Par 38 LED spotlights

Anemone (fellow NYer) how high do you have your Rapid LED's from the surface and from the closest SPS ? In the pics it seems quite close but you don't seem to experience any bleaching. Mine was 8 inches from the surface and it cause some bleaching to the frags that were dead center of the light. It is currently about 11 inches from the surface.
 
My acros are just to the left of the Rapid LEDs partially hitting them, and directly under the BoostLEDs. The Rapid LED is about 9-12" above the acros(9" at the tip of the tallest acro). The BoostLED are 1.5" higher.

As a matter of fact the acros are open and the polyps are extended better than ever. I did also burn back one of the leathers in the upper lefthand corner.
 
So from the picture, I gather that you are running 6 of the Boost LED's and 3 of teh Rapid LED's. Is that correct? Also what arraingment do you have in each bulb, blue/white?
 
So from the picture, I gather that you are running 6 of the Boost LED's and 3 of teh Rapid LED's. Is that correct? Also what arraingment do you have in each bulb, blue/white?

Yes you are correct.

They are the 12K versions of each. The BoostLEDs are a little bluer. I think it is because their white LEDs look a little more cool white as Rapid LEDs whites look more natural white(a little more yellow).

Boost LEDs are 3:2 blue:white.
Rapid LEDs are 4:3 blue:white
 
Here is a shot of my 54 corner tank with the new lights I just got.

I converted a tochiere lamp from Lowes in order to hang them and have a high tech look to the light fixture.

243.jpg


Here it is with the lights on....

244.jpg


These are so much better than what I have been using.....a set of LED panels from ebay.
 
msr224 - That looks great!

I would recommend taking the domes off like you did the one in middle and then re-install the PAR lamps. The domes will likely prevent the heat sinks from cooling properly and may cause the LED's to overheat.
 
msr224 - That looks great!

I would recommend taking the domes off like you did the one in middle and then re-install the PAR lamps. The domes will likely prevent the heat sinks from cooling properly and may cause the LED's to overheat.

Thanks for the advice Sammy. I was wondering about that. They don't get "too hot" but....I don't want to risk anything with them. I think I will try drilling a set of holes around the top of the hood in order to allow the heat to rise and flow out of the holes. Hopefully that will work. I will get a temp before the holes and after.

I am amazed at how good these look on my tank. I think they are a really good choice.

I raised and straightened out the lights in order to get a little better coverage.being 24 watt fixtures I think 48 watts total will be enough for my tank. I could always add another in that center fixture if needed later.

I am going to put a dimmer on these and see how they look in low light for evenings and early day. Then if they look good I may add an automatic dimmer. I probably won't go this route but I want to see what they look like in lower light......just tinkering.
 
Anemone,
It appears that your Monti's are more under the Boost LED's whiel the Zoa's are more under the Rapid LED's. Is this correct? Doyou think maybe if the Zoa's were more under the Boost they would do better?

Thanks for all of your info. I'm trying to decide which way I want to go on my tank. I'm looking at 8 bulbs total, two rows across the tank placed at 21" apart between bulbs and about 18" between rows. I'm just not sure if I like the more whited out look of the Rapid lights.

Do you think you could post a comparision picture of just the Rapids and just the Boost ligts on? Thanks.
 
-snip-

I am going to put a dimmer on these and see how they look in low light for evenings and early day. Then if they look good I may add an automatic dimmer. I probably won't go this route but I want to see what they look like in lower light......just tinkering.

I'm pretty sure you can't use a normal dimmer for any of the PAR30 bulbs. You would be well off to thoroughly research the idea before trying it.
 
Thanks for the advice Sammy. I was wondering about that. They don't get "too hot" but....I don't want to risk anything with them. I think I will try drilling a set of holes around the top of the hood in order to allow the heat to rise and flow out of the holes. Hopefully that will work. I will get a temp before the holes and after.

I am amazed at how good these look on my tank. I think they are a really good choice.

I raised and straightened out the lights in order to get a little better coverage.being 24 watt fixtures I think 48 watts total will be enough for my tank. I could always add another in that center fixture if needed later.

