PhosbusterPro

T

The Saltwater Kid

New member
Okay, I have battled cyano before and lost...everything when I used a chemical means to get rid of it and it ended up killing almost everything in my tank. My water has been stable and good for a few months now but I'm starting to see tiny bubbles attaching to my rocks. My question is would it be all right to stick a media bag full of something like PhosbusterPro in my minifuge even if it might not be cyano to just make sure i have no phosphates or would this do harm to my tank if i didn't need it?
 
What did you use chemically that almost killed all your livestock, just curious... I use phosgaurd, like it cause it does not leach phosphates or silicates back into your tank. I keep mine in an external overflow box, which delivers from my refugium back into the sump.... It gets lots of flow...
 
I used chemi-clean. I guess I am asking if I can use something like Phosguard or Phosbuster even if what I'm seeing isn't cyano...just to keep my phosphates at "0". My phophates test good as it is but if what I am seeing is the begining stages of cyano it could be eating up any phosphates that might be in the tank and giving a false "0" reading.
 
I really don't know, but if you are sure you are not detecting any phosphates, then you should be good. I would just keep testing, and if you do detect any phosphates, just use a micro sock with phosgaurd or something similair until you test zero again. I would also make sure that you are not testing nitrates....good luck...
 
PhosbustrPro is a liquid not a solid. It is an iron based product that flocs/precipitates out that the phosphate.
 
I haven't had much luck getting phosguard to work in either marine or freshwater in a canister. The iron based (GFO) products work the best, I have used Rowaphos with great success. Also I beleive Phosguard is aluminum oxide and there is some debate as to leaching of the aluminum into your tank and it's effect on coral. I never had it leach off when I used it but that was only for about 2 weeks.
 
why dont you just test your phos to see what its at and if its to high just do a larger waterchange like say 50%
 
From all Phosphate removers I have tested I would rank them in the following order:
a) PHOsR from Warner Marine
b) Phosban from Two Little Fishies
c) Rowaphos from Rowa

Rowaphos is the one with most adsorbent capacity but tend to be difficult to rinse and clumps very easily as carbonate gets precipitated. Also is just too effective in removal, it does it so fast that critters in the tank do not have time to adjust

Phosban has less adsorption than Rowa but because is cheaper adsorption per dollar compensate with Rowa. It is easier to rinse than Rowa but also clumps

PHOsR being pelletized has less dust so it is easier to rinse. When used in a bag (and reactor) because of the shape of the granules it gets more uniform flow troughout the media which helps reduce the clumping. Because it does not clumpo as easy it maintains its effectiveness until really exaused.

Using a GFO even when phosphate is low or non existant will not hurt anything in the tank. Start at half the recommended dose for the first application if the phosphates are high. once the phosphates have been lowered go to the recommended amounts.
 
My phosphates were once as high as 8 ppm (total PO4) and I first used PhosbusterPro to knock it down to 1 ppm over the course of about a week. I would do a dose at night then a 10% water change the next day, then wait a day and repeat the process. I did three doses like this. After I got the phosphates down to 1 ppm I cleaned out the canister filter and added a full bag of RowaPhos (RP-25 on MarineDepot), my tank is 15 gallon nano. This has kept my total phosphates down to 0.30 ppm and orthophosphate at 0. The ortho is what most test kits test for, I do the total at work as it requires an acid digestion. When the PO4 was high I had hair algae every where. I bought 12 astrea snails who mowed it down in 2 weeks to nothing. Now I only need to clean the glass about once a week as compared to everyday and also no dino or cyano probelms. I will still dose the PhosbusterPro if I see the PO4 increasing in addition to teh RowaPhos use.
 
I think i might try the PhoSaR as that sounds interesting being pelletized. Champion Lighting and supply has it for $10 and they're close to me in PA so I think I'll try it.
 
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The thing is my phosphates are reading low (normal or good...however you want to look at it) but there are still tiny bubbles attaching to my liverocks and spots of dark maroon/red algae...I'm not sure if it's cyano and was wondering if I could take preventative measures with a phoisphate remover just in case it is with no ill effects? I do weekly 10% water changes as it is using R/O water. I would like to use either a granulated or pelletized media in a small media bag and stick it in my minifuge (don't have a reactor) for dispersal. I just wanted to make sure that if I used a phosphate remover that it wouldn't have negative effects on my tank water chemistry if the phosphates weren't a problem?
 
@The Saltwater Kid

I used the Phos-BusterPro and I must say it works perfect and it's not dangerous.

Especially to control the PO4 in a low range it's very comfortable because you could calculate how many mililiter you need to dose for getting a certain PO4-level.

For me this is one advantage against the dry PO4-adsorbers.

Note: The Phos-BusterPro requests a KH around 7-8 dH° to work! Test your KH before dosing and Ca-Level and KH again after dosing and correct them if it's necessary. Maybe Calcium could be a "katalysator" for that PO4-removing-reaction.

Another generally important thing: This product reacts very fast - so, if you have an high PO4-level, it is recommanded to reduce step by step your PO4-level to safe your corals. Corals don't like fast changing of PO4 and NO3-levels.

Wether it helps you against cyanos is another thing, because cyanos have often different sources.

Sudad
 
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