also notice the red monti caps are getting new growth on the edges.
 
i don't want to sound overly critical...casue I think it's great that they brought the colors back...But why is there so much hair algae? I looks like it's attached to the frags in the pics...I was just wondering if this was due to the lights...or if there is another explanation? It seems weird that the lights are great for saving the coral colors, but also casue algae to grow in excess.

I just want to clarify that.
 
The GHA was not from the lights ! It came from a acan frag I introduced to the tank. I have placed a few snails in the tank to clean it up.
 
Ever since getting PAR38's, I've been experimenting with the making of a wall mount light fixture that projects over the tank. I could buy a ready made fixture that looks nicer, but...
I work with a CNC cutter, so I cut out some 1/4" ABS to use as a base. I used ceramic sockets from HD at $6 each, 2 packs of lock washers/nuts @ $1.25 each, a roll of speaker wire @ $10, some nuts and bolts- $3, 2) pvc pipe brackets @ $3, 3/4" pvc conduit box @ $6, a 3/4" sweep @ $2, 3/4" pvc pipe $2, Decora switch and switch plate $6, lamp plug $2.

Version 1 was made for 3) PAR38 bulbs and was somewhat crude.
gallery_2631654_582_162534.jpg

gallery_2631654_582_447734.jpg

gallery_2631654_582_439968.jpg

gallery_2631654_582_359687.jpg


Version 2 is currently in use with 4) P38's and an Ecoxotic stunner strip.
gallery_2631654_582_206754.jpg

gallery_2631654_582_449747.jpg



Version 3 will be similar to V2, but with a side and top cover to hide the majority of the wiring and sockets. The black wire will also be inside the tube. It will also use 1" pvc because 3/4" bows under the weight. Notice the 'safety' fish line attached to the ceiling. V2 doesn't need the safety line, but I sleep easier at night knowing it's attached. It does keep the fixture closer to level though.

Here's a pic with all of the lights on- The stunner strip actually balances the colors better.
gallery_2631654_582_85014.jpg

Nice set up...

How is the color and intensity of the par38 vs the stunner strip? Both are similar in price, just one has 3 watt bulbs while the other has 1 watt bulbs.
 
cool to know...cause I really want to try some of these out...but hate battleing algae. :P

Par38's will absolutely not cause algae without excess nutrients. I've had mine running for a couple of months and my rocks are solid purple.

BTW, there is a huge difference in PAR between the 1w and 3w leds. The color is nice, but unnatural IMO. That's why I'm supplementing mine with t5's, to round out the color spectrum.
 
Par38's will absolutely not cause algae without excess nutrients. I've had mine running for a couple of months and my rocks are solid purple.

BTW, there is a huge difference in PAR between the 1w and 3w leds. The color is nice, but unnatural IMO. That's why I'm supplementing mine with t5's, to round out the color spectrum.

Supplementing LED's with T5's is like copying the info from the computer screen onto paper by hand instead of using the 'print' button.

If you know how to mix and match white and blue LED's your colors should be similar to your T5's. After all, the pigments in the T5's are a mix of blue and white too. When I added the 453nm Panorama, it really toned down the royal blue Crees and made the overall effect more pleasing to the eye.
 
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