Red Sea Max Owners Club

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Hey guys, sorry to change topics with my question but does anyone run a chiller pump and the Tunze skimmer in the back? Wanting to know if they fit well together because as it stands with the original skimmer, both won't fit in back. Thanks
 
Tangwich:

Here is a photo of what the back section looks like with the Tunze and my chiller pump. The chiller pump line is to the right of the Tunze collection cup.

Skimmer.jpg
 
Wow, that was quick, thanks GSM...so let me see if I have this right. The chiller pump is in between the sponge and the Skimmer? If that's the case, is it pulling water into the chiller before going into the skimmer? What is the hose on the left (looking at picture)? I take it that would be the return hose from the chiller, is that correct?
 
The setup is a little different now. I got rid of the foam sponge and made a media basket similar to the stevie t design. I added a JBJ ATO that sits right next to the skimmer cup on the right side, the sensor sits on the back wall behind the chiller pump line.

I guess some of the water is being pulled through the chiller pump before getting to the skimmer, but with such a tight area to work with this is all I could do.

Yes the hose to the left is indeed the return line.
 
All I can say is "GENIUS"...very nice work in such a cramped space RSM. I will soon be purchasing the Tunze Nano as well and wanted to see how that would work. YOu mentioned a media basket, what's that exactly and do you have a link to Stevie t design? thanks again
 
Tangwich:

The media basket is made of acrylic and basically holds different kinds of media like Chemi-Pure Elite, Carbon, Phosbane, ETC. Stevie T makes and sells the baskets but I was compelled to make my own. The basket basically forces the aquarium water to run through the "box" chamber so the media is fully exposed, making the media more efficient in keeping your tank clean.

I do not have a link to the stevie T design but I’m sure someone else here can chime in.
 
Oh, ok, that makes perfect sense. I finally got my chiller up and running last night so I'm ready to probably get rid of the stock skimmer until I get the Tunze and am going to do the simple sponge mod as well to get this show on the road. I already have 2 koralia 1's that I'm planning on using for extra flow, just haven't set them up in the tank as of yet. And now that the peppermint shrimp that I got from a local reefer has mowed down all the aptasia's that came on the rock that was in there, I'm ready to do some nice rockwork.
 
Hikari sells a jumbo version of frozen mysis that are about an inch long. Has anyone tried these? I'm thinking an inch long mysis might be a bit too big for most of my fish to eat.
 
I have an SPS(acropora) that I have had for about 2 months and its growth is really taking off. I am actually surprised at the amount of new growth that is taking shape on a weekly basis. Now to my question, I have never made frags from SPS and I could really use some pointers. Like, how big should each frag be? One inch, two inch? Not really sure about cutting the coral and I really dont want to hurt it. Its beautiful. Thanks
JASON
 
When cutting SPS I use bone cutters to make sure that if I was to break a piece off with my finger it doesn't break more or less than I wanted, it also make the cut a lot cleaner so it can heal better. Frags can be as big as you want, If I frag something then I usually cut it at a 1/2 inch or an inch and put it on a plug and once the bottom starts encrusting I feel comfortable to trade or sell, I wouldn't want to give someone a frag that hasn't already healed but some people out there do offer "fresh cut frags" Depending how big your acro is you might not want to frag 2 inches off...
 
jmmbones - Here's one of probably several internet sites with fragging Acropora. I just included a stainless steel bone cutter with an order for other tank related stuff. Might be good to get one.

Acropora Fragging

Good luck with it.
 
I've always fragged by corals by accidently dropping a live rock onto them :(


The cutters work well (A wire cutter works too). For more open corals you can just grab a branch and snap it off.
 
How often do you guys think I should change out my RSM bulbs. I've had my RSM up and running since January on 12 hour photo periods. I'm now noticing some dark red cyanobacteria. Some of it even looks like hair algae except red. I'm wondering if it might be a shift in the lighting spectrum. But, those bulbs are only six months old.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12918777#post12918777 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Brent F
I've always fragged my corals by accidently dropping a live rock onto them :(

I think I'd prefer the other method! :)

tyleratl - I think the general feeling is 9 months, but I'm not sure on that. The cyano coulod be due to other things - have your silicates, phosphates, nitrates gone up? Checked the TDS on the RO-DI lately?
 
Thanks to all that gave pointers on fragging corals....I will have some time this weekend and will let you all know how I make out. THanks again.
JASON
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12911048#post12911048 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tangwich
All I can say is "GENIUS"...very nice work in such a cramped space RSM. I will soon be purchasing the Tunze Nano as well and wanted to see how that would work. YOu mentioned a media basket, what's that exactly and do you have a link to Stevie t design? thanks again

Tanwich

You can pm me here or email me at steve.taggart@us.atlascopco.com for more info on my rack and skimmer cup mods.

I would post a link, but.....

thanks for the interest!
 
Hi Steve, it's me Jesse. Already ordered one this morning after another forum member was nice enough to send me the link to your thread. Word of mouth is a great thing, isn't it?
 
Nice, sorry, it is so hard to keep track with different user names!!! The word of mouth has been awesome on this rack and cup, stretched all the way to Europe, the intranets are awesome.

Slippin into your tank on wednesday!
 
Reefmack: It could be a high phosphate problem. I have added some phosphate remover, reduced the photo period to 11 hours, and am doing another 5 gallon water change. If it remains a problem, I'm guessing that I might need to go ahead and change the RSM bulbs.

Has anyone else on here had to change after only six months of use?
 
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