I am going to put a dimmer on these and see how they look in low light for evenings and early day. Then if they look good I may add an automatic dimmer. I probably won't go this route but I want to see what they look like in lower light......just tinkering.

Do not use dimmers on these bulbs unless the vendor says you can. Most of these PAR 30/38 lamps are not dimmable and will be damaged if used on a dimmer.
 
Anemone,
It appears that your Monti's are more under the Boost LED's whiel the Zoa's are more under the Rapid LED's. Is this correct? Doyou think maybe if the Zoa's were more under the Boost they would do better?

Thanks for all of your info. I'm trying to decide which way I want to go on my tank. I'm looking at 8 bulbs total, two rows across the tank placed at 21" apart between bulbs and about 18" between rows. I'm just not sure if I like the more whited out look of the Rapid lights.

Do you think you could post a comparision picture of just the Rapids and just the Boost ligts on? Thanks.

Yes the Boost LEDs are over the montis more, but there is one under the Rapid LEd near the center top getting blasted just 5-6" under the water(10-11" under the LED). The Zoas and palys are definately doing better under the Boost LEDs. I am also amazed that the Monti Cap at the center bottom is growing so fast being down so deep(about 25" from the Rapid LED).

Here is Boost LED only:

2010227.jpg


A little bluer and nowhere near as bright as the Rapid LED.
 
I'm just not sure if I like the more whited out look of the Rapid lights.

They are not as "whited out" as they are in the photos. The white balance is very difficult to adjust with LEDs. However, the Boost LEDs whites are more true 6500-7000K as the Rapids are more 5000-6000K. The banding is less noticable with the Boost LEDs and the color is more 14K as the Rapids are 12K. If you have high light corals they will appreciate the Rapids more.
 
I will see what I can do about doing just the Rapids. It will take some time with the Holidays coming close and working so much OT I may not have time till the new year.
 
I'm pretty sure you can't use a normal dimmer for any of the PAR30 bulbs. You would be well off to thoroughly research the idea before trying it.

Do not use dimmers on these bulbs unless the vendor says you can. Most of these PAR 30/38 lamps are not dimmable and will be damaged if used on a dimmer.

These are a new bulb from Orphek and they are dimmable with a common household dimmer switch. It's their PR-25.

I would just like to see what they look like going through a cycle of dimming.

So far I am VERY happy with the look of them.

All of my corals are reacting well to the light so far.
 
Anemone,
Thanks for the info. From the way you have described the lights, I don't think I need to see a picture now.

As far as corals go, I'm going mostly with Monti Caps. So far I have a large orange one that's doing great and I recently put in a Idaho Grape and am waiting to see how it grows. These corals are more than half way up in the tank. About 12" below the surface for the orange and 18" for the grape.

I do have a large RBTA that is about 14" below the surface. I have a coupel of challice that I'm trying out now along with a branchoing hammer. I mainly want to go with the monti's and add in some zoa's where I can to fill in.

Right now everything is under 2 X 400W DE MH 14k bulbs that are on a light mover so the the corals are not constantly being blasted. I want to try the PAR bulbs as replacements and to get more light in the tank as well as lower my electrical usage. I'll have to decide how I want to set the bulbs up and which way to go. Thanks for your input.
 
msr,
You got a link or more info on thos ebulbs? I just did a goole on them but can't find them, even on the Orphek website. They seem like they may be a better bulb than the rapid or boost as they are a new design of LED that penetrates deeper.
 
msr,
You got a link or more info on thos ebulbs? I just did a goole on them but can't find them, even on the Orphek website. They seem like they may be a better bulb than the rapid or boost as they are a new design of LED that penetrates deeper.

They are new to the market and aren't really out yet. I got a chance to buy a set by luck. They are coming.....soon.

Here is the info I got from the manufacturer.... I am copying this right out of my email.....

This is a 24 watt Par 38 bulb....

Includes
6- 2 Watt LEDs @ 15000k
4- Blue LEDs @ 450-460nm
2- UV LEDs @ 400nm - 410nm people call it UV but it is wrong to say it UV ,it's just at the low end of the spectrum ,UV you canot see.
 
Back
Top