Rebuild and recovery of a dead tank

[jason2459]

lol I wouldn't take a road trip just to see my setup. But if you're ever in the area you're more then welcome to stop by.

Trust me my setup is not really showy nor is my tank. Its cables, wires, tubing, and plumbing everywhere. My basement sump room is cramped and thanks to my previous SRO 3000 skimmer has some nice dried up brown crud all over my plumbing down there. My display was used so scratches everywhere and I had to reseal it all and reinforced the corners for good measure. It's mostly rock now I lost all my LPS. Far from tank of the month and I'm never going to even attempt to have colorful sticks everywhere to be one. It's all function and very little aesthetics. Just a small slice of the ocean for my family and I to enjoy.

 

[Dkuhlmann]

I head down to Omaha on occasions and will let you know net time I make the trip.

Each and every one of our tanks is that little piece of the ocean we call our own. They are as individual as each of us that puts forth an artistic forethought into the finished product.

It sucks losing corals for sure. I'm fighting brown jelly with my Duncan colony now and don;t think I'll win it. Time will tell.

 

[jason2459]

I was mostly disappointed about the fish I lost. Especially my female clown and one of my cardinals that was one of the first fish I got and were mating regularly. I have to figure out if my one bangaii cardinal is a male or female and get it paired back up. I also lost a few other great fish like a mag fox face, red velvet fairy wrasse, and one of my orange back fairy wrasses. I need to somehow find a male one of those to pair back up with the one orange back I still have. I also lost a great tiger pistol shrimp which I got with my yellow watchman goby. Both were tiny and I think were the first things besides snail I put in my tank back in 2009. They grew a lot over the years. Yellow watchman is still there and amusingly paired up with a peppermint shrimp.

 

[jason2459]

Past couple days my ORP has been climbing back up. This morning was the biggest jump hitting 396. Now to see if it gets back over 400 and stays in that 400-420 range. Then my theory is I'll have a nice thick ATS screen again in another week and a half. This will really solidify my thoughts that the Turbo ATS is directly effecting my ORP values and one of the best things I've ever done for my water quality. Plus it let me know there really is such a thing as to much flow.

 

[Buzz1329]

I was mostly disappointed about the fish I lost. Especially my female clown and one of my cardinals that was one of the first fish I got and were mating regularly. I have to figure out if my one bangaii cardinal is a male or female and get it paired back up. I also lost a few other great fish like a mag fox face, red velvet fairy wrasse, and one of my orange back fairy wrasses. I need to somehow find a male one of those to pair back up with the one orange back I still have. I also lost a great tiger pistol shrimp which I got with my yellow watchman goby. Both were tiny and I think were the first things besides snail I put in my tank back in 2009. They grew a lot over the years. Yellow watchman is still there and amusingly paired up with a peppermint shrimp.

Hi Jason,

Great thread.

Wish I could say I read every post, but life is too short.

But your skimmer blows my mind. I have an SRO 3000int on my 180, which I was pretty happy with until I read your thread. What is the make and model of your skimmer? Got to get me some of that.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[jason2459]

Thanks and don't worry I don't think I've read all the posts myself.

The SRO line is great at pulling in a lot of air with a lot of water turn over. They are just touchy and I don't feel the body is well balanced for that amount of water flow.

Right now I'm using an aquamaxx em300. It pulls in a lot more air then I thought it would but doesn't pull near as much water flow as the bubble blaster making it a lot more balanced for the body its in.

 

[Buzz1329]

Thanks and don't worry I don't think I've read all the posts myself.

The SRO line is great at pulling in a lot of air with a lot of water turn over. They are just touchy and I don't feel the body is well balanced for that amount of water flow.

Right now I'm using an aquamaxx em300. It pulls in a lot more air then I thought it would but doesn't pull near as much water flow as the bubble blaster making it a lot more balanced for the body its in.

Thanks!

So you're getting a bunch of dark smelly skimmate every day?

