Par readings

[ffmedic]

So with the clubs par meter I got a range between 260-280 just below surface

130-160 mid

90- low hundreds on sand bottom should I raise the light ? My hammer and torch I moved to a pc light tank and there happy the par on that tank was 15 or so topping out at 34 on the upper levels what do u guys think?

 

[swk]

I wouldn't raise it. That's pretty low to begin with

 

[ffmedic]

Saw a youtube video from vivid reef using the same par meter and there sps and acro were in the 230 range doing well so idk my torch and hammer hated the led light like it was way too much and my sps seem to be doing well so idk

 

[ffmedic]

When I lowered theta light the readings were around 500 on the surface and 300 middle high hundreds/200s on the bottom

 

[CrippledStoner]

The lower light is in better ranges. My lps i run 80to180 i know sps do good around 300+ but some seem to do good around 200 if its a deeper water acro. This is just my experience with my kessil 360we.

 

[Reef Bass]

Don't raise the light +1.

Grant has very efficient reflectors and when his tank was at its prime, he had over 700 par in places. As ballpark ranges, I'd consider 250 to 500 for acros, 200-300 for montis, 100-200 for lps. I had a Lakers monti that wouldn't maintain its yellow without 300+ par. Some acros like 500.

In my experience, bleaching of coral color can occur from a significant relative change in light intensity, which is often mistaken for an absolute "too much light" condition. If the par is ramped up slowly, no bleaching will occur.

Some of the best looking deepest purples I've seen were on high par acros. Grant's GARF Bonsai comes to mind.

On the opposite end of the scale, Grant had one chalice that looked best around 80 par.

 

[ffmedic]

I get what you're saying just worried because my LPS did not open under leds like it was too much light but my other concern is the light is non dimmable so o don't want to bleach stuff I'll play with it ty for all the advice keep it coming lol

 

[Dragonvale]

Don't you have to make an adjusted calculation with a PAR meter and LED's (if your testing on a LED fixture)? I was big on LED's and fascinated when they first came out since they stated they can compete with an MH. If I'm correct they multiplied it by 10-15% to get a more accurate PAR. Maybe someone can correct me?

 

[Reef Bass]

My recollection from Dana Riddle's lecture is add 20% as a ballpark. If meter says LED par is 100, it's likely closer to 120.

 

[frost0fractal]

similar readings

similar readings

I run dual Hydra 52's over my 80 gallon, 10 inches off the water, and got similar readings with the club PAR meter, 80 - 280 depending on location in the tank, given the 20% rule, that means my actual PAR around the tank is 96 - 336, I may fiddle with lowering the lights a little or increasing the power, I currently am running them at 50% power at peak.

 

[dgphelps]

Interesting, I run LEDs and the corals all look great and are growing. Some of the dirtier colored zoanthids I got are actually coloring up nicely. I'm tempted to put myself in line for the PAR meter but wonder if that won't actually make me a bit more neurotic than I need to be. After all, I should be able to see signs of fading, lack of growth, etc if the lights aren't cutting it right?

 

[Steve Ruddy]

Low light corals do well for me in 50-100 par. Right now I have a hydra 52 on a 19" deep tank. They are 15" from the water surface and I'm getting 125 @ the sand level.

 

[frost0fractal]

It is worth noting, that even though the PAR I was seeing with that meter seems a bit low, everything in my tank is quite happy.

 

[Steve Ruddy]

It is worth noting, that even though the PAR I was seeing with that meter seems a bit low, everything in my tank is quite happy.

Well there you go.

 

[Reef Bass]

It is worth noting, that even though the PAR I was seeing with that meter seems a bit low, everything in my tank is quite happy.

Excellent. But could they be happier?

 

[woodnaquanut]

Excellent. But could they be happier?

Oh Ken, you are such a trouble maker!

My very limited use of a PAR meter leads me to wonder how accurate the numbers are or have to be. I have similar feelings about water testing. More of a trend thing than absolute values.

So if I raise/lower the lights or for LEDs, increase/decrease the power, I'd like to know how much the light levels changed. Along the same lines, knowing the values at different points in the tank would be useful for new coral acclimation. None of the above really need accurate numbers, just consistent numbers.

 

[Reef Bass]

Thanks John.

In my opinion, there is an analog scale of living, with existing at a minimal level (not dying) at one end and prospering (growing, reproducing, etc.) at the other. Just because things haven't died doesn't mean optimal conditions exist.

 

[woodnaquanut]

In my opinion, there is an analog scale of living, with existing at a minimal level (not dying) at one end and prospering (growing, reproducing, etc.) at the other. Just because things haven't died doesn't mean optimal conditions exist.

I agree! My tank has definitely gone thru 'not living-not dying-some growth-wild growth' stages. Not every type of coral is on the same scale/timeline. So far acros have only gotten to the 'not dying' and just a bit of the 'some growth' stages.