Purigen anyone??

I used it for a number of years and recently stopped about 6 months ago.. Has anyone else noticed green algae growth in low nutrient systems while coral colors remain at peak and believe it to be silicates??? I haven't gotten my silicate test kit from salifert yet. Anyone testing for silicates???
I don't do taht many water changes due to my natureef denitrifier and coral colors are all good.. My po4 fluctuates between 0.00 and 0.05 when I feed mysis with garlic heavily during the cold weeks my wife has left the window open.. I find that when I do this thi start of ich on my powder browns is gone in 2 days..
 
I used it on a nano tank. Seemed to work well for a limited space application like that. Seems like there are better options in larger systems (like skimmers, DSB, algae refugium, more space for live rock, etc.)
 
Algae need nutrients to grow...So do corals its all about balance. The fact that you have measurable po4 means you have nutrients. Maybe more than you want.

Any uneaten food or fish waste rots...Producing nutrients. When a fish takes a crunch 80% of the nutrients are still there. That’s why fish eat other fish droppings:sad2:

Different organisms compete for these nutrients...Some cool ones prevail but most often some nasty ones prevail. I've seen this in my frag tanks with bad algae. My frag tanks are part of my main system and had to add the right organisms aka clean up crew to my frag tanks.

Be careful too many you solve the problem quickly then they starve and die…More nutrients.:mad2:

It’s all about a balanced ecosystem.:dance:

Purigen is rather expensive for a large reef. Myself I prefer a more natural method of nutrient reduction.

Its all about balance. If you find it hard to achieve balance but Purigen helps.

If you have bad algae you have two choices…Find an organism that will eat it and break it down further or remove the nutrients in a less than natural way.

Bill

BTW the long version is a thesis
 
I don't do taht many water changes due to my natureef denitrifier and coral colors are all good..

I do water changes with only RODI with quality salt to replace trace elements...

A lot cheaper than adding stuff. Also it removes nutrients.

Live Rock and Live Sand should be your denitrifier. Its just surface area for bacteria, anaerobic or aerobic.

Bill
 
Algae need nutrients to grow...So do corals its all about balance. The fact that you have measurable po4 means you have nutrients. Maybe more than you want.

Any uneaten food or fish waste rots...Producing nutrients. When a fish takes a crunch 80% of the nutrients are still there. That's why fish eat other fish droppings:sad2:

Different organisms compete for these nutrients...Some cool ones prevail but most often some nasty ones prevail. I've seen this in my frag tanks with bad algae. My frag tanks are part of my main system and had to add the right organisms aka clean up crew to my frag tanks.

Be careful too many you solve the problem quickly then they starve and die"¦More nutrients.:mad2:

It's all about a balanced ecosystem.:dance:

Purigen is rather expensive for a large reef. Myself I prefer a more natural method of nutrient reduction.

Its all about balance. If you find it hard to achieve balance but Purigen helps.

If you have bad algae you have two choices"¦Find an organism that will eat it and break it down further or remove the nutrients in a less than natural way.

Bill

BTW the long version is a thesis
Thanks I over fed when I added a 1in goldflake that never started eating and died anyway.. That's when my Po4 was 0.05.. My po4 ha sgone back down since then.. Purigen can also be regenerated which I do, and 1 jar does like 500 gallons how do you figure it's expensive?? My total water volume is around 450..
 
I do water changes with only RODI with quality salt to replace trace elements...

A lot cheaper than adding stuff. Also it removes nutrients.

Live Rock and Live Sand should be your denitrifier. Its just surface area for bacteria, anaerobic or aerobic.

Bill

I have more than enough rock and overfeed all the time.. Been barebottom for almost 10 years now, sand will hold on to phosphates in the places that can't be stirred by clean up crew, if you don't believe me move a rock by accident and test you phates .... My denitrifier definetly cost less than water changes.. Total water volume for me is around 450 gallons..
 
I've never noticed that purigen actually does anything that is the basis of this thread... My system has multiple fail safes.. My system is capable of lasting 4+ days without electricity.. How many people can say that?? How??? Oxygen reactor..
 
I over feed my LPS system with no worries as what the fish dont eat the corals will.

My 330 SPS is bare bottom and at over 600 gal total volume I still change 160 gal a month. I do have a seperate refug on this system and find a DSB and lots of rock cant hurt.

Bill
 
Is your refugium connected to both systems and is it 440 gallons??? Impressive size on the fuge that alone should keep your nutrients good..
 
bob also has a nice little toy on his system as well, bob i've thought of trying it myself, thinking long run it would replace carbon and phos. if slow rate basically would turn into a bacterial field, working on denitrification. could be wrong.
 
I use purigen. It will bind organic materials similar to what gac (granualr activated carbon)does. I use gac too.They may each have affinity for different organics so using them in combination is not a bad idea.
 
used to use purigen when i was trying to figure out my cyno outbreaks...since then use rodi regular changes and huge fan of chemi pure elite.yes may take out a little but frequent changes seem to put it back..
 
I have been using Purigen for many years on my mixed reefs. I had a concern about chemical warfare with the different varieties I keep. No problems with this, so my guess is it's working. I usually keep 5-6 bags of it in my sump & regenerate about every 4-6 weeks, which is where the savings come from with this product. No messy black powder everywhere either!
 
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