promoting zoanthid polyp budding!

S

Sound

New member
I've had my zoos for over a year and while they look happy, they haven't exactly spread at all like I've seen at my LFS store. How exactly is the best way to promote budding? What exactly as far as water parameters promotes budding? I've got nitrite (0), nitrates (30ppm), p.h. 8.2, ammonia (0) and I know my calcium is in check 450+ ppm. Is there one particular parameter that speeds things up?

I'd like to try Vivid aquariums Zoo Picks but if I can't have them budding and spreading, then there's really no point.


and I doubt it's the lighting it's 150w MH 20K ushio bulb.
 
Hmmm, do you feed your aquarium? I feed a lot. I target feed my LPS and feed the tank Oyster Feast and DT's phytoplankton. I've never witnessed zoas close up on some food, but they are filter feeders, thus the DT's and Oyster Feast.

I've gone a month without feeding, due to lack of cash, and there was a noticable decline in growth. I feed DT's 2-3 times a week and Oyster Feast 1-2 times a week. I target feed my LPS 2-3 times a week. HTH,

Fcamdog
 
I have phytofeast, but was always hesitant to dose too much because I don't want to increase nitrates. So 3 times a week is ok? How much should I feed at each feeding considering I have one clam, one zoo colony 30+ polyps and some hairy mushrooms?

Would this alone speed up growth?
 
Is alk very important to budding? I remember mine was a bit high.

for flow I have stock pumps and a Hydor Koralia 400gph and I've ordered another 850gph Koralia to help out. This sufficient? Well I did a good sand bed cleaning and water change so it should be drastically lower
 
As for flow, what you have depends on the size tank and how much rockwork you have. I currently have a 20g. The return from my Eheim and a Koralia nano is plenty of current for the way my tank is set-up. I don't like having the hurricane of water movement most people associate with keeping SPS, especially since my tank is dedicated to zoa's and a few LPS.

I tank feed the DT's the amount suggested on the container 2-3 times a week. I think it says so much for a 50g and I cut that amount in half. Sometimes when I am busy I just eyeball it, feeding about 1 teaspoon with no ill effects.

If I start to notice a lot more algea on my glass I cut back on feedings to half for about a week and decrease my photo period. I don't think algea on my glass is really that bad though, because when I clean the glass I'm really feeding my filter feedings corals at the same time too, ya know?

Fcamdog
 
None at all at first I thought they weren't opening as much anymore because I upgraded lighting and then because I had an infestation of aptsia. Now, well I'm not sure anymore. As far as I know they were fine before, not growing, but opened up beautifully and everything. Now some polyps don't open at all. How do I lower or raise alkalinity? If I remember correctly my alk was too high before.
 
Firstly, find out exactly what your alk is at. Alk is directly linked to calcium in our tanks, for example low calcium levels are a result of high Alk so secondly, I would find out what the exact calcium is (more than 450ppm also seems high).

There are many buffers available but before you start to dose anything, take note of this...

One caution: many people get faulty readings from aquarium test kits. Some of these problems are the fault of the kit, and some the fault of the user. Regardless, if an aquarist were to “correct” a problem that was really only due to a faulty measurement, then the tank may go from fine to disaster. So please, before making any big corrections to water chemistry, confirm the reading with a different kit, preferably a different brand. This caution should especially apply if the measurement does not seem to make sense based on what you have previously added to the tank.
 
Yeah, first I'm going to get my nitrates down with a protein skimmer I ordered a few days ago. Doing a water change today also to help speed it up. I also ordered a calcium and alk test kit to check how my levels are. I checked everything else and it looks fine. P.H. 8.3, Am & nitrite 0, and salinity 1.024
 
I can't imagine my zoas not growing. One of my colonies went from 17 polyps to HUNDREDS in the span of about 6-8 months.

Temp: 80.5
pH: 8.0
Alk: 7 (little low)
Calc: 400
Nitrate: 0
Nitrite: 0
Amm: 0

I don't dose anything and I don't do very many water changes but the zoas overrun my tank :) Now... Getting some of my LPS to grow is challenging (Weird though as my SPS grow fine)

chillincrab.jpg
 
CoRPS said:
I can't imagine my zoas not growing. One of my colonies went from 17 polyps to HUNDREDS in the span of about 6-8 months.

Temp: 80.5
pH: 8.0
Alk: 7 (little low)
Calc: 400
Nitrate: 0
Nitrite: 0
Amm: 0

I don't dose anything and I don't do very many water changes but the zoas overrun my tank :) Now... Getting some of my LPS to grow is challenging (Weird though as my SPS grow fine)

chillincrab.jpg
Click to expand...


do you have a protein skimmer?
 
i am having the same problem but i am in the process of getting another test kit. i also put mine in direct flow and i think they dont do as well.
 
Zoa's prefer a slightly 'dirty' tank over a ultra low nutrient one so a touch of nitrates would be of some help I believe...
 
Sound said:
Yeah, first I'm going to get my nitrates down with a protein skimmer I ordered a few days ago. Doing a water change today also to help speed it up. I also ordered a calcium and alk test kit to check how my levels are. I checked everything else and it looks fine. P.H. 8.3, Am & nitrite 0, and salinity 1.024
Click to expand...


Sounds like a good plan, that skimmer will help with the nitrates...
 
Urchinhead said:
Zoa's prefer a slightly 'dirty' tank over a ultra low nutrient one so a touch of nitrates would be of some help I believe...
Click to expand...


I think you are confusing nutrition and nitrates, they are not the same thing. Nutrition is indeed a good thing however nitrates are from excess waste and should be removed by good skimming and WC's. Low nitrates are not lethal for polyps but IMO you should always be shooting for 0.
 
Also, would getting atinic lighting help? I have 20K mh bulb right now and it looks nice. Adding atinic lighting might make my tank too blue looking, but if it'd help for growth I guess I wouldn't mind. What do you think?
 
dalston said:
I think you are confusing nutrition and nitrates, they are not the same thing. Nutrition is indeed a good thing however nitrates are from excess waste and should be removed by good skimming and WC's. Low nitrates are not lethal for polyps but IMO you should always be shooting for 0.
Click to expand...

Pardon me! You are right! I am involved in another thread where a heated discussion is going on over clams benefit from nitrates or not in terms of growth/health and I crossed it over to this. I should have said they benefit from a slightly dirty tank where you feed items in the 50nm range like cyclopese etc...
 
Sound said:
Also, would getting atinic lighting help? I have 20K mh bulb right now and it looks nice. Adding atinic lighting might make my tank too blue looking, but if it'd help for growth I guess I wouldn't mind. What do you think?
Click to expand...

IMO, actinics don't do much for growth as the PAR levels are very low, they do make the polyps look nice though :D

What size/how deep is your tank? a 20K lamp is more suited for a nice deep tank, you will see better growth with a hotter bulb...

Urchinhead said:
Pardon me! You are right! I am involved in another thread where a heated discussion is going on over clams benefit from nitrates or not in terms of growth/health and I crossed it over to this. I should have said they benefit from a slightly dirty tank where you feed items in the 50nm range like cyclopese etc...
Click to expand...

:thumbsup:
 
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