I get 1/3rd collection cup of wet skimmate every day or 2. Not dark, stinky stuff -- almost like color and thickness of coca cola , but neck is generally coated with thick sludge when I clean it every other day.

Sounds like I should check out the Aquamaxx em300.

Only hesitation is I tried an Aquamaxx Cone S 3 skimmer, while waiting for a warranty replacement of bubble blaster pump from CoralVue, and it was much less efficient than SRO 3000INT. I've kept the Aquamaxx as a back up, but maybe I'll try to sell it, and go for em300.

Also, I too have a Turbo ATS (I have the L2) which I got last fall for my 180 (same tank SRO3000INT is on). I can't seem to get the same production of algae you and others are getting. I was especially interested in your posts about covering blue LEDs with cellophane tape, and will be trying this tomorrow. Am I correct that you kept the tape on even after boosting intensity of red LEDs?

Finally, I noticed at one point you had discussions with Bud about boosting flow on your ATS.

I am currently using Rio 1400 pump running full throttle on my ATS, which is sitting on top of my 18" tall sump (with 10" water level). What are you using to feed your ATS?

Much appreciated,

Mike

 

[Buzz1329]

OK, I just reviewed some of your posts on your skimmer, and see (e.g., post #1365) that you've got a lot going on there with your skimmer that is beyond my ken. Swabbies, ozone and CO2 reactors, oh my. So I withdraw my questions about your skimmer but would really like to get answers to my ATS questions, if you don't mind.

Thanks again,

Mike

 

[jason2459]

lol yeah it seems complex at first but really it's all to simplify my life or at least the part that has to maintain the tank.

Since you have the int version I would look at getting one of those neck extenders. It would allow more dwell time and I think handle the higher water draw. I would like to get a neck extension for mine but its the sss model and is an odd neck size so they would have to custom make one.

As for the ATS I can't remember what Bud sold me. He talked me into a bigger model and glad he did. I started about half open if I remember right and as the screen mature I opened it up a small amount each time I cleaned off the screen. It looks like wide open was to much flow. I'll have to look back at my emails to see which pump I got.

As for the blue LEDs yes, he suggested I do the scotch tape over them while it was maturing. It's still there. I have the flow cut back a tiny bit and the lights on 12 hours a day. I might increase that time after this next cleaning next week.

I initially did a strip straight across both

But he suggest small squares just to cover the direct led light.


Edit. Thought I had a picture of it on my phone still showing the small squares directly in front of the blues.

 

[jason2459]

Found the conversation. For the L3 he suggests that 1400 or 1700. He suggested the 1700 for more flexibility and that's what I got.

Also as I am reading back I probably should have bumped up the hours of lighting before going full throttle on the pump. Looks like I'll try 15hours a day after next week. He's running his lit 24/7.

I'm also signed up for his next version of the Turbo ATS. I'm going all out this time and looking to get the biggest model he will be coming out with which will be comparable to an L8. Which he doesn't have currently. But from what I understand is it will be same length as the L4 but taller.

 

[jason2459]

Oh and my ATS sits on top of a 40 breeder and pump is in about 10" of water depth right on the bottom.

40 breeder is 17" height. What the actual distance is from pump out let to ATS inlet I'm not sure.

Maybe you have to much flow. I'd put the scotch tape over the blues first and see what that does. Also,maybe increase the photo period. I have been suggested and have been doing one thing at a time though.

 

[jason2459]

And I got the battery backup online just in time. Power has been out at my house for the past few hours.

 

[jason2459]

Power's back and wife reported gyre was pumping away the whole time. I'm getting stats in fusion again and looks like before the power cut out my ORP hit 403 this morning. It hit a high of 401 yesterday morning. So, I'm slowly climbing back into the 400's again.

 

[jason2459]

ORP hit 404 this morning. Creeping up a small bit at a time. I kind of over fed late tonight so there's a good dip to start out the night when it's usually starting to rise already.


