ritteri anemone

tex77083

New member
Hello
I am asking a question about the Retteri. I had one of these but it was years ago and I have slacked a bit on the maintenance that I once did. I was curious how often and how big of a watter change ya'll do? Also where do you keep your levels what do you dose and how often. I kept my last one for over a year and lost it in a move(that was a bad day) I went to a few local stores and put in that I was looking for one after that (two years ago) and gave up on it. Then out of the blue today I got a call that one was in for a GREAT price. And the guy at the shop told me he would hold it till my tank was ready. Well thanks for your time any advice will help. THANKS
 
Ritteri, Heteractis magnifica, needs very good water quality. Generally H. magnifica and S. gigantea are considered the most difficult of the hosting anemone species to successfully keep. As far as water changes, 10 to 15% of the tank volume every two weeks should be fine. High intensity lighting such as MH or top brand T-5s (with individual reflectors). I have mags and believe undetectable nitrates are essential for the species to thrive. They will live with nitrates, but definitely not be at their best. You need full strength seawater, i.e., specific gravity of 1.026-1.027. Also, they appreciate good water flow, preferably random rather than just a straight current blowing on them. For water changes reverse osmosis is advisable unless you know that your water is nitrate free. They prefer temps in the 80-82F range. I would say using a good salt mix such as Instant Ocean, Reef Crystals, or Tropic Marin should be fine. I've used all three with no issue. Calcium levels aren't of particular importance with anemones in general. You will need to have a good protein skimmer, IMO, and run activated carbon and or purigen or run chemipure. They do sting, so other corals and even small fish aren't advisable to keep with a ritteri.
 
Thank you so much... So much I will get my gravity to pick up a bit i have been running it at 1.024 latley. And i think that I'm right but not sure by saying that I should, " run activated carbon and or purigen or run chemipure" Is this the substrait that you put in the bags and set in the sump? Thanks

P.s. Sorry for the nube questions just been waiting for this for a while and don't want to screw it up
 
Yeah, 1.024 is a little too low for long-term success. Generally activated carbon or resins (or both) are filter media that work best when placed in a power filter so water can flow directly through them. I don't know how much good having those passively sitting in the sump actually do. From what I've read, activated carbon absorbs some organics, purigen, etc. absorbs other organics.

What else will be in the tank (corals, fish, other invertebrates)?
 
Fish
two perc. clowns ( ritteri is for them ), a yelow tang, coral beauty, blue damnsel

Shrimp
one cleaner, one peppermint

Coral
Green leather, small tourch head, open brain, and a kynea tree??

I also have a small carpet anemone

That is about it though I am more worried about my watter!! When you da a watter change do you get in to your sand much? Do you move your rocks or do you just pull watter off the top?

Thanks for all your help garygb! Your a good guy to know!! I take it you may have a few of theses.
 
Yeah, 1.024 is a little too low for long-term success. Generally activated carbon or resins (or both) are filter media that work best when placed in a power filter so water can flow directly through them. I don't know how much good having those passively sitting in the sump actually do. From what I've read, activated carbon absorbs some organics, purigen, etc. absorbs other organics.

What else will be in the tank (corals, fish, other invertebrates)?

Can you site your sources on the Specific gravity needing to be 1.026-1.027 or is this just how youve gotten the best result with person experience..?
 
Tex, I have three currently, I sold one a couple of months ago because I wanted to do something different with the tank. As far as mixing cnidaria, it can be risky, things sting one another and there is the possibility of chemical warfare (releasing toxins) between different species. I would be a little concerned about a carpet and a ritteri in the same tank. I'm assuming it's a sand-dwelling carpet, so that makes it a little less of a concern--since mags like to be on top of a rock. Do run activated carbon/resin constantly and change it every couple of weeks--I would run it in a filter rather than passively sitting in the sump to maximize efficiency. The percs will love the mag.

Dean, Joyce Wilkerson's survey from years back and Ron Shimek are two immediate references I can give. Full strength natural seawater is at a salinity of 35ppt, which translates very close to a specific gravity of 1.027. In some regions, like the Red Sea, where mags proliferate, the sg is higher, averaging at least 1.028. No doubt, host anemones are also sometimes found in water where the sg is temporarily lower due to heavy rains, runoff, etc. But, shooting for an average of 35ppt is important in my opionion. On the topic of specific gravity, I do think it's important to use either a refractometer that's calibrated with pinpoint solution (not distilled water like the instructions might say) or a good quality (expensive) hydrometer hydrometer such as Tropic Marin makes. Those little floating ones or the swing arm plastic type are often inaccurate.
 
