Rittori and Haddoni under T5??

[Flameangel]

Very interesting discussion. My purple base rittori has been on the left side of my 300 gallon. It was on a tall perch directly under the 250 radium with a tunze streaming blowing towards it (the perfect condition). It was very happy. So I may go with one 250 since I have the fixture and the bulb and then fill the rest of the tank with t5. I really want this anemone to be the centerpiece of my new tank.

Connie

 

[Slakker]

That sounds like a great plan.

 

[delphinus]

FWIW, I think T5's are probably a great option for most anemone species, just not H. magnifica since it's just so point-source light hungry. It's not really the intensity that's the issue, it's the spread. It wants the "spotlight", so to speak.

 

[illcssd]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9896266#post9896266 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 55semireef
Very interesting. For the record, your T5s did have individual reflectors right? I am thinking about setting up a 30 gallon tank for my H. Crispa only with a MH over it. I wonder if a 150 watter would be sufficient?

Yes they did, it was the 8 bulb tek light fixture w/individual reflectors.
I did a 175w se halide over my 29 and kept every kind of host anemone in it except gigantea, so i would assume your crispa will be okay, i had one in my 24g that outgrew it extremely quickly under a 70w de halide, you will be fine if the 150 is a de bulb.

 

[illcssd]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9897103#post9897103 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Flameangel
Very interesting discussion. My purple base rittori has been on the left side of my 300 gallon. It was on a tall perch directly under the 250 radium with a tunze streaming blowing towards it (the perfect condition). It was very happy. So I may go with one 250 since I have the fixture and the bulb and then fill the rest of the tank with t5. I really want this anemone to be the centerpiece of my new tank.

Connie

Lol connie, i just realized where you were located and that i had just offered to buy your magnifica on our local board lol.
The 250 over where you want the mag will be perfect and i'm sure it will stay perfectly happy there.

 

[55semireef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9899470#post9899470 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by illcssd
Yes they did, it was the 8 bulb tek light fixture w/individual reflectors.
I did a 175w se halide over my 29 and kept every kind of host anemone in it except gigantea, so i would assume your crispa will be okay, i had one in my 24g that outgrew it extremely quickly under a 70w de halide, you will be fine if the 150 is a de bulb.

Yes, the bulb is a de and its Hamilton.

 

[55semireef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9897950#post9897950 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by delphinus
FWIW, I think T5's are probably a great option for most anemone species, just not H. magnifica since it's just so point-source light hungry. It's not really the intensity that's the issue, it's the spread. It wants the "spotlight", so to speak.

\

What do you mean they like the point source lighting? I have never heard of that type of requirement before.

 

[illcssd]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9901473#post9901473 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 55semireef
\

What do you mean they like the point source lighting? I have never heard of that type of requirement before.

Once you have actually kept an h. mag, you will understand. They will sit directly under the beam of light where it is most intense, climbing the walls, rocks, or anything they can to get closer to the light. T-5's don't give that direct beam of light. it is more spread out and indirect. My mag sits directly under the 250 with a lumenarc reflector, trust me, the light is bright. t-5's just aren't the right light for magnifica anemones.

 

[GSMguy]

what abbout lighting a tank with t5s and using one 65k japanese spotlight for a mag that would probobly be a great way to get it to stay put.

 

[delphinus]

Best explanation I can give is an analogy from a tank I used to have my H.mag in. I had a centre brace so I aimed the two halide reflectors ever so slightly inwards so that the centre of the tank wouldn't have a shadow. Worked pretty good actually. But anyhow, I was using Ushio lights (which are a pulse-start lamp) on probe-start ballasts. Eventually they would work but the break-in period right after buying them would last about 2 weeks, where they sometimes wouldn't start right away (as long as half an hour after the timer switched them on). In that 2 week period of time, if the light that was over my H. mag would be the one to not turn on right away, if the other light DID turn on and this would last, say, 15 minutes or so .. the anemone would wander over to the side that the light was on. In 15 minutes! "Oh, the sun is over there now. Ok, I'll just move closer to it then!" .. This happened to me a couple times. Luckily the solution was simple: to get the anemone to wander back to where I wanted him to sit, I'd leave the other side off for a day. "Oh, the sun's moved AGAIN. Silly sun!". The drive to get as close as possible to that light is really strong.

That's why I think halides are better for this species.

 

[illcssd]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9901712#post9901712 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GSMguy
what abbout lighting a tank with t5s and using one 65k japanese spotlight for a mag that would probobly be a great way to get it to stay put.

Is that a halide bulb? If yes that would work, i don't really know about the japanese things lol. But if it is i'm sure that would work.