And it was because what I just wrote up in the next post happened which proceeded in some programming and timing around feeding...

 

[jason2459]

Yep, I got myself a 2nd gyre and two icecap interface modules.

:bounce3:

Now I'm set along with that battery backup. One of the gyres is hooked up and the icecap module will automatically reduce the power to the pump which I didn't realize and thought I would have to do some apex programming for that but I don't. That was a nice surprise.

BUT I did get to play around a bit with the programming and just starting off with something pretty basic for right now. The new gyres being sold right now are a bit different from the original ones that I got. For one it comes with the "silent" suspension mount and the motor unit has the new cable come out the back that shouldn't fray like the original did. I definitely notice the new motor's cable is a bit thicker but a lot more flexible I also noticed another change in that the bushings at the end are different. I tried to take a picture of it but they aren't all white ceramic like the original. I assume they may be nylon and quieter?

AS you can see in that picture the new gyres are coming with the foam critter guard covers. So, I'm going to try them out. There's the fine and the course. I put on the coarse one. It actually is not reducing the flow much at all. The 7 mesh definitely takes a hit on the flow rate by a good 15% but the coarse foam is pretty close to on par with being completely open. At least that's the way it seems right now but my 7 mesh is pretty well coated right now and has been in use for a while with no cleaning on it. And I could also be seeing a difference in the landscape from the left and right side. You'll see in the picture below I have a lot more rock and big cave on the right side and mostly open water column on the left side.

Now what I will be testing it out for though is long term flow rate. I don't want to have to take it out every couple days because it's completely clogged up. In my apex programming I do have the gyre's reversing direction for about 5 minutes every time the AFS feeder turns on which is 4 times a day. At least I think it is programmed to do that. It's logging and I'll find out tomorrow. Also, on the plus side the reverse flow is drastically lower then the forward flow especially with the guards on and will give the food a chance to be eaten before being slammed into some unreachable crevice. It's almost a perfect cleaning while feeding mode at least I hope so. Time will tell.

I'm also testing out a new placement for the gyres during this trial run for the foam cover vs. my 7 mesh critter guard. I have put them on the back wall on each side of the center over flow. I really like this so far. It's kind of a hybrid approach it seems between getting the tremendous flow and low profile of the gyre and placement of traditional powerheads. Which I've never been very good at getting power heads pointed at the right places. With the gyre it just doesn't mater it's flow is going every where right now with it on both sides like that. It goes right along the surface and hits that glass causing chaos everywhere. If you want turbulent flow with the gyre this is the setup for you. lol

I have the programming pretty basic with constant speed as I really didn't like the pulsing or at least I didn't get something dialed in I liked. I found the constant caused enough chaos I liked it. But since I have the guards on I wanted to still reverse them and blow off some of the build up.

So, here's the programming for right now until I play with it some more. But right now I like it and will see if my reverse mode during feedings will work.


Virtual Outlet for feeding time reversal. vfee_A8 is on for several minutes and the defer extends the reversal mode a few more minutes longer
[ vRevGyre_A1 ] ( Cntl_A1 )
Program Type: Advanced
Display Icon: Left/Right Arrows
Logging: Enabled
Program:
Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Outlet vfeed_A8 = ON Then ON
Defer 003:00 Then OFF

PROFILES

[ SpdF_GyreL ] ( PF1 )
Type: Pump
Synchronize: Disable
Divide By 10: Disable
Initial Off Time: 1
On Time: 0
Off Time: 0
Minimum Intensity: 70
Maximum Intensity: 70

[ DirF_GyreL ] ( PF2 )
Type: Pump
Synchronize: Enable
Divide By 10: Disable
Initial Off Time: 1
On Time: 0
Off Time: 0
Minimum Intensity: 0
Maximum Intensity: 0

