ReefWaters' 220 Sun Room Reef
- Thread starter ReefWaters
- Start date
Rocketboy52
New member
Reefwaters,
I loved all the pictures of your build and am excited to continue to see it develop in the future.
I'm looking to set up a 90gallon tank, and want to modify a tank I just bought to use both Eurobraces, and external overflow. I love the way your tank looks and was wondering if I could get you to post a close up picture or two of your External overflow. I want to try and emulate it, I know I'll need to scale it some to get it to work for me. Also, what are the dimensions of the erurobrace strip of glass on the long side of your tanks? It looks like the front to back measurement is similar on the 5' and 4'.
Thanks!
I loved all the pictures of your build and am excited to continue to see it develop in the future.
I'm looking to set up a 90gallon tank, and want to modify a tank I just bought to use both Eurobraces, and external overflow. I love the way your tank looks and was wondering if I could get you to post a close up picture or two of your External overflow. I want to try and emulate it, I know I'll need to scale it some to get it to work for me. Also, what are the dimensions of the erurobrace strip of glass on the long side of your tanks? It looks like the front to back measurement is similar on the 5' and 4'.
Thanks!
ReefWaters
Premium Member
Rocketboy52...
Do you plan on cutting the slot for the overflow yourself? If so, this is a great thread to check out: 50 gallon breeder external overflow
The eurobracing is the same width all the way around the tank. The glass strip is 4" wide. It is attached to the inside of the glass walls; not the top. The total width of the bracing from the outside of the tank to the inside edge of the eurobracing is 4-9/16". You can definitely scale down the eurobracing for a 90.
Here are some pics of the overflow. You should be able to get the jist of it from these. Its pretty low tech. Let me know if you have any questions.
And here is a picture of the overflow from the inside of the tank with the water running. It may be hard to tell.
melev.....
I have officially given up on the wireless gaming adapter. The connection is flawless when I connect a cat-5 Ethernet cable "through the door." So I will be biting the bullet and spending a couple of hours one of these days running a cat-5 through the wall.
Does anyone want to buy a Linksys Gaming Adapter at a GREAT price????
:lol:
Do you plan on cutting the slot for the overflow yourself? If so, this is a great thread to check out: 50 gallon breeder external overflow
The eurobracing is the same width all the way around the tank. The glass strip is 4" wide. It is attached to the inside of the glass walls; not the top. The total width of the bracing from the outside of the tank to the inside edge of the eurobracing is 4-9/16". You can definitely scale down the eurobracing for a 90.
Here are some pics of the overflow. You should be able to get the jist of it from these. Its pretty low tech. Let me know if you have any questions.
And here is a picture of the overflow from the inside of the tank with the water running. It may be hard to tell.
melev.....
I have officially given up on the wireless gaming adapter. The connection is flawless when I connect a cat-5 Ethernet cable "through the door." So I will be biting the bullet and spending a couple of hours one of these days running a cat-5 through the wall.
Does anyone want to buy a Linksys Gaming Adapter at a GREAT price????
:lol:
BigTuna321
New member
nice tank
ReefWaters
Premium Member
Things are definitely starting to grow and color back up. I hooked the Kalk Reactor up a few days ago and the PH is steadily rising. I am waiting for some new media for the Calcium Reactor before I crank it back up.
I am having a MAJOR problem with one of my IceCap 660's. I have blown it 2, possibly 3, times now. There is obviously a short somewhere in my wiring/end caps, and it keeps shorting out the ballast. I got it back the other day from its second trip to IceCap for repair, and triple checked all the loops for continuity as they suggested. Everything checked out and then I came home the next day to find the lights out and a bad electrical burning smell in the fish room. Exactly what had happened twice before. I have not had a chance to run the continuity test again but I doubt that the ballast will crank up again after I figure out the root of the problem. I am getting really frustrated with this but I don't believe it has anything to do with IceCap. I think it is all on my end. And IceCap has been GREAT about fixing the ballast each time.
Here are some not so great pictures of the tank. I have a LOT to learn about photography. These came out a lot more "blue" than it looks in reality. It looks much more "white" to my eye. I also cant seem to get it to focus the way I want it to. But oh well. Enjoy.