 

[illcssd]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9901742#post9901742 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by delphinus
Best explanation I can give is an analogy from a tank I used to have my H.mag in. I had a centre brace so I aimed the two halide reflectors ever so slightly inwards so that the centre of the tank wouldn't have a shadow. Worked pretty good actually. But anyhow, I was using Ushio lights (which are a pulse-start lamp) on probe-start ballasts. Eventually they would work but the break-in period right after buying them would last about 2 weeks, where they sometimes wouldn't start right away (as long as half an hour after the timer switched them on). In that 2 week period of time, if the light that was over my H. mag would be the one to not turn on right away, if the other light DID turn on and this would last, say, 15 minutes or so .. the anemone would wander over to the side that the light was on. In 15 minutes! "Oh, the sun is over there now. Ok, I'll just move closer to it then!" .. This happened to me a couple times. Luckily the solution was simple: to get the anemone to wander back to where I wanted him to sit, I'd leave the other side off for a day. "Oh, the sun's moved AGAIN. Silly sun!". The drive to get as close as possible to that light is really strong.

That's why I think halides are better for this species.

perfect example. My point exactly

 

[GSMguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9901863#post9901863 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by illcssd
Is that a halide bulb? If yes that would work, i don't really know about the japanese things lol. But if it is i'm sure that would work.

yea it is a 150w 65k halide spotlight bulb it is mogul socket but like a normall flood spotlight it has the reflector built in.
the japanese use them with 20k bulbs to spot corals with extra light. and use t5s to light the rest of the tank.

the 6500k bulb looks like it was made for anemones

 

[illcssd]

I would do a 10k bulb just because of how ugly 6500k is. But that would work.

 

[55semireef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9901742#post9901742 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by delphinus
Best explanation I can give is an analogy from a tank I used to have my H.mag in. I had a centre brace so I aimed the two halide reflectors ever so slightly inwards so that the centre of the tank wouldn't have a shadow. Worked pretty good actually. But anyhow, I was using Ushio lights (which are a pulse-start lamp) on probe-start ballasts. Eventually they would work but the break-in period right after buying them would last about 2 weeks, where they sometimes wouldn't start right away (as long as half an hour after the timer switched them on). In that 2 week period of time, if the light that was over my H. mag would be the one to not turn on right away, if the other light DID turn on and this would last, say, 15 minutes or so .. the anemone would wander over to the side that the light was on. In 15 minutes! "Oh, the sun is over there now. Ok, I'll just move closer to it then!" .. This happened to me a couple times. Luckily the solution was simple: to get the anemone to wander back to where I wanted him to sit, I'd leave the other side off for a day. "Oh, the sun's moved AGAIN. Silly sun!". The drive to get as close as possible to that light is really strong.

That's why I think halides are better for this species.

Ahh, makes sense to me now. Thanks for the note. I hope one day, I will be able to successfully keep a H. Mag. Their beauty is incredible and is a desirable home for any clownfish who likes to play hide and seek.

delphinus, you got a pm

 

[ATX aquarist]

do you have a link to a site with one of these Japanese MH???

 

[OrionN]

My experience indicated that H. magnifica requires extremely high light intensity to be happy. My H. magnifica was right under a 400 W MH about under 6 inches of water and the light is about 8 inches off the water. I don't know of any light that can produce that amount of light short of MH. I have never use T5 but I doubt that it will produce anywhere near the amount of light needed for a H. magnifica.

 

[GSMguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9904792#post9904792 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ATX aquarist
do you have a link to a site with one of these Japanese MH???

iinvincible is using them on his 300g rimless there are a few good pics of them in there as well as links to the fixtrures.

 

[55semireef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9906185#post9906185 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by OrionN
My experience indicated that H. magnifica requires extremely high light intensity to be happy. My H. magnifica was right under a 400 W MH about under 6 inches of water and the light is about 8 inches off the water. I don't know of any light that can produce that amount of light short of MH. I have never use T5 but I doubt that it will produce anywhere near the amount of light needed for a H. magnifica.

The reason they typically provide more intensity at the sandbed is they start out much more intense. A 4x54 watt Ice Cap T5 setup will put more light to the sand than most 250 watt halides.

In general, the only reason halides penetrate deeper is because you can just get 400 (or 1000!)watts into a smaller area...where it takes a T5 setup a full 1.5'x4' area to do that much. Other than that though the T5s should penetrate deeper from a PAR/penetration/watt standpoint. In other words, both T5s (with parabolic reflectors) put out roughly just as much light as MH. It all depends on what ballast, reflectors and brand you use. Some MH are brighter while some T5s are brighter.

 

[OrionN]

55semireef,
While I am not at all sure what you wrote is right because I see no actual light level measurement study. Really this is beside the point. There is just no way the intensity of any light method come close to the intensity/watt of MH near the bulb. That is what we mean by Point source. MH put out all of it's light energy essentially at one point while any florescence methods(NO, T5, VHO ect..) do not.
While it may be that at 4 feet from the light T5 may have the same intensity/watt as MH. T5 just not have anywhere near the intensity at 8 or 12 inches from the light.