[ SpdF_GyreR ] ( PF3 )
Type: Pump
Synchronize: Disable
Divide By 10: Disable
Initial Off Time: 1
On Time: 0
Off Time: 0
Minimum Intensity: 80
Maximum Intensity: 80

[ DirF_GyreR ] ( PF4 )
Type: Pump
Synchronize: Enable
Divide By 10: Disable
Initial Off Time: 1
On Time: 0
Off Time: 0
Minimum Intensity: 0
Maximum Intensity: 0

[ SpdR_GyreLR ] ( PF5 )
Type: Pump
Synchronize: Disable
Divide By 10: Disable
Initial Off Time: 1
On Time: 0
Off Time: 0
Minimum Intensity: 100
Maximum Intensity: 100

[ DirR_GyreLR ] ( PF6 )
Type: Pump
Synchronize: Enable
Divide By 10: Disable
Initial Off Time: 1
On Time: 0
Off Time: 0
Minimum Intensity: 100
Maximum Intensity: 100



Variable Speed Outlets for my Left Gyre and Right Gyre

[ Spd_GyreL ] ( base_Var1 )
Program Type: Advanced
Display Icon: Fan
Logging: Enabled
Program:
Set SpdF_GyreL
If Outlet vRevGyre_A1 = ON Then SpdR_GyreLR


[ Dir_GyreL ] ( base_Var2 )
Program Type: Advanced
Display Icon: Left/Right Arrows
Logging: Enabled
Program:
Set DirF_GyreL
If Outlet vRevGyre_A1 = ON Then DirR_GyreLR


[ Spd_GyreR ] ( base_Var3 )
Program Type: Advanced
Display Icon: Fan
Logging: Enabled
Program:
Set SpdF_GyreR
If Outlet vRevGyre_A1 = ON Then SpdR_GyreLR


[ Dir_GyreR ] ( base_Var4 )
Program Type: Advanced
Display Icon: Left/Right Arrows
Logging: Enabled
Program:
Set DirF_GyreR
If Outlet vRevGyre_A1 = ON Then DirR_GyreLR

and of course my full programming can always be found at reeftronics.net under my username.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

AS you can see in that picture the new gyres are coming with the foam critter guard covers. So, I'm going to try them out. There's the fine and the course. I put on the coarse one. It actually is not reducing the flow much at all. The 7 mesh definitely takes a hit on the flow rate by a good 15% but the coarse foam is pretty close to on par with being completely open. At least that's the way it seems right now but my 7 mesh is pretty well coated right now and has been in use for a while with no cleaning on it. And I could also be seeing a difference in the landscape from the left and right side. You'll see in the picture below I have a lot more rock and big cave on the right side and mostly open water column on the left side.

I didn't catch that change, when did they come out with those?

I can imagine #7 clogging up. #5 might do better (5 holes/in)

 

[jason2459]

I didn't catch that change, when did they come out with those?

I can imagine #7 clogging up. #5 might do better (5 holes/in)

I assume you mean the foam? I think it's been out for a little over a month now. Around the same time I fitted the pump with the 7 mesh. The 7 mesh hasn't really become clogged up but reverse mode helps that out. I have a feeling the foam wont release the build up as easily as the plastic mesh will.

I might have to see if I can find that #5. You think it would still be good to protect an anemone from being shredded? Not worried about it being stuck to the pump but minimal damage is preferred.

Edit: btw you might be interested in this thread if you haven't seen it yet.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2533339

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Nice. Everyone likes the LDD drivers but if you talk to someone in the industry that understands drivers, these are made with the cheapest components available and while that might work fine with some LEDs, they aren't the best when it comes to overcurrent-sensitive LEDs like Deep Reds. Which is why I stay away from them. They probably work good for DIY builds where you are fine replacing a blown LED every once in a while but that's no good for me

 

[jason2459]

...

