Underwaterparadise
New member
Looks great Pete!!
Pete's 210 build
- Thread starter P.Kelly
- Start date
JRaquatics
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12993551#post12993551 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by petes97
No, mine came with it, but it was included by Mike at Reef Specialty. It is from ACE Hardware. Silicone Grease/Lubricant, I think.
I haven't glued my riser yet. What Mike said is this. The top of the "T" on the riser should be at the seam on the top of the body between the body and the cone that rises to the neck.
I haven't cut and glued mine, but the red lines are the ones you want to line up.
I would suggest to go lower at least to the top of the reeflo lettering. If I were to do it all over again I would line the top of the tee to the center of the Reeflo lettering.
P.Kelly
New member
Wow, I hope that isn't really the recommendation, as this makes this skimmer VERY hard to place. That is only about 12" above the ground then, which makes placement under a stand IMPOSSIBLE if you want to drain it into a decent sized sump. This is HORRIBLE engineering if this is truely your experience. Since I haven't glued mine up yet, let me know why. It will NOT work for me if this is the case.
jtarmitage
Active member
Pete, it may be that you'll want to drill a hole in the sump and use a bulkhead to connect the skimmer drain so that you can still use the skimmer effectively without pushing the collection cup up against the top of the stand. That way it'll still function as usual under ordinary operation, while still hold water when the power goes out.
P.Kelly
New member
Jeremy, I'm going to have to do that anyway, and I can't raise the skimmer anymore, as it is 27" tall and I have 27 and 3/4" under my stand. I'm just saying that if I need to lower the outlet tube then the sump I just built has to be severyly modified, as I built the bubble baffles just below the height of the skimmer outlet. I'm already planning on having to go through the side, albiet near the top. Argh! Frustrating.
JRaquatics
New member
You can run it the way you posted as I forgot that you will not be upgrading it in the future due to the stand. The only reason to have it lower would be if you wanted to feed the skimmer more than normal and still have control on skimmate output. With the way it is now you can feed it up to 200-300 gallons and still be able to adjust it for wet or dry skimmate.
I have mine set right above the Reeflo lettering, which is not much lower than were you plan on having it.
You can also place the output underwater as long as there is a breather (tee after the bulkhead).
I have mine set right above the Reeflo lettering, which is not much lower than were you plan on having it.
You can also place the output underwater as long as there is a breather (tee after the bulkhead).
P.Kelly
New member
Quick update:
I'm working on modifying my Sunpaq 2x40w PC ficture for a fuge light. It is designed for a 20" wide tank, and my sump is 22" deep, so I've got to do a very slight amount of trimming and I should have a new fuge light.
I also poured a little ammonia in the tank today. The cloudiness cleared up yesterday and the ammonia was still reading almost 0, so in went a small amount, enough to bring the reading up to 1ppm. I also tossed in a fresh, uncooked, jumbo shrimp for the bacteria to feed on as the ammonia is used up.
Finally, I'm leak testing the new sump. It has been a few hours and no leaks in the bottom inch or so, which is where I would be most concerned. The bottom seam is the hardest to get even without air bubbles. I'll try to get it routed tomorrow so I can start working under the tank this weekend.
I'm working on modifying my Sunpaq 2x40w PC ficture for a fuge light. It is designed for a 20" wide tank, and my sump is 22" deep, so I've got to do a very slight amount of trimming and I should have a new fuge light.
I also poured a little ammonia in the tank today. The cloudiness cleared up yesterday and the ammonia was still reading almost 0, so in went a small amount, enough to bring the reading up to 1ppm. I also tossed in a fresh, uncooked, jumbo shrimp for the bacteria to feed on as the ammonia is used up.
Finally, I'm leak testing the new sump. It has been a few hours and no leaks in the bottom inch or so, which is where I would be most concerned. The bottom seam is the hardest to get even without air bubbles. I'll try to get it routed tomorrow so I can start working under the tank this weekend.
P.Kelly
New member
July 25, 2008 - Test fitting the sump
I got a reading of 8ppm Ammonia this morning, and Darcy was guessing it was a little lower when she tested this afternoon. The sand bed is getting a slight film to it, but the ever powerful vortechs are keeping the sand moving a little.
I sanded the edges of the sump this afternoon and put it under the stand for a test fit. Everything about this system is going to be tight, close or otherwise down to the wire. Here's to a little engineering, planning and some luck.
I got a reading of 8ppm Ammonia this morning, and Darcy was guessing it was a little lower when she tested this afternoon. The sand bed is getting a slight film to it, but the ever powerful vortechs are keeping the sand moving a little.
I sanded the edges of the sump this afternoon and put it under the stand for a test fit. Everything about this system is going to be tight, close or otherwise down to the wire. Here's to a little engineering, planning and some luck.
P.Kelly
New member
Josh, 1/2" cast acrylic cost me about $8.50 a sq/ft for Acrylite GP, you can do the math, it was not cheap, using about 33-34 sq/ft.
That said, 3/8" is a heck of a lot cheap, maybe $6.50 sq/ft, but you'd probably need a eurobrace.
I'd be happy to talk to you about building one, but you may find it cost prohibitive. It takes me about an hour to finalize the design and put together a cut list, 1-2 hours to cut and route the pieces to size and 3 hours to assemble over the course of 2 days, and then another hour to route the edges flush and and an hour to sand the corners smooth. I'd need to find a way to speed things up to make it cost effective to build these things for other people, plus I'm not interested in cutting into Keith G's business.
Maybe we can work out a trade of some sort... Give me a ring.
That said, 3/8" is a heck of a lot cheap, maybe $6.50 sq/ft, but you'd probably need a eurobrace.
I'd be happy to talk to you about building one, but you may find it cost prohibitive. It takes me about an hour to finalize the design and put together a cut list, 1-2 hours to cut and route the pieces to size and 3 hours to assemble over the course of 2 days, and then another hour to route the edges flush and and an hour to sand the corners smooth. I'd need to find a way to speed things up to make it cost effective to build these things for other people, plus I'm not interested in cutting into Keith G's business.
Maybe we can work out a trade of some sort... Give me a ring.
JRaquatics
New member
You may want to turn the skimmer one more time so that you have better access to the cup.
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