Questions of upgrades to RODI

Planefanatic

New member
At the FAOIS garage sale I picked up a dual DI resin add-on. I put the resin in the containers and packed the really well. Also I added a pre-filter before my Spectrapure rodi. A bit over kill, but i had the canisters so I figured u would put them to use. I now have a 7 stage rodi. Filters and order are as follows;

5M sediment, 1M sediment, .5M sediment, Carbon filter, Reverse Osmosis, DI 1, DI 2.

To my questions, What would be causing the pressure to Fluctuate between 5-8psi? My psi never dips below 65 psi when it has the fluctuations; would I need a booster pump? Also should I have a booster pump on the system now that I have so many stages?

Thank you
 
Ok well i guess I understand now. No u don't need a booster pump if u r above I believe 45 psi. 65 psi is plenty even could add a second membrane from BRS at 65 psi
 
Thanks for the response. Sorry if it was a bit confusing. The 5-8psi is the fluctuation range. The psi never drops below 65. Though it will climb up to about 70 and drop to 65psi. It's not a rapid fluctuation. Very slow. The product line is not producing like before, though that would most likely be the extra di filter correct? Sorry about the dumb questions.
 
That or neighborhood pressure or someone in your house flushing the toilet or starting the dishwasher or washing machine thats when my pressure drops ......I can tell around 6pm to 7pm in my neighborhood my pressure drops on my rodi 5psi I guess its when everyone is getting home and using a lot of water
 
Yeah there is absolutely no need for a booster pump, you don't need a booster pump unless it drops below 40psi. With that being said, the higher the psi the more efficient your ro/di will be.
 
Thank you all for the posts, I just wanted to see what you all thought. I didn't think I needed a booster on it but just wanted to be sure. Thanks again
 
IMO, the three sediment cartridges is more redundant than necessary. I would swap one for another carbon cartridge. Two .5 micron solid carbon blocks of good quality will do more for you and lessen the load on the DI portion. This configuration will extend your resin's life and should save money. At minimum, make sure to individually measure TDS leaving both DI cartridges. Swap #2 for #1 when #1 begins to show any amount of detectable TDS, ie 0 to 1 ppm. Following this will protect the aquarium from introduction of Chloramine or Ammonia if present in the source water.
 
I went to FAOIS today and got the 2 carbon blocks lol. Also I was interested in what you all get for a tds reading after your carbon block/s. I believe mine is way high than it should be after the carbon. I am running 4 ppm after the ro membrane though.
 
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