Virtual Outlet for feeding time reversal. vfee_A8 is on for several minutes and the defer extends the reversal mode a few more minutes longer
[ vRevGyre_A1 ] ( Cntl_A1 )
Program Type: Advanced
Display Icon: Left/Right Arrows
Logging: Enabled
Program:
Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Outlet vfeed_A8 = ON Then ON
Defer 003:00 Then OFF

PROFILES

[ SpdF_GyreL ] ( PF1 )
Type: Pump
Synchronize: Disable
Divide By 10: Disable
Initial Off Time: 1
On Time: 0
Off Time: 0
Minimum Intensity: 70
Maximum Intensity: 70

[ DirF_GyreL ] ( PF2 )
Type: Pump
Synchronize: Enable
Divide By 10: Disable
Initial Off Time: 1
On Time: 0
Off Time: 0
Minimum Intensity: 0
Maximum Intensity: 0

[ SpdF_GyreR ] ( PF3 )
Type: Pump
Synchronize: Disable
Divide By 10: Disable
Initial Off Time: 1
On Time: 0
Off Time: 0
Minimum Intensity: 80
Maximum Intensity: 80

[ DirF_GyreR ] ( PF4 )
Type: Pump
Synchronize: Enable
Divide By 10: Disable
Initial Off Time: 1
On Time: 0
Off Time: 0
Minimum Intensity: 0
Maximum Intensity: 0

[ SpdR_GyreLR ] ( PF5 )
Type: Pump
Synchronize: Disable
Divide By 10: Disable
Initial Off Time: 1
On Time: 0
Off Time: 0
Minimum Intensity: 100
Maximum Intensity: 100

[ DirR_GyreLR ] ( PF6 )
Type: Pump
Synchronize: Enable
Divide By 10: Disable
Initial Off Time: 1
On Time: 0
Off Time: 0
Minimum Intensity: 100
Maximum Intensity: 100



Variable Speed Outlets for my Left Gyre and Right Gyre

[ Spd_GyreL ] ( base_Var1 )
Program Type: Advanced
Display Icon: Fan
Logging: Enabled
Program:
Set SpdF_GyreL
If Outlet vRevGyre_A1 = ON Then SpdR_GyreLR


[ Dir_GyreL ] ( base_Var2 )
Program Type: Advanced
Display Icon: Left/Right Arrows
Logging: Enabled
Program:
Set DirF_GyreL
If Outlet vRevGyre_A1 = ON Then DirR_GyreLR


[ Spd_GyreR ] ( base_Var3 )
Program Type: Advanced
Display Icon: Fan
Logging: Enabled
Program:
Set SpdF_GyreR
If Outlet vRevGyre_A1 = ON Then SpdR_GyreLR


[ Dir_GyreR ] ( base_Var4 )
Program Type: Advanced
Display Icon: Left/Right Arrows
Logging: Enabled
Program:
Set DirF_GyreR
If Outlet vRevGyre_A1 = ON Then DirR_GyreLR

and of course my full programming can always be found at reeftronics.net under my username.

Worked perfectly. According to the graphs when vfeed_a8 kicked on both left and right gyres applied the DirR_GryreLR reverse profile. Then 6 minutes later flipped back to the regular forward direction.

vfeed_a8 is also a virtual outlet that triggers the timing of shutting down my return pump, shutdown skimmer, wait for the syphon to drain in the basement for about 1.5 minutes, and then kick on the apex auto feeder. Then later turn back on the return pump and another minute or so later turns on the skimmer. So now it also triggers the gyre reverse mode at 100%. :strooper:

 

[jason2459]

Took less then one day for the foam to clog up enough to drastically reduce the flow from late last night to now when I got home. 7 mesh flow hasn't changed since deploying it some odd weeks ago.

Quick snapshot

7 mesh staying pretty open.

Pretty acting the way in thought it would with the detritus not cleaning off the foam very well and not sticking as well to the plastic mesh.

And I did cut open the main forward flow area which did increase the flow a bit from being completely enclosed by the mesh.