ro replacement

mickeyray

New member
Ok so I've never had to replace my ro canisters before. Is kent membrane ok.. cuz I found a really good deal on it. and seachem micron and carbon filters.. how hard is it to change them?
 
how much is it? You can find very well priced filters and di resin from bulkreefsupply. That's where I get all my stuff.
 
Are you changing the RO cartridge or the DI resin? There is a difference. How old is the RO membrane, because that usually goes for quite some time? The DI gets exhausted much faster, and I change my prefilter at about 3 months and my carbons at 6. The prefilter gets nasty due to the well water - I should have a whole house filter but haven't gotten around to it yet.
 
I got the unit back when I got my 75 from someone else who was selling everything. I don't know how long he used it.. would it hurt to change.. should I add an extra membrane? should I change mine?
 
yeah you should probably change the membrane, considering the previous owner probably had not changed it for a while as well.
 
I would change the membrane after it starts telling you it needs it. Most membranes have a 97-99% rejection rate. This means if the incoming tap water has a TDS of 100, then the output will be at 3 (give or take). You need to know the TDS of the tap water and compare it to the TDS of the RO only water. My well is about 150-175 raw water on most days, and my RO TDS gets down to 2 if I run it for more than a few gallons (like today, it was 3 for most of the first 5 gallon bucket, but 2 for the second bucket).

If you start to see the RO output go up and stay there (you'll always have TDS creep at the start), then replace it because you'll just use the DI resin up faster.

I've had my filter for 2+ years now and use it for both the fish tanks and the drinking water. No idea how long the previous owner had the filter. RO units are generally good for 3-5 years before needing replacing under normal circumstances.

Replace it if you want the piece of mind, but test it first if you want to know what you have going on and whether it needs to be replaced. The transmission fluid in my Bronco gets changed every 30K no matter what. The RO membrane will get changed when it needs to be done and not before. I guess we all have our individual little ticks. :D
 
I feel what ur saying but.. I don't have a meter and don't feel like driving all over the state to borrow one when I can get more resin for 12 or a meter at 20... although I'm still wondering should I use this nuclear resin? should I change the top part (i'm guessing thats where the membrane goes) to one of those clear ones from reef depot? should I run 2? seeing as I'm working on this would it be stupid or that bad to run 2 membranes? Should I buy the cheap 20$ tester or go else where to get it? and all these solutions that they sell, for the ph, and the tds meters... do I need to buy extra or does it come with enough?
 
oh and has anyone used there replacement micro and carbon filters? are they any good? does it matter? and will they fit all generic ro units cuz I can't even find a name on mine?
 
I don't think you need 2 membranes. If you're gonna want to run 2 membranes you're gonna need to buy a booster pump (as most standard faucets don't give out 65psi.)

The membranes and filters are usually always a generic kind.
How many filters do you have on your RODI? (Not including the DI). And, how many GPD is your membrane rated for?
Are you running city water or well water?
 
Ok, you are talking about different things here. The resin is the DI stage and goes (generally) in a vertical housing. The horizontal housing is the RO membrane.

DI resin gets used up faster than the RO. I recently replaced mine using bulkreefsupply's nuclear color change stuff. Works fine. I paid about $20 for the resin and a refillable cartridge shipped. Now I have two cartridges and when I need to replace the resin again, it'll be like $15 shipped.

Most filters use the standard pre-filters, so any brand should be fine I'd guess. I buy bulk packs from bulkreef because I change them so often due to well water. Home Depot even carries ones that will fit, though I'm not sure if they specify the size rating on the filters since most just seem to be "whole house" type replacements.

Some have used dual DI filters in series (one after the other). I have a portable and permanent mount meter and watch the water output to be sure I don't have issues, so I have not bothered adding another DI stage. Once TDS gets to 0, the second stage does not remove any more, it's just there in case the first stage gets used up and passes some junk, the second stage will catch it.
 
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