WinterSun01
In Memoriam
I've got a Airwaterice 5 Stage (not including the DI) that I need to replace the filters on. I already know the RO membrane I need, but what is the best resin/filter to run in the other 4, and in what order? Thanks
Yeah if you get a refillable DI cartridge you could run that after your sediment/carbon filters.
Wow, thanks everyone haha! My next question is, can I run a DI filter in one of the 4 stages before the RO membrane?
I highly suggest against this. The purpose of the membrane it to be the "workhorse" to bring down the TDS. The DI resin is to just polish off the good water coming out of the membrane. If the DI resin is place before the membrane you'll burn through A LOT of resin unnecessarily.
the workhorse is the most expensive component.. you want to protect it...
that is the purpose of the 'pre filters'.
the finer the prefilter the more often / quicker it will clog...
you can use a 10 micron filter in stage one, then a 5 micron in stage two...(and three if you ahve)...
then the RO membrane...
if you have a carbon filter after that, you can change it.. or not. or take it out.. it dont matter.. that is for drinking water use... or jsut a mild polish for your tank top off water.. but really not necessary
the Resin is also expensive, and you want to protect it too..
you can run tap water thru Resin and it will work great.. probably bring the TDS down to ZERO, but it will be exhausted after the first use... so, to make it last longer, you want to use the least amount of TDS water thru it as possible..
which is why the TDS should be last in teh series and the last filter before the tank...
If you have a pressure cannister, you should put the resin AFTER the cannister.. or again, the last thing the water sees before your fish tank...
you really dont want to store dionized water in a metal tank as it is slightly corrosive...
also, stored water will get contaminated so some of what you removed with your filter may come back in the cannister.
the other bad thing about cannisters is that it pushes the water faster thru the DI Resin, and sometimes it/the water, may not have enuf 'dwell time' / contact time with teh resin for it to work properly
Call Russ up at BRS, he will be glad to walk u thru it...
gl
you can use a 10 micron filter in stage one, then a 5 micron in stage two...(and three if you ahve)...
If you have a pressurized storage container, do not deliver that water to the DI stageIf you have a pressure cannister, you should put the resin AFTER the cannister.. or again, the last thing the water sees before your fish tank...
This Russ is at BFS!:rollface:Call Russ up at BRS, he will be glad to walk u thru it
No worries!oh crap.. sorry, BFS
you should not feed teh resin from the pressure cannister due to the dwell time...
Rightyou still shouldnt 'store' dionized water in metal cannister?
rightand or expect stored ZERO TDS water to come out of 'storage' with zero TDS?
We use them on our Reef/Residential systems where the RO water goes to a pressure tank and then on to a drinking water faucet, AND RO water from the pressure tnak NEVER goes to the DI stage.are you suggesting that a pressure cannister shouldnt be using on a REEF system where the output is expected to be ZERO TDS?
"Prefilter" means all the filters that come before the membrane, in order of water flow.also, the 'pre filters' are the 'sediment filters' arent they
This one is a hoot! About the only place you'll ever see this: Prefilters->RO->DI->taste and odor (GAC) filter is on misconfigured systems common on a famous auction web site. If you see this configuration, I'd recommend not buying it. The water is alreeadt as clean as the misconfigured system can make it after the DI - there is no need to run it through more carbon. The other thing you'll see on most of these systems is horizontal DI stages. Again - if you see this, its a sign of a poorly configured system.btw: can you comment on the use of the typical final stage of a '5 stage' filter, isnt that a carbon filter?
There is more to correct, but the bold section is completely wrong. Miss information is damaging to the community, let's not spread it.
Carbon removes chlorine which protects the membrane making it a critical component of any RO/DI system.
Ok, I just received my BRS 5 stage filter replacement that everyone was recommending (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store...5-stage-standard-replacement-filter-kit.html#) I'm not sure if they messed up my order, but the link shows I was supposed to get a .01 micron carbon block but I didnt get one.
Here's what I got.
1-Matrikx CTO plus 0.6 micron
1-5 micron
1-purtrex 05 micron
1-color changing di resin
My question is, if I am not supposed to put the DI resin before the RO membrane, shouldnt there be one more micron filter?
There is 4 canisters below the ro membrane, so If I don't put DI resin in the fourth...what goes in it? Thanks.
Use this approach of decreasing pore size on successive filters only for sediment filters, not carbon filters
DI AFTER the membrane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Probably that fourth canister is plumbed post-membrane, but only you can confirm or deny that.