I am having a MAJOR problem with one of my IceCap 660's. I have blown it 2, possibly 3, times now. There is obviously a short somewhere in my wiring/end caps, and it keeps shorting out the ballast. I got it back the other day from its second trip to IceCap for repair, and triple checked all the loops for continuity as they suggested. Everything checked out and then I came home the next day to find the lights out and a bad electrical burning smell in the fish room. Exactly what had happened twice before. I have not had a chance to run the continuity test again but I doubt that the ballast will crank up again after I figure out the root of the problem. I am getting really frustrated with this but I don't believe it has anything to do with IceCap. I think it is all on my end. And IceCap has been GREAT about fixing the ballast each time.
Here are some not so great pictures of the tank. I have a LOT to learn about photography. These came out a lot more "blue" than it looks in reality. It looks much more "white" to my eye. I also cant seem to get it to focus the way I want it to. But oh well. Enjoy.
ReefWaters
Premium Member
Jonathan, if you could explain the differences in the settings associated with the GA versus directly connecting the Ethernet, I would greatly appreciate it. I would love to get it to work for me but I just cant seem to figure it out.
jnarowe
New member
Dude...I can't help you. That stuff is like roulette to me. I just get lucky sometimes. 
The suggestion is to use a bridge but I couldn't find one locally. I ordered one online, but decided to try out the GA since I had one for the X-Box. It worked immediately, nothing to set. When the bridge arrived, I ended up having to call Curt with my tail between my legs.
One major thing to check is the default ip setting on the controller. It may be outside the range your router is set for. I think this is probably one of the more common problems.
Keep in mind on the ballast issue, that you might be feeding it too much power...maybe spiking? That happens around where I live a LOT and it can wreck equipment. Even with everything on UPS it can still happen. I have lost refrigeration equipment at my store due to power surges as well. KAAAA-CHING.
The other thing to note is that it takes some careful reading to get the wires right, based on length and number of lamps. I would guess you have already gone over this with IceCap, but the schematic can be vexing.
The suggestion is to use a bridge but I couldn't find one locally. I ordered one online, but decided to try out the GA since I had one for the X-Box. It worked immediately, nothing to set. When the bridge arrived, I ended up having to call Curt with my tail between my legs.One major thing to check is the default ip setting on the controller. It may be outside the range your router is set for. I think this is probably one of the more common problems.
Keep in mind on the ballast issue, that you might be feeding it too much power...maybe spiking? That happens around where I live a LOT and it can wreck equipment. Even with everything on UPS it can still happen. I have lost refrigeration equipment at my store due to power surges as well. KAAAA-CHING.
The other thing to note is that it takes some careful reading to get the wires right, based on length and number of lamps. I would guess you have already gone over this with IceCap, but the schematic can be vexing.
melev
Well-known member
Is one ballast lighting all the bulbs? Or is it a particular ballast and set of bulbs while the other one is perfectly good?
Because of your talk of the gaming adapter issue, that is exactly why I chose to just run Cat5. And FYI, at Home Depot they sell a 50' white cable with ends for $21. Seems like a no brainer. I spent $18 in parts because I already had the wire, but could have simply used the nicer finished one for a few more dollars.
Taking pictures in blue light is tough. Your camera will have issues focusing on anything unless it really is sharp and stands out. If you can set the white balance (custom setting), that will help. Otherwise you need to use a program like Photoshop to adjust the blue levels to correct it, in post processing.
Because of your talk of the gaming adapter issue, that is exactly why I chose to just run Cat5. And FYI, at Home Depot they sell a 50' white cable with ends for $21. Seems like a no brainer. I spent $18 in parts because I already had the wire, but could have simply used the nicer finished one for a few more dollars.
Taking pictures in blue light is tough. Your camera will have issues focusing on anything unless it really is sharp and stands out. If you can set the white balance (custom setting), that will help. Otherwise you need to use a program like Photoshop to adjust the blue levels to correct it, in post processing.
