Question on Pump for Phosban Reactor.

[Raptor72]

I have a two little fishies Reactor 150 that I've been running bio pellets with a Mag 3 pump. The pump doesn't seem to have enough umph to make all of the pellets roil, and I end up with some stagnant areas that turn into mulm after a while.

I'm looking to switch to phosban instead of pellets. Should I get a bigger pump? Also what kind of pump does everyone run with theirs?

 

[Newsalth2o]

I bleed mine of my Mag 9.5 return pump.

 

[scubabum1983]

I run my TLF phosban reactor with a little power head so the granuals just tumble a bit almost like a fluidized bed, but not to the point where they are blasted. I look at as better contact time is more benificial than max flow through the reactor.

 

[aquaph8]

I agree, you don't want to tumble that stuff too much cause it'll grind up into little pieces.

 

[Raptor72]

I agree with the excess tumbling. Right now though, only a small portion is actually moving. How much is supposed to go in the canister?

I'm running a Mag 18 for the return which I think is a little more than is necessary. I would like to use some of the flow from that pump for the reactor, but I'm not sure on how to do that plumbing. It would get rid of the heat put out by the Mag 3.

 

[scubabum1983]

Couple ways of doing it. It all depends on how your return is plumbed. You will need a couple ball valves, a PVC T, and some vinyl or poly hose. The big thing is to not reduce the diameter of your primary return line to the tank at all. That would increase the resistance on the pump and reduce your flow unessisarily.. Now depending on how your return is plumbed either hard plumbed with rigid PVC or with flexible hose. If its hard PVC cut into your return line 6 to 8 inches above your return pump and add the T. Use barbs or schedule 40 PVC fittings to divert some of the water. On the side of the T going up toward your tank add in the same size ball valve as the return line. On the side of the T going to your reactor you have some choices. You can add a reducer and run a smaller ball valve and put a barb in and run a smaller more appropriate vinyl or poly line to your reactor. The ball valves allow you to dial in your flows to what you desire for the given media, as well as allow for service and changing of media without shutting down the tank flow.

 

[Raptor72]

Ok, I think I have the jist of it. I wish I would have added this extra piece when I plumbed everything, live and learn. So here's what I have underneath the sump.







This the return.

 

[Newsalth2o]

Looks like the easiest would be to cut in a barbed T in the flexible line. Then reduce the T down to probably the 3/8 tube that your reactor will take. Price the valves before you buy since many times a 1/2 PVC ball valve will be $4 and a 3/8 will be $9. So it will go "t" then valve then reactor. You can do it.