I kept a Heteractus in my 40 gallon for over two years and it thrived. The key for me was having a 175 metal halide bulb over the tank along with good water motion. I had one of those wave2K things in there and it really rocked. Now I would probably go with a Vortec and be done with it.

I found out through trial and error that it liked Mysis the best. I tried silver slides, shrimp ect but Mysis seemed the best. I finally sold the thing it was getting too big for the tank.

I have a saying, if you put an Anemone in a tank, the tank now belongs to the Anemone not you. Most Anemone's just get too big and start stinging other things. The most mellow I've found are bulb Anemones but they can sting also.

Jason
 
What kind of "small carpet anemone" do you have? If it's tapetum, I wouldn't worry to much about it. If it's haddoni or gigantea, you may have issues.

Just from my personal experience, I would add the magnifica first. After the mag has had a few months to heal from shipping stress and acclimate to the tank, I would add the clowns.

I also agree with Gary on the salinity. At higher salinty, you will have higher concentrations of trace elements. This will help to offset the effects of carbon, other filter equipment, and other critters that are constantly stripping the water of trace elements.
 
got put in a bit of a pinch and had to pick it up tonight. the shop call and didnt have a space with a sg higher than 1.022 and the tank to be put in had no3 higher than what i was concerned about in my tank..... also i have no place to take my clowns so they will be in the tank together right off the back. I think that i am going to put them in my sump till tomorrow so that it can at least have a day to recover.
 
elegance coral.... ya'll are proving how much more ya'll know than me. I got the "carpet" second hand from a guy getting out of the hobby. Now im not sure that is what it is because it is on a rock not in the sand but it has been on the same rock for over two years and never moves no matter where I put it so if i keep them apart will I have any problems?

I just used google and nither of the three looked like it I'll see if I can take a pic.
 

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the anemone is in the tank now and dose not look to good in my opinion but I will let yall tell me your opinion. i set a divider with left over egg crate to keep the clowns out. I hope it looks better tomorrow:confused:

There is also a pic so would someone let me know if this look is normal from a stressed out anemone..... Thanks
 

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I'm no expert, but I think your "carpet" isn't a carpet. Most likely some kind of rock/flower anemone. How big is it?

Also, your new anemone looks really bad. Is that white part its mouth? If it's the base/ foot you may be hosed. Sorry to say.
 
yeah, that isn't a carpet but a flower (Epicystis crucifer). They are generally stationary, so it shouldn't pose any real problems for you. If the dealers tank parameters are further from ideal than yours, you did the right thing getting it away from there.

The mag has good coloration, but it's mouth doesn't look good. Sometimes happens initially during acclimation process. Just provide it with excellent water conditions and maybe all will be fine.
 
In my experience, mags that are that dark/have that many zooxanthellae, are very sensitive to bright lights. What lighting do you have? If you have good lights, I would very slowly acclimate the anemone to them.
 
bradlyem- the white part is the mouth, and the rock/flower/carpet is only about 4-5 inches. I only called it a carpet because that is what the guy that sold it to me called it.

garygb- thanks for backing up my good judgment. I was a bit concerned about the whole thing.

elegance coral- I have a wave point light 4 T5ho with the individual reflectors there is no adjustment on them so should I jus put some egg crate over that half of the tank to cut down the light and then take it off peace by piece to full light that is about all I can think to do?!

OrionN and all- This morning the mouth is almost all the way closed and it has started to make its way up the rock wall. All good signs I will continue to do 5 gal water changes till the water is right and have some power heads laying around so I will make some sort of forced activated carbon filter this weekend

Thank you all for the help
 
Glad to hear it's settling in. Powerhead intakes can be disastrous for a wandering anemone, plastic window screen or a sponge filter can be used temporarily until the anemone has found a spot it likes and is staying put.
 
At home for lunch here are some pics tell me what ya think. Hwo long should it take to fully open? Or how long should I keep the clowns out?
 

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