ReefWaters
Premium Member
melev...so you don't want to buy my gaming adapter??? :lol:
I am running 6 bulbs on 2 ballasts. 3 bulbs on each ballast. I am having problems with the same set of bulbs and the same ballast as before. What is so weird to me is that the continuity test will check out, and the bulbs will run for a day or two without problems. In fact, they ran for a solid month before the first ballast fry. Then I will come home to find the bulbs out and the ballast shot.
I am running 6 bulbs on 2 ballasts. 3 bulbs on each ballast. I am having problems with the same set of bulbs and the same ballast as before. What is so weird to me is that the continuity test will check out, and the bulbs will run for a day or two without problems. In fact, they ran for a solid month before the first ballast fry. Then I will come home to find the bulbs out and the ballast shot.
ReefWaters
Premium Member
Something is definitely shorting. What I don't understand is how it shorts "out of the blue" like it does. I'm going to replace the connections at the wire extensions. And assuming that gives me continuity, I'm going to run the ballast with some standard HO bulbs (straight from my garage) and see if it could possibly be the bulb(s).
ReefWaters
Premium Member
Well melev.... its always something simple isnt it?!
WHITE BALANCE Who'd of thunk it?
WHITE BALANCE Who'd of thunk it?
jnarowe
New member
shorting like that can be due to corosion or loose connections. This is a never-ending battle with aquariums. Vibration, the salt assault, and in my case, Yukon Jack, can all lead to blown bulbs and smoking ballasts.
Why, just tonight I forgot I was doing a water change. Did a 180 with glass in hand, and thought to myself, hey, the water shouldn't be that high!
Why, just tonight I forgot I was doing a water change. Did a 180 with glass in hand, and thought to myself, hey, the water shouldn't be that high!
melev
Well-known member
Perhaps what is happening with that one ballast that keeps burning up is a surge like Jonathan suggested. Check to see what else is plugged into that exact circuit. It could be shared with a major appliance you only use every couple of days, which is why it doesn't happen every time you'd expect it to. It could be when the heaters are on at the same time, perhaps. Something that pulls a lot of juice, but isn't on all the time... but when it does come on, it could cause the damage you've described.
My son needs a wireless gaming adapter for his Xbox 360. If you're semi serious, let me know via PM what you'd like for it and I'll let him know.
Those pictures already look better. I'm going to grab one and play with it in Photoshop 7.
My son needs a wireless gaming adapter for his Xbox 360. If you're semi serious, let me know via PM what you'd like for it and I'll let him know.
Those pictures already look better. I'm going to grab one and play with it in Photoshop 7.
jnarowe
New member
BTW, I really should have mentioned, THAT TANK LOOKS SWEET! :thumbsup:
Any splash marks on the reflector? Those are waterproof end caps so I would doubt the problem lies with the lamp connection itself. The wire entry is on the top, and the leads are LONG. So water intrusion on that end seems unlikely.
And the ballasts are on top of the rack right?
Any splash marks on the reflector? Those are waterproof end caps so I would doubt the problem lies with the lamp connection itself. The wire entry is on the top, and the leads are LONG. So water intrusion on that end seems unlikely.
And the ballasts are on top of the rack right?
Rocketboy52
New member
Thanks Reef waters! I have also subscribed to the 50 gallon overflow thread. I'm going to cut and grind the glass myself. From the looks of your close up photos, the weir teeth looks like it is an "insert" plate that is placed or fixed to the the "notch" cut on the back pane of your tank. Is that right, or is the screening teeth pane part of the over flow and simply bonded to the back pane where a notch has been cut out?
I hope you are able to get your ballast issue solved.
Melev, photos with the white balance and color tweaking makes a big difference.
I think I'll start a thread showing my project, as I have enjoyed reading everyone elses! You tank is HUGE and I'm also envious of your fish room setup!
I hope you are able to get your ballast issue solved.
Melev, photos with the white balance and color tweaking makes a big difference.
I think I'll start a thread showing my project, as I have enjoyed reading everyone elses! You tank is HUGE and I'm also envious of your fish room setup!
Rocketboy52
New member
Reefwaters, one more question for you, how much flow per hour do you have going to your sump, and how much internal flow do you have for display circulation with your two Tunze powerheads?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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