reef tank blues

VitalApparatus

New member
Last night while trying to fish a coral out from behind the rocks that my amazingly strong snails knocked over I cracked one of my actinic bulbs..at the same time I noticed my skimmer had gone nuts earlier (epoxy) and was foaming all over the place.My candy canes hate me,they never puff up.I moved them to the lagoon with low flow but they still just sit there all shriveled and sad.And what the heck is ORP??
My brain hurts....thanks for letting me rant.
 
Hang in there!!

This hobby has amazing LOWs at times and that is why so many people jump in for just a short while, and then just do not have the "wherewithall" to make it, and jump out.

Do not let it get to you, all of us that have been in this for long can feel your pain, and that is one of the good things about this club is that we all do have a "SaltWater wet shoulder" to cry on every now and again.

It will have its upside, sometimes soon when the rest of the world is getting you down, and you can sit with a cup of coffee and just enjoy what piece of the ocean you have, then it is worth it once again.

Hang in there!!
 
ORP - oxidation reduction potential. It is basically a way to monitor your water quality. The higher your ORP, the cleaner the water. Some people use it to inject Ozone into their tanks. They have an ORP controller which turns on an ozonizer when a certain low number is reached, and turns the ozonizer back off once a goal number is reached. It is very hard to explain.
 
John, you're a Chef. So let me put this in your terms: Take last nights (food) disaster and turn it into Today's "Special" Soup!

  • Patch the Skimmer.
  • Remove, then later Replace the T-5 bulb (Thank goodness it wasn't a MH!
  • Do a 25% water change NOW
  • Then recheck your water params later.
  • Tweak as needed.

We're right there with you pal. We've all been there.
 
Well all my params were on target 3 days ago and the other sps/lps are fine.I just dont know why the canes wont do better.
The skimmer isn't broken but just overflowing from epoxy changing the surface tension of the water..more of a mess than a real problem.
Gonna pick up a new bulb on lunch break today.
Thanks for the support folks, I shouldn't have been messing with the tank last night after work anyway,I was real tired.I love this hobby and wouldn't dream of giving up.
Great to have a group to turn to! :)
 
Sorry for the length of this response... if you've got insomnia, reading this post will certainly help:

Just like pH is a measure of the ratio of positive hydrogen ions to the number of negative hydroxy (OH) ions in your tank, ORP is a measure of the ratio of molecules that receive electrons (oxidize) versus the number of molecules that donate electrons (reduce). Why should we care about oxidizers and reducers? Well, in our bodies, oxidizers (some of which are called free radicals) are a bad thing... they damage cells and cause brain damage (just had to talk a little about the brain!). Therefore we take substances that act to reduce these oxidizers (Vitamin C and Vitamin E for example are anti-oxidants).

The best example of an oxidizer in your aquarium is O2 (oxygen), which is a weak oxidizer, and if you inject ozone (O3), that's a strong oxidizer. Deep in your sand bed where there's little to no oxygen, you'll find sulfate, which is a reducer. You want to have a reducing environment deep in your sand bed, because that's where anaerobic (oxygen hating) bacteria grow... it is these bacteria that convert nitrates into nitrogen gas (the little bubbles you see in your sand bed). That's a major method of exporting nitrogenous waste out of your tank: the nitrogen bubbles that rise to the surface and get released into the atmosphere.

Now organic waste (ammonium, nitrates/nitrites, protein waste) in your water are all reducers. You can see why you'd want to keep these reducers to a minimum. Ammonium ions are toxic to animal life, and while nitrates and nitrites are fairly harmless to animals, they are good fertilizer for nuisance algae.

When we place an ORP electrode into the water to measure water quality, the battle between the number of oxidizers and the number of reducers in the water takes place at the metal surface of the ORP electrode, and this exchange of positive and negative charges creates a voltage (the ORP or oxidation reduction potential). The higher the voltage, the more oxidizers, and the greater the water quality (less waste products). Ocean water has an ORP of about 400 mV (millivolts); aquarists that monitor ORP strive to keep ORP at about 375 - 450 mV. If you have really good aquarium technique, your ORP is probably already sufficiently high. Among the things that contribute to good technique include 1. good protein skimming to remove waste, 2. lots of live rock and perhaps a deep sand bed to provide substrate for anaerobic bacteria to eliminate nitrates, 3. perhaps growing macroalgae in a refugium to absorb nitrates, 4. a phosban reactor to absorb phosphates -another waste product and an algal fertilizer- 5. not an extreme number of livestock for the volume of water 6. no overfeeding, 7. sufficient crabs and snails to graze down nuisance algae. Not everybody does all of these - for example, you can be successful with a bare bottom tank, but there's no denying that all of these things help raise water quality.

It has been suggested that ozone helps break down organic waste and facilitates waste removal by protein skimmers. Several years back I noticed my water was a bit yellowish (I could see the color in the white bucket that I use for water changes). At that time I found that my nitrates were at about 30, so I got a better protein skimmer, I started growing chaetomorpha in a refugium, and I started injecting ozone. Now my nitrates are undetectable and my water is colorless, and nuisance algal growth is no longer a problem.

We use an ozone controller to measure and set the level of ORP that is desirable, so that the ozone generator doesn't go unchecked and inject too much ozone into the tank. Very high levels of ozone can actually harm marine life.

A warning, if you decide to inject ozone, you've got to make sure that before the ozone gas escapes into the air in your house, you pass it across a carbon filter... breathing high levels of ozone is not healthy (remember we don't want free radicals in our brain!!! - everything comes down to neuroscience!).

My apologies for the length of the above manuscript! Must have lapsed into professor mode. Hope it helps.
Jay
 
Wow Jay that was extremely helpful.Im skimming and raising chaeto and have live rock so other than using ozone in the water I guess Im on my way.
 
Wow. I feel smarter already............. for being in Aviation!!!!

Jay, Congratulations!!!!

WTMRAC, we fould our Keynote Speaker for the next meeting! Introducing, "Dr. Voo-Doo!"
 
Hey, my candy canes(among other corals) just do that sometimes. Very often, the next day or even later the same day, they'll look good again. I can't explain why.
 
yea, I have a bubble coral that does that as well. some days i think it is dying and others it looks great. go fugure.
 
Well, its a good thing Jay didn't start talking about valence electrons or the phospholipid bilayer!
And Chef, just be glad you didn't do something like I did where I started a breakdown at midnight (thinking it would be a quick job...ha, ha) and ended the following evening. You know, if you stay awake long enough you start dreaming on your feet.
 
Great explaination of ORP Jay. I had a flashback of Thermodynamics class and was prepared for a pop quiz after reading that post. Ozone is best left in the statosphere. It's bad enough during the summer months when stagnation traps it at the surface. No need to purposely pump it into your house. There are better ways to control water quality.
 
I think ozone is a useful addition to a system, especially if you've got a large bioload or algal problems. But it has to be carefully monitored and regulated, and then precautions must be taken so that your exposure is minimal.

And what do you know, now that I've taken down my frag tank for good I have a Milwaukee ORP/pH controller for sale (includes ORP and pH electrodes), as well as an ozone generator and air pump.
 
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