RO/DI recommendation?

Mountain_Nerd

New member
I'm looking to get an RO/DI in the next few weeks and have noticed that the prices vary considerably. I'm guessing it has a lot to do with options (and marketing!). I'm FOWLR right now, but I'd like to get some softies in my 55 gal, so water quality will need to improve a bit.

Can anyone make a recommendation for a decent "starter" RO/DI unit.

Thanks.
 
i have the typhoon III from air water ice. many others here have it as well, great unit and a good price.
 
I really like my dual home/reef unit 75 gpd from airwaterice.
I get around 1-2Gallon of RODI water in a miniute from the 3.7gallon reservoir tank.
 
My Kent system as been great:

134499RO_Filter.jpg


Kent Marine 60 GPD RO Filter- NO Problems, I love it. Membrane like two years old and just tested Phsphates last month at ZERO :) Carl
 
Check out the systems from The Filter Guys (RC sponser). I have ordered from them twice now (refills for cartriges) and they have provided excellent customer service each time, most specifically taking the time to ask what my needs and wants were and not just taking an order.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8641682#post8641682 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Doubledown
Check out the systems from The Filter Guys (RC sponser). I have ordered from them twice now (refills for cartriges) and they have provided excellent customer service each time, most specifically taking the time to ask what my needs and wants were and not just taking an order.

If I could do it over I would go with these guys. I have the Typhoon III but have recently heard horror stories regarding Air Water & Ice and their "customer service".
I plan on getting all of my future RO supplies from The Filter Guys.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8640359#post8640359 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MrMexReefer
Kmiec, how much does that unit cost??

I think it was around $250.00 4 yrs ago or so. Optional Water tap to tee in before DI for kitchen sink for like $50 or so.
 
Well far as the customer service with Air Water Ice.. I guess its like somebody told in me another post, its prob luck of the draw...

I've had very good experience with them, I had a Auto float switch go bad and they sent me a new one for free...

Both companies have a lot of positive feedback.

I think where u'll get a lot of regrets is people who get units off ebay for dirt cheap.
 
OK... gotcha. No ebay cheapies... Air Water Ice and Filter Guys are good sources (looks like the prices are similar too). I can't see myself dropping the green for one of the Kent units -- that's just too rich for my starter budget.

Are there any "gotta have it" options? I'm guessing a 4-stage (RO only, no DI) is not a good choice for the long run... any opinions?

Thanks for the help.
 
You know the person who really needs to respond to this post is AZDesertRat

He is the resident water quality expert on this board :)

I'm surprised he hasn't jumped in yet, usually every RO/DI post he helps answer. (he helped me decide which unit to buy).

But in case he doesn't, basically the ebay ones will not offer the name brand and quality filters... you'll end up having to change the filters more often, thus costing more money..

Don't quote me on this, but it is my understanding just an RO unit will not get your water 100% clean... a combination of RO and DI will, so you'll want a unit that offers both.
 
Generally with RO/DI you get what you pay for, chep units use cheap components and higher priced units (within reason)use quality components. Things to look for are Dow Filmtec 75 GPD true RO membranes. Watch out for vendors that say things like "Made with Dow materials", "Made in USA", "Better than Dow" and numerous others. Some vendors sell units with Chinese or Taiwanese knock off that are not even ANSI/NS approved for drinking water in the US. Others use 100 GPD nanofilters which are only ANSI/NSF approved for "Pool and Spa Use" and not for drinking water. Generally these are only 90% efficient instead of 98% efficient. The reason the 8% difference is important is for every 2% increase in RO efficiency your DI resin life doubles, so an 8% increase adds up to huge $$$ savings in DI cost in a very short time.
Look for units that use solid carbon blocks in a low micron range of 1 micron or less as they have the greatest chlorine and volatile chemical adsorption. Some vendors use blocks of unknown micron size which is a red flag, or they use cheap granular activated carbon which may only adsorb the chlorine from 100 or 200 gallons of water instead of 20,000 gallons for a 0.5 micron block.
Look for features like an inline pressure gauge and a good quality handheld TDS meter, you will need both to monitor the efficiency of your unit and help determine when things need servicing.
Most importantly look for one with a standard 10" vertical canister type DI filter as these hold 24 oz of DI resin as opposed to some e-bay type units with horizontal clear tubes that hold 6 oz of resin bobbing around in them. Vertical filters are much more efficient especially if the cartridges are hand packed so water does not channel or short circuit which is common in horizontal tubes, water is going to take the path of least resistance which means it does not come into contact with all your DI resin.

There are several vendors that are RC sponsors including www.spectrapure.com , www.thefilterguys.biz , www.purelyh2o.com and www.buckeyefieldsupply.com .
Air Water & Ice has always been good as some have already pointed out and Melev builds a pretty good unit but he does not use the Dow Filmtec membrane which I feel is better in this application.

My personal unit is the new Spectrapure 90GPD MaxCap RO/DI system which is the absolute top of the line for only $269 right now on an introductory special, it cannot be beat at any price in my book.
 
I really have not seen any hard evidence they do anything. If used properly they MAY help extend the life of the membrane but I don't know thet enough long term data has been gathered yet. Charles Mitsis at Spectrapure and I have had a couple of conversations on the subject and his take is if you use it for a minute or two just prior to shutting your unit off it may help remove any matter that has collected on the membrane during that period before it has a chance to harden or solidify. My take is by opening the flush valve you are reducing the pressure available to properly flush the membrane and there is not sufficient pressure to push through the fabric and get a good flush, but I may be wrong. I am a strong proponent of maintaining a good 4:1 waste ratio as this is the best flushing you can provide to keep the membrane clean. By having the backpressure against the membrane with the flow restrictor you have not dropped the available pressure so low where it won't properly scour and carry away any residuals.

If you make your water manually then using a flush kit is easy and can become a part of your normal routine. I have mine hooked up automated to make water on demand like most peole do with either a float valve, float switch, auto shutoff valve and/or pressure tank so I never know when it is making water and when I would need to flush. Spectrapure and other vendors do now make and sell and automated flush kit though and that may be worth trying in the future?

I guess that is a long answer to a